sepulchrave

It's generally better to crimp the terminal on to freshly fluxed copper then run solder into the whole crimped assembly as well to remove any electrical resistance remaining, this constitutes a permanent repair.

Oh well that's ok then, should be loads of them lying about.... :rolleyes:

You could try a local Ford or VW dealer... Dunno how much it'll cost but it certainly beats walking to the bus stop! Perhaps you could make one from some baling twine and clothes pegs :(

Sounds like the slave cylinder has packed up, apparently they all do eventually.

Any oil loss at all? If not, are you sure that your booster heater isn't playing up?

I think there are two different oil pressure switches, you'll have to pull the plugs to find out which one is malfunctioning since they look the same. The audible alarm is from the pressure switch which functions only after the engine is running, the other pressure switch only puts the red light on the dash which goes out when you crank the engine. I used to occasionally and briefly get the oil light and buzzer in my 16 valve Golf during very hard cornering which was caused by oil surge. If you want to be sure that your oil pump is functioning properly you can look in the cam cover, if it's dry in there then you have a serious problem, otherwise you don't and it's perfectly safe to drive it.

I would say it's the same gearbox although it may have a slightly lower final drive ratio than the lighter Golfs and Passats (Passat much more likely to be the same gearbox). You can get the gearbox code off the casting and compare it to others. You can put thicker oil in it to quieten it down while you find another 'box.

Open loop fuel system fault suggests the Lambda probe has gone wrong and is overleaning the mixture. You say you've tested the O2 sensor, how exactly? Disconnect the Lambda probe completely and see if its any better.

Disconnect the oil pressure switch to stop the light and alarm from sounding or take the switch out and give it a good clean. If there is something else wrong with it, it's not going to be something you can easily fix in the next couple of days. Did you use a very thin grade of oil in a very worn engine when you changed it, if so then chuck in some cheap thick 20W50 and the light should stay off. You don't mention engine type or mileage which would help.

Most of those codes will be thrown by running with a bad battery, I wouldn't worry too much, servisol is always a good idea on aging connectors anyway. If you disconnect the new battery and touch the terminals together you can hard reset the ECU and the remaining fault should then clear as well.

This is normal. All alternators cut in above tickover. I strongly suspect you have a dodgy throttle position sensor, stepper motor or connection, check the multiplug and loom to the throttle body. VAG-COM will positively identify the fault.

PTFE Tape is cheaper, and you won't find it mentioned in a manual. ;)

It IS a very thermally efficient engine (all Diesels are), but the major factor in cold warmup is that there are two large heater matrices trying to fill a very large van sized interior with warm air and consequently acting just like extra radiators, hence the auxilliary heater to boost heat flow into the system during warmup. This issue is particular to large Diesel MPV's. Minibuses and Coaches have it even tougher. If you removed both heater matrices and the associated pipework then warmup would happen very quickly since the radiator is sized to suit the engines operating charactreristics independently of the passenger heating system.

Strong words indeed..... However, I maintain that the most significant factor in engine wear characteristics is the temperature, pressure and condition of the oil since metal to metal contact does not occur. The ambient temperature of the large lumps of metal in which the moving components are housed is frankly of little importance. I'd be EXTREMELY surprised if mean combustion chamber temperature values deviated significantly from the norm, after all it's only really the pistons which expand when hot which is why high mileage engines can burn oil when cold, I don't see how wear can be an issue because these clearances are larger for longer. Fast warmup is desirable from the viewpoint of passenger comfort and emissions/fuel consumption, but as long as you have good oil pressure available quickly then wear will really not be an issue. A Doctorate simply means you know a staggering amount about a tiny and possibly obscure area loosely grouped under the umbrella of ENGINEERING, my mate also has a PhD in engineering from Strathclyde University and his thesis was about the work of John Logie Baird, an area which most reasonable people would call HISTORY. So calm down Mirez and think it through before deriding others contributions and watch your spelling or this could get bloody! I'm with RADIOTWO and SK for now, but I know there's more....

Passat, Golf, Transporter Van have the same 174PS 2.8 VR6 engine, the earlier Golfs and Corrados have a mechanically identical engine but with a distributor fitted instead of a coil pack. Do you really need a manual for it, there are no cambelts or any other adjustments to worry about, you just change the oil and filter and drive it until dead (~200k or more).

1996 VR6 Clonk = Outer CV Joint(s).

Fuel filter will not be the answer although you should probably change it. I'm afraid your coilpack may be starting to break down, since I assume you changed the leads as a set. You may be able to remove the coilpack and thoroughly dry it in a low oven before re-sealing it with epoxy, better to get a new one TBH.

It is factory installed from beneath but I doubt you have access to a four poster with overhead hoist, so yes.

Yes.

You are correct, your TDi does not have ISV or ICV. You'll be deluged with a bewildering array of possible solutions, but to eliminate the MAF you simply unplug it and run it without.

<_< You don't need to remove the rear quarter panel.

Sounds like an air leak or a 'gunged' (technical term) up body/ISV. Clean up and check for air leaks with soapy water spray. Clearly the stepper motor is trying to compensate but the problem lies outside reasonable parameters, your Uncles reader will definitely throw a fault up.

You need to ensure you have the correct version of VAG-COM, it's an older version which works properly with the cheap ebay leads, can't remember which version because it's on my lappy which I left at work.

The sensor you seek is under the top of the front panel next to the offside headlight, if you lift the offside headlamp bulb access cover off you should see a wire near where the bonnet release cable goes under the front panel. A low battery voltage can cause climatronic to play up so this as well as resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery.

Replace the caliper. That's it. Don't wait to see if it gets worse. The damn thing weighs nearly 2 tons and those are YOUR kids in the back. You'll kill EVERYONE if you hit another vehicle. I'm amazed you even need to ask!