sepulchrave

errrr, no it's not. It's down on the side of the engine block just above the bellhousing. There are three coolant sensors in a row and the actual thermostat housing is just below this held on with a couple of allen screws. It's a bit tight in there so you may need to remove the entire multipart thermoplastic assembly if it leaks (which it will).

...and my 1993 T4 Transporter has solid discs, not vented, and I'm certain that the calipers are different because the pads don't even look similar. Otherwise you're really onto something there! :wacko:

You won't need a manual bramley, they really don't go wrong much and everyone here will be able to tell you how to fix the stuff that does go wrong (electronics and HT mainly). :ph34r:

Well, It looks like the fault was with the crank position or engine speed sensor as VAG-COM reported. My sensor was Bosch part number 0 261 210 108 which has been superseded by 0 261 210 107. Easy replacement from under the front of the car using an Intermotor pattern part: Intermotor Part number 18791 -

Thanks for the tips guys, I had noticed that the multi-way connector was stained by water from the failed thermostat housing, although I replaced that a long time ago. I will check that corrosion has not affected the connections inside. The engine will not start if the speed sensor fault is showing, I believe that the PCM cuts the engine as soon as it detects this fault to prevent possible engine damage and that this is the reason the car cuts out. I guess that the speed sensor is some form of hall effect trigger (basically a transistor if memory serves) which is a semiconductor. Probably about

After three years of superb reliability I have finally come up against something new. The engine will stop immediately and completely at random intervals. When I did a VAG-COM autoscan I had a whole plethora of faults never seen before: Address 01 ------------------------------------------------------- Controller: 021 906 256 Q Component: MOTOR PMC HS

Good answer wolfie, I didn't bother to ask why galaxy99 would want a crippled VR6 :rolleyes: If you like the noise, get a VR6, fit a nice ProjectZwo exhaust and a BMC carbon airbox. I guarantee you that it'll sound more like a Porsche Carrera on full chat (won't bloody go like one tho'). Enjoy. ;)

Maybe, the VR5 unit is basically a cut down VR6 and almost certainly fits the same gearbox and electronic systems. I think you might have to mod the engine mounts though.

...the turbo you say? Boy, that's a surprise, I didn't expect that! Shouldn't you now change your name to lyDENIAL :)

danny, your faith in the auto electrician is touching, have you checked the immobiliser? I still think there is a problem with the HT circuit but I'm scared to say anything (( :lol: ))

In most cases the thermostat only bypasses coolant flow through the cylinder head, since this is at the top of the engine sludge does not usually form there. So generally speaking it doesn't matter. Disconnect the bottom hose from the radiator shove the hosepipe up it and watch the flavour flood out! :wub:

Yes, the engine will com out with the gearbox if you rip the cars face off (as the breaker suggested), and yes a standard engine hoist is fine. If you have limited tools and space then I think this job is beyond you. I would use a garage which works on taxi's, since the Gal is widely used and the mechanics know it well, I would have thought you could get a guaranteed recon lump for not much more than

..coil pack it is then! :(

Tiny, you really should know better than to recommend putting any aftermarket sludge in your Oil. DO NOT USE ANY ADDITIVES, EVER! DaveM, stop worrying about it and USE the car! :(

...More likely to be the leads breaking down. At least you know what to ask Santa for. :)

No, you won't get a silicone hose set to fit this car. Your best bet is to simply repair the hose where it is split (usually at the bottom where the clip seats) just splice in a new generic piece of the same bore using a brass coupler with a pair of jubilees.

Don't kid yourself dipso YOU KNOW it's been the thermostat housing all along, you just couldn't be bothered to change it! :D

...Sounds like the plug you just pulled is misfiring if it's that wet! I simply cannot think of any mechanism which could cause such significant overfuelling without the ECU being aware of it and going to failsafe mapping. The only unmonitored system is on the HT side, everything else is under ECU control. Are you absolutely certain that ALL your HT leads and Spark plugs are 100% good. I say this because a mate of mine had an Astra which came back from service with a misfire, this turned out to be one of the brand new spark plugs which had a cracked insulator below the electrode!

...100K! CV fo'shizzle. OK? :)

...Or you could just drop all the coolant and flush and refill with whatever you like (Ribena is my favourite, yum yum) :)

...Got mine on, it's the CV joint! :)

SOMETHING EXPENSIVE HAS BROKEN, YOU NEED A VW SPECIALIST QUICK! :) (Please don't shout, it's considered rude.) We won't be able to fix this for you, it sounds like one of the driveshafts has failed (CV joint probably). Get under the car and give 'em a shake. If it rattles it's shot.

You would expect that since THE EXHAUST PIPE is at the back of the car! :D Turbo's dead for sure, bearing failure rapidly followed by oil seal failure possibly even shaft failure. Have you checked the oil? Probably nothing to do with the remap....it happens. :lol:

Relay 30, do a search.

Obvious I know, but have you tried VW and SEAT dealers? Any auto inner joint for Mark I should fit, certainly the manuals are all the same, I've got a complete VW genuine 2.0 N/S driveshaft fitted to my VR6 (easier than replacing the CV joint).