sepulchrave

Is that the place down the side of the Goldstone Retail Park? If so they are expensive but can usually accurately diagnose the fault, although the stock solution seems to be 'you need a new gearbox mate'.

I am unclear whether Becki has a 12v or 24v VR6, how old it is and how far its travelled. On the 12v VR6 the MAF is NOT the dominant factor as it is on TDI's, as Tiny states the TPS is far more important although this is much more reliable. The Lambda probe and Ignition components are the most important parts if you have a 12v VR6. The MAF will pick up a few MPG and disconnecting it will richen the mixture enough to encourage a weak ignition system into performing better.

This is the correct answer, you have bought the wrong pump. All Gals are multipoint which all need 3 bar pumps.

:lol: ;) :wacko:

They work fine, just not for very long!

Isn't the MAP sensor part of the dreaded MAF on these donkeys? Sounds like classic TDi MAF problems to me. Have you unplugged the MAF and tried the car?

Dude, whatever. ;)

Try this: http://www.ignitioncarparts.co.uk/detailsp...rchStr=PDTS0068 For

Cheers for the lecture turk90210 (Captain Obvious), I don't care if you're right or not. I'm trying to help westie with THIS engine. Keep your advice specific please rather than muddying the waters! When my CPS went down it behaved EXACTLY like this, intermittant cutting out when warm, wouldn't restart for 15 minutes, then refusing to start until stone cold, then refusing to start at all. Obviously mine is a petrol engine so I got no spark OR fuel. When I tested the sensor it seemed to work fine because it had cooled down enough to give a reading, I wasted A LOT of time because of this. I believe westie has a dodgy CPS, but until he starts changing the obvious parts then this problem is NOT going to solve itself. The situation is not helped by westies newness to matters mechanical, and unless he throws money at a garage or a mobile mechanic he's gotta fix it himself. In fact it's going to be impossible to repair WITHOUT spending any money since something has clearly failed. Take my hand and walk tthrough the problem with me: The glowplug light sounds like a red herring since the car has a history of playing up when warm and I'm quite sure Green Flag Man would have have checked that the glowplugs were lighting. So it's not that. The immobiliser cuts the fuel supply so Green Flag Man would have seen NO fuel when he cracked the injectors. Therefore it's not the immobiliser. Timing issues are not intermittant, they creep up on you then get worse. Therefore it's not likely to be timing. Which leaves sensors, right back where we started. If westie replaces the CPS and it ISN'T that then it's almost certainly the Cam sensor. I'm afraid I don't have any machine empathy mind powers which will operate over distances greater than 3 feet, and I generally still need my eyes, hands and some tools to augment these abilities.

banjaxed, it is possible that your dual mass flywheel has been replaced in the wrong position which could account for the slight thumping noise, a worn valve can give those symptoms on a PETROL engine but not on a turbodiesel. stairforce, your problem is almost certainly a leaking hydraulic lifter, if you can't live with it then you can replace them all but it's probably not worth it. Occasionally there is a blockage in the oilway feeding the lifter and a flush might clear it but I wouldn't hold your breath.

Symptoms are camlobe and cam follower wear leading to a noisier top end, if you inspect it visually you'll see a lot of scoring on these surfaces and on the rollers fitted to the PD rocker arms. If the components have not yet failed then renewing the cam and followers as a set will remedy this.

Strictly pre 1980 for me thanks (although I concede BIB was okayish).

sadiq, find where the loom becomes accessible inside the car (behind the dash or side footwell trim) then simply splice a new longer piece of cable on, thread it through the pillar and repair it that way. :lol:

You're very welcome ant, glad I could be of some help. :lol:

westie, Don't get down about it, stop flattening the battery and buy a CPS from GSF or Euro carparts, even your local factors should do a pattern one. Once you have the new part in your hand you'll know exactly what to look for, the CPS is nearly always at the gearbox end of an engine because it counts teeth on a wheel which is attached to the end of the crankshaft, so look for it down there somewhere, it'll have a two-pin connector plugged into it. It is held in place by one allen screw and has a rubber 'O' ring fitted to stop oil getting past, don't forget to swap it over to the new one. It is just about the only thing which will completely stop a modern ECU controlled engine dead, and is 99% likely to be your problem. You could have had it delivered today and fitted it 5 minutes later, what are you waiting for?

Nasty case of dyscalculia there, could have wrecked your nice PD engine. Buy the correct grade of oil and all will be fine, there is loads of rubbish talked about this brand or that brand, generally the more people spend the more excited they get about the marketing blurb. I'll second Seatkid and recommend Millers XFE-PD oils, they're terrific for quality and value.

Please see my post on your other thread for a source for buying the plug(s) you need, they are very nice and helpful people and I have dealt with them many times. They will send the plug to you for next day delivery and it will come. Obviously you'll have to wait until Monday to speak to them, then you can buy a new pencil pack from your nearest dealer and order some nice sparkplugs and repair your car. Try and relax until tomorrow, panic will achieve nothing. Your car will be fine on five cylinders until you get the parts in hand.

I'm afraid that it is the lack of quality in the construction of the manufacturers pencilpack which is the problem. The only thing you can do is to make sure your sparkplugs are renewed and I suggest NGK Iridium plugs since they actually work the coils less than some other plugs and do not deteriorate as fast as they age. You can easily buy new plugs online, try here: http://www.simtekuk.co.uk Good luck.

Sounds like you have an air leak somewhere after the MAF, check all the intake trunking, this can split.

If it slips it's fuct. :13:

Yeah, particularly on VR6's, thats a tight fit in there! I find WD40 excellent for washing the grease out of bearings and stripping other lubricants from parts leaving only a thin water repellant film behind. WD40 apparently means Water Dispersal for 40 days, so not even long enough to protect against an English summer these days! I use it for preventing tools/machines from surface rusting when laid up, but wouldn't use it anywhere else to be honest. Contact cleaner is what you want for all electrical components including ignition parts.

:)

No, that is probably because of the faulty temperature distribution flap listed above. Sounds like a couple of your flap motors may be jammed or U/S. Edit: The diagnostic trouble code (DTC) memory fault in the climatronic is perplexing and may be related, does your climatronic display give any clues?

Jesus, I said taste it, not drink it Captain Sensible! We are grown ups you know, you can quit the nannying, the kids are in bed not feeding glycol to household pets (Soviet pilots used to like Glycol apparently).

Bah, stop farting about taking the car to bits and give it a sniff, then taste it. Yum Yum. My daughter spilt sbout 3 litres of ATF on my shed floor recently and I can confirm that it's not really very watery although it was red. Smelt oily too.