sepulchrave

Yeah you do, you have a leak. Sounds like coolant to me. Smell it or taste it to confirm. ATF is oil so feels really oily! Power steeering fluid is also ATF, therefore oily. Engine oil is black (especially in diesels) and extra-oily.

This noise may be caused by a belt tensioner pulley bearing failing.

This is gonna sound obvious and I may be barking up the wrong tree but... Are you absolutely sure that the traction control is not causing this problem, wheelspin at low speeds is SO easy in these cars because they're really heavy and tend to squat the rear while lifting the front? Only one wheel needs to lose traction before the system starts to interfere horribly, and yours may be over zealous. The remote suspension and steering feel make it very hard to detect by the standard seat of the pants method. I have no experience with mark 2's but can you turn off or disable the TC just to be certain?

Harpster, you need to make sure your battery is fully charged, also check for wiring faults and clean up MAP and MAT sensor connectors with contact cleaner. Then reset all the faults, charge the battery (disconnecting it will reset the ECU to default settings as well). Then take it for a long enough drive to get properly warmed up and re-scan for faults. There should be fewer, although it does sound like you may need a new MAF. Your Auxiliary heater will probably also need a new glowplug as marcr suggested.

Hallelujah, another convert! :)

Look here please, there are even pictures! http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=16982

I am confused as to why you think this may be a problem since when the engine is running on LPG the mixture is NOT under the control of the ECU. Since the ECU cannot use injector pulse duration to vary the mixture dynamically, how do you expect closed loop lambda mode to make a blind bit of difference? When you're on LPG all the ECU is doing is controlling the ignition advance. In fact engines running on LPG need far more ignition advance than when running on petrol, often a quality LPG install will include an ignition advance module (interupter) to over-ride the retarded petrol setting. LPG is considerably less potent than petrol so you generally use a lot more of it, therefore MPG will always drop by around 15%, often more on cruder non-sequential injection installations. Power and torque also drops and to maintain the same progress you did on petrol means you tend to use even more fuel. LPG is great for lots of motorway miles but worse around town and on hilly 'B' roads. LPG is VERY sensitive to poor ignition systems, coil-packs, leads and plugs must all be in tip-top condition. The MAF makes a BIG difference to economy, make sure it's properly sorted. Since I have absolutely no idea what kind of system you have fitted and the information you're providing is sparse at best then these are just general guidelines really. If you'd care to elaborate I'll try and be more specific with my help.

0.7v is too high and indicates a rich mixture, conversely 0.0v is low indicating a lean condition (which you'd expect on LPG). You should be running around 0.45v at Stoich. Ignore the % reading, it's not really relevant since it's simply a rough indicator of how much free Oxygen remains in the exhaust gases (lean being a higher %).

I don't know where you're located mikej, but many places have an ASNU injector cleaning/testing machine (we do) and prices are usually quite reasonable for four standard injectors. Try your nearest Bosch approved service centre, if they don't have one they'll know where does.

Sounds like the clutch has been overheated and has warped the pressure plate, I'd get the flywheel ground as well as replacing the entire clutch (don't forget the release bearing too).

...ask a silly question: The 17's will be a noticeably harsher ride than the 16's. The 18's will be a noticeably harsher ride than the 17's What do YOU want to do? (I know, you want to pretend your lorry is a sports car and that you're not getting any older.) I would simply replace the 16's with a nicer set of 16's and continue to use the correctly load rated 16 inch tyres which are widely available. :blink:

That's the point marcr, if you haven't replaced the plugs and leads you should do that first, if the misfire persists you should replace the coilpack (if you haven't already), and finally the Lambda probe if that's still original since it's easy to check by looking to see if it's the original VAG part. The leads ALWAYS fail and are as such a consumable item which you should replace as a matter of course when you change the plugs. Dodgy plugs and leads as well as age inevitably lead to coilpack failure. Age leads to Lambda probe degradation. I have recently changed my EMS temperature sensor as well because it was so cheap and was also bound to have degraded with age. MAF will have gone by 100k and should be also be replaced if original. If the car won't start at all or cuts out and won't restart for 15 minutes when hot you need a new CPS. Batteries don't last long, and can give problems with the EMS when tired, so replace the battery if needed. That summarises the consumable components which Motronic needs to do it's job properly, since I believe the TPS and stepper alone to be highly reliable (so far). Anything else is denial, struggle at leisure with it or face it and act accordingly.

