sepulchrave

I have the VR6, and I've just done the 'stat as a precaution when the housing failed, don't know if you've seen the installation but suffice to say that 'shoehorned' in does not do it justice! Ok Dingo, no offence meant but I feel that in this instance Sword is right to change the thermostat, I must admit that I didn't have any problems at all with airlocking, I think that the 2.8 is largely immune to it, dunno about the 2.3 or TDi tho' :blink: ...and yes, whiterosessom if you have the 2.8 it is the identical VW VR6 engine.

Why bother, he's boiled the 'stat and it don't work? It's a lot of work on the VR6 to fiddle about and do the job twice for no reason! Consider fitting the Neuspeed 70C 'stat, it makes the engine and oil run cooler giving slightly better performance and MPG. Get it here: http://www.awesome-gti.co.uk/shop/customer...&cat=398&page=1 Cheers.

mikej, sounds good, snoopers got it...go with the towsure.

jvernon, your second fan is not working, this is common and it means that your other fan will probably fail before long. Do a search, someone knowledgeable has already posted a fix that requires no expenditure (can't remember who or when I saw it tho') . :rolleyes:

Yes, but the Hollywood towbar bike rack needs bolt-on towball fitment to enable sandwich plate to be fitted, not swan-neck type towball! mikej do you already have the Hollywood rack? because the other type you can use is the Pendle; this will fit on swan-neck, however you cannot tow a caravan as well. May I humbly suggest that you get the ordinary Hollywood 4-bike rack and then just fit it to the caravan! ;) In order to provide the correct answer first one must READ THE QUESTION :rolleyes:

Can anyone knowledgeable confirm the rumour that the MAF element from a Mark IV 2.0 Golf is the same as fitted to my VR6, I know that the housings are different? 'Apparently' all OBDII VR6's (12V and 24V) use the same Bosch MAF element. Useful commentary appreciated, please.

Hi p3pp3, just go through and clear all your codes, then restart your engine and rescan. How many do you actually have now? Many of them are caused by poor battery condition i.e. during the winter, and you may have had a low coolant incident at some point. However, your MAF is almost certainly feeling the icy grip of the grim reaper (extreme old age!), and your aircon may need re-gassing (leak) or the receiver/dryer (again, pre-senility) and Hi/Lo pressure switch may need replacement. I'd be surprised if that many remain, however the main thing is DON'T PANIC and take it to a dealer! They'll do more harm than good.

stutvt, since you don't have VAG-COM have you tried re-booting the ECU and seeing if the fault clears (disconnect the battery for 10 mins, make sure you have your radio code first tho'). VAG-COM usually indicates A/C Hi/Lo pressure switch when interrogated anyway. Which could just mean low gas, as already stated.

Well my mine has similar problems which VAG-COM says is down to the MAF breaking down, I've disconnected the MAF and the misfire has cleared, I think that it's safe to say that the 10 year old MAF has about had it. I'm gonna fit a new one anyway, let you know the results. BTW can anyone knowledgeable confirm the rumour that the MAF element from a Mark IV 2.0 Golf is the same as fitted to my VR6 (I know that the housings are different)? Apparently all OBDII VR6's (12V and 24V) use the same Bosch MAF element.

More realistic to use all that positive energy and enthusiasm to get a promotion/new job with a pay rise to cover the fuel costs! :rolleyes:

Yes, you can leave it all gassed up, the flexi hoses are long enough. Of course if you can find some short cuts then be my guest, I went all out because I didn't know what the problem was until I'd stripped everything back to get a good look. Someone here suggested that removing the coil-pack was good enough to get it off from above, although I doubt it would help with the front lateral rigid hose connection. At least doing it this way meant I kept all the skin on my knuckles, and more importantly it enabled me to clean the mating block face and surrounding area very thoroughly before re-fitting the new components. I had no spare parts at the end, and neither will you! :rolleyes:

Death by RadWeld? :P

No. (OP)

No. (OP)

Yes, 1) Headlamp washer covers unclip. 2) Remove both Indicators, just loosen bolts enough to slide 'em out. 3) Front grill off: 2 screws, 2 press clips at top. (mind the two hidden clips right by the headlamp washers), 7mm headed bolt behind each indicator. 4) Headlamps out: 4 torx each. Don't lose the seal spacers when disconnecting the multiplugs. 5) Front number plate off: 2 torx behind. 6) Front bumper cover off: 3 torx screws into each arch liner, 3 below valance. disconnect foglamps each side watch the seal spacers again. 7) Front impact absorber off: 4 torx bolts. 8) Unbolt bonnet catch and rad fan stay top bolt, tuck catch back by the MAF somewhere, leave release cable attached. 9) Unplug external temp. sender, clear loom. 10) Remove plastic panel stay each side from front wing inner: pull out spacers using pliers (x4) compress clips one at a time, pop, pop, pop, pop. 11) Unbolt washer bottle from front panel: 8mm bolt, unscrew fan control module: 2 x P3 machine screws, tuck away by battery (which you already disconnected of course!) 12) Remove plastic vanity partitions around battery/ expansion tank area. 13) Remove rad top hose (leave bottom on), unbolt front panel. 14) Remove air intake silencer. 15) Lift entire front panel c/w rad, fans and heat exchanger about six inches to get airbox assembly to clear (surprisingly heavy). Leave it resting in a position well forward and hanging down. 16) Remove starter motor top nut and the loom support attached to it. 17) Remove 2 x 5 mm allen bolts holding front lateral rigid (plastic!) cooling pipe and ease away from the plastic lego horror block. 18) remove all three sensor multi-ways: brown, blue, yellow. 19) Now remove the two rad hoses where they meet the lego block (rear is awkward since they are siamese moulded) 20) remove all three 5mm allen bolts holding lego to engine (only two will be visible unless you have an eye on the end of your index finger!), the third is a short one too, so don't drop it! 21) remove the object of your loathing (will require some nifty handling) and examine at leisure. 22) Now would be a good time to replace your reversing sensor too, since this is your only chance to view it with the naked eye!!!! Get your Maglite, can you see it? The leak will likely be cracking of the thermoplastic around the moulded-in steel inserts where the bolts go through. Although the seal may also have failed, the inner seal retaining land on mine had gone AWOL causing the seal to be pulled into the housing as the engine cooled; this caused the seal to stretch and deform worsening the problem dramatically. It is likely that the cracking causes minor but invisible coolant loss over time which only becomes noticeable when the seal finally fails. As to cause, it's caused by the blasted component being made of poxy thermoplastic which eventually becomes brittle with age! I must admit that I replaced the thermostat with a Neuspeed 70C item, and this has usefully lowered everyday running temperatures together with lowered oil temps. Get one here: http://www.awesome-gti.co.uk/shop/customer...&cat=398&page=1 Best of British Old Chap, when it's all over console yourself: JUST IMAGINE WHAT THE DEALER WOULD'VE CHARGED YOU! :P

I think I know what this is. VW Part number is 021 121 117A, cost