sepulchrave

/signed That engine is toast. Sounds like it flipped a big end shell so the crank and at least one of the conrods will be wrecked, a catastrophic lubrication failure will ALWAYS get the big ends first, but every other moving part will have suffered as well and the naked eye won't tell you much about it.

/signed :lol:

Sounds like a front CV joint, get under the car and give 'em a rattle with your hand, then jack up the suspect corner and rotate the wheel by hand forward then back, you should hear the clunk if you do this, on an R plate VR6 I would have expected you to need a CV joint by now.

nope not her! she only gets told its broke then you hear a sigh as she realises her inbox is full of you lot moaning that you cant post this weekends mpg figures :lol: :lol:

Nope. Bad build quality. :(

Look here, it is a common problem: http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...amp;#entry35431

Don't have any gas in mine, it's never worked and I simply don't care enough to fix it. :(

Ok, bugzie I'll throw you a bone because I'm a nice guy... Your clutch is juddering because Mr Clutch have either NOT refaced the flywheel as they stated, or worse yet they haven't bothered to replace the pressure plate, or both. In which case they won't have renewed the release bearing or the flywheel bolts either. They are franchise cowboys, I told you not to use them, because they're a franchise they are not accountable to anyone, you might as well have used a back street garage (many of whom are actually very good). Your problems are way beyond the scope of this forum and you should seek redress through your local Trading Standards office, may I suggest you speak to them politely and respectfully. :(

I have done mine and it is a lot of work so I'm not surprised the labour charges are high. I had to remove the entire front of the car, I would imagine that the quotes will include degassing and regassing the AC as well since the AC condenser is attached to the radiator. You may have more room available under the bonnet on a 2.3 and it may be possible to take some short cuts over the work I did. It's not a particularly difficult job to do, just very time intensive. If you can't see how it can be done you probably shouldn't try tbh.

I'd leave your turbo well alone if I were you, there is nothing you can do for it anyway. You need to check out the turbo vacuum control system and check there are no leaks, that and the MAF are the usual root causes of problems like you describe.

I hate to be the one to enlighten you, but you've bought the wrong car to run on a shoestring! You will need to buy a new or secondhand pump and it's gonna get messier yet. :(

Yes, the turbo has blown. Bad luck. :(

What car do you have? :lol:

These items are controlled by relays which lurk under the dash: One for the indicators One for the Hazard lights One for the intermittant wipers plus a time delay module. Don't know about the RCL. What happened to knock out all these relays?

:lol:

Jimbo, get the local garage to do it, you obviously don't fancy it and aren't tooled up for it. GET THE STARTER MOTOR CHANGED SOMEHOW!

The 'rattling' sound you describe is probably the turbo recirc valve kicking in too early thereby denying you full boost and losing power.

...Oh, and bugzie, you are SPAMMING this forum about your bleedin' clutch and NOT taking the good advice you are given!

Yes, you must replace the spark plugs regularly in this engine. Yes, you'll almost certainly need new leads if they haven't been replaced recently. If the above doesn't fix the problem then Yes, you'll need a new coil pack as well. The cost of these parts bears no relationship to the necessity of replacing them! I wrote an extensive post on resolving this exact problem but it didn't get stickied (because it's nothing to do with diesels) , so use the search function. I predict there will be a time in the not too distant future when the vast majority of owners of older cars posting on this forum will have the VR6 petrol variant, all the other engine types having long since popped expensively. :lol:

I would certainly strongly suspect the HEGO sensor as well, you can easily replace this yourself with a decent pattern part from your local factors. With regard to service items, you should of course replace the oil, fuel and air filters and change the oil as well. But these won't be the root cause of this problem. Then you simply reset the ECU and drive the car until the ECU has learned the new lambda values.

'Worn' means what? A dual mass flywheel cannot generally be reground because that is not what is usually wrong with it, therefore you simply replace it. A conventional flywheel can and should be refaced IF it is slightly warped, surface spalling or heavily scored/ridged. This is not an expensive operation, typically about

Replace the blue one, it's very cheap, only about

Yes.

It means combustion gases being forced past the piston rings into the cylinder block thereby contaminating the oil in the sump with fuel and exhaust gas products etc. It's why the oil turns black and sludgy over time and mileage. It happens in petrol engines too but far less due to the much lower effective compression ratio.

It's contamination from blowby on old tech diesels like yours which affects the oil condition, so if you're barely using it then a time rather than mileage change is appropriate, although if you're using a quality synthetic then even that isn't really important, December 2009 will be fine in that case.