Clearly a decent remap, although I don't understand why you refer to a rolling road mk2vr6. If your engine is box standard then a generic map optimised for your particular engine is perfect and much cheaper than a dynamic remap from scratch, the closed loop lambda will have the scope to make any corrections necessary for the tiny differences between your particular PD130 (or whatever) and any other. This is why 'chiptuning' works only on standard engines. Where you DO need a rolling road is for any significant deviation from standard, i.e. hairy cams and headwork, turbo, exhaust manifolding etc. Please note I do NOT include bolt on rubbish like 'induction' kits and 'decat' systems, these are generally a very expensive way of gaining nothing more than a 'sporty' noise and more often than not they actually lose power. In the case of any 12v VR6 the ONLY mods which actually work are a big valve head pocket ported to suit (large inlets only, not exhausts) and mild duration high lift cams preferably with a high volume plenum conversion. This state of tune gives around 200 bhp with a large increase in torque from tickover upwards, which means improved fuel economy under normal driving conditions due to the substantially lighter throttle openings and ability to pull taller gears earlier. I have not bothered with a remap since the standard MAF is easily able to cope with the increase in airflow at lower rpm and the engine retains it's power peak at 5600 rpm, simply making more torque everywhere else. I can now get ~28 mpg with this spec. and overtaking/hillclimbing when laden is so much easier. I want to wrap this subject up with some simple statements of fact: 'tuning' boxes are rubbish, they deceive the ECU into doing something it shouldn't but they're cheap. A 'rechip' or 'remap' when done expertly and intelligently simply replaces the compromised manufacturers standard map with a map properly optimised for the engine, therefore they're more expensive but much more effective. Don't consider any of these things unless your standard EMS is in tip-top condition with all sensors, connectors and components in perfect working order. If anyone with a 12v VR6 is actually interested I can provide the specs. necessary for your own high torque conversion.

Good job, looks like an extremely professional install and is obviously a high quality kit. Ashtray cover is just the icing on the cake. Hideous though.......... :rolleyes:

Guys, the general consensus on this is that the water pump impellor separates from the shaft, it is impossible to detect other than by physically removing the water pump and inspecting it. It is a known and widely reported issue. A new pattern water pump with a metal impellor provides a permanent fix.

I'm guessing that one of the components you refer to is the idle control stepper motor and the other is the TPS, try disconnecting the TPS and cleaning up the contacts with some contact cleaner. I can't remember if the car will run on MAF only if a TPS signal is absent or if it's the other way around. It may be possible to remove the TPS, dismantle it and clean up the wiper contact and carbon track.

Not just a different ignition system, a completely different cylinder head, injection system and engine management system. In fact it doesn't have much in common at all, the only consolation is that the 'pencil' packs fitted to these engine are even less reliable than the old 2 way 3 pack system with leads which are fitted to our old Mark 1's. :lol:

I'm with everyone else on this one. This alarm system looks totally inappropriate for this type of vehicle. Your car has a factory fitted alarm/immobiliser which may or may not currently be working, but could easily be fixed if it ain't.

when you have a car overheating it requires carefull diagnosis, is the car overheating and then blowing out the water, or is it blowing out the water and then overheating, there is a suttle difference between the two, the first is usually blocked radiator, caused by hard water (limescale blocks up the thin tubes) the second is a head gasket or a cracked head allowing pressure in to the cooling system, thermostats do not usually stick closed, most often they open sooner than they should making the car run cooler, it is east to test a thermostst in hot water, if the bottom of your rad is cold it might be the radiator, but as always start with the cheap stuff, test the stat in boiling water. f0ster, if you had any idea what a b*****d of a job this is you'd just chuck the crappy

Dude, as I have stated numerous times reading the ECU will NOT help you isolate this fault. The entire HT circuit consisting of Sparkplugs, HT Leads and Coilpack are completely outside the ECU's sphere of diagnostics. Once the ECU sends the signal to the coilpack to fire the plugs it assumes that it's been done and that's that. The vast majority of faults the ECU can detect are simply open circuit or a resistance value lying outside reference parameters e.g. MAF, Temperature, TPS etc. these components can still be faulty in giving wrong values but if they're not out of spec then the ECU can't tell you that anything is wrong e.g. elderly Lambda probes. Replace the coilpack, I bought one of these from ebay a year or two ago and paid more than that, and it's been fine ever since. If it's the original Coilpack it'll be knackered. End of.

Ok, so it's a Galaxy and it's 'P' reg, can you tell us anything else about the vehicle please, like which engine and gearbox?

marcr, your poll is fatally flawed. I would need to tick FOUR of those boxes, I have needed all those components by now.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/IGNITION-COIL-GALAXY...86.c0.m14.l1318

Miceage, the thermostat is in a separate thermoplastic housing which is attached to the assembly (below it) which has the three sensors in it. There is a section in the FAQ relating to this I believe. It's easier to do than you'd think, but it worries me that it has taken you 2 months to fix a simple oil leak. You may be better off getting this done professionally since it won't be that expensive.

marcr you have an entirely different engine, gearbox and EMS, Stevoo's fix will not necessarily work for you. Edit: marcr, have you replaced the Coilpack, HT leads, Sparkplugs and Lambda probe with all new components?