viperclive

Cheers for that it's what I've been waiting to hear, I hate wasting dosh when there's no need.

The kit you need is no 380475080512 and is on offer at Mo on Ebay for 14.43 free post, bought one in Feb to do my brakes, good buy.

You now have to chase that bubble now it's moved out of the abs manifold, I always use a length of clear hose on bleed nipple, that way when bleeding you can detect air bubbles coming out of system.

Cheers for that, I sent you a reply to your email, fraid mine will have to wait a while as I've just paid 136.00 for 3 part clutch kit and 227.00 for labour to fit, I did look at doing it myself but thought stuff that!! Good price for borg n beck kit though for mk1 2.3 97 reg.

Hate to say it but check wiring in rubber umbilical RHS of rear door, very common fault of wires breaking, plenty on here how to repair.

Hi, that's a job I've been putting off for ages, could you please give feedback, also where did you get part from and how much?

Not sure, maybe one of the other experts can help there? If not a visit to a breakers yard!

Sounds to me like you need to remove inner plastic trim on door and investigate wiper linkage for worn components, thus causing over run on blades.

Hi Dave I also have 97 2.3 gia X, when I bought her the battery was loose and had been sliding side to side, this had messed up the small wires on battery terminals, I had poor connectors on end of wires and had to re-solder them, even lost window wipers because terminal on battery had come loose, so your problem could be one of the terminals.

I would get the tracking done, be on the safe side tyres are expensive, it doesn't take long to rip a Tyre to shreds, or two!!

Mine is on top of tunnel, just infront of ashtray bolted to top of tunnel but hidden by plastic moulding.

If you've got air have you one of those air saws, cos with car sat normal you should be able to saw under top hat n cut the damn thing off, or a hack saw!

Don't forget the gator rhs on rear door!

My sentiments exactly, nice set of shiny alloys look much nicer.

An idea! Having repaired and replaced all the wires within the rear boot, and joining them inside rear right hand pillar under trim, I would remove trim find the wire coloured sw/b1, which is blue/black, pick up a + supply (from rear cig lighter), connect to wire mentioned, if wiring in rubber boot is ok and fitting has an earth they should light, if they do and stay lit with door being opened and closed then you can concentrate all your attention to switch. If no light then no earth or broken wire in boot.

I had a problem with leads that supply coils, the insulation had cracked up and I had to replace them and put extra insulation on them, also look at state of insulation on wires in box above injectors as mine was a mess

Got a large one at work!!! And a mate who's a chinook pilot if you need a lift!!

Sorry seatkid my phone changed your name!!! Lol

I would agree with seafood, just changed one of mine after not using car for two days when starting her up sounded as rough as hell until she warmed up, quick coil pack change and now sounds sweet, I also use plugs that kick out three Sparks each beat, much more efficient, NGK BKUR5ET, £2.75EA from ebay.

That's one of the jobs I want to do in the near future, I want to replace both drive shafts, got some play and usual clicking from CV joints when turning hard, got both earmarked on Ebay approx 37 n 47 each, also both rear shocks, then got the clock spring to do, sounds a lot of work but I intend to keep her for many years to come, had Lpg conversion done about 5 yrs ago so very cheap to run, equates to 60 mpg, anyway good luck with shafts.

Try Silverlake car parts in botly Hampshire, they are on the internet and they are huge, got alsorts from them and they dispatch spares all over uk and further.

Shame your not closer to me, I'm a bit of a Fred dibner, help to maintain a super sentinel steam waggon and we have a cracking workshop where I do my car maint, we have a massive bearing press that would get the bugger out, anyway good luck.

Looking at the circuit diagrams that seatkid added, the first one shows that fuse 19 supplies side lights, yours don't work, check wiring at side lights, take lamps out and check if they are ok, with all those out and disconnected try a new fuse, if it oops I would suggest it will be heated rear window, wiring in rubber boot shorting, well that should keep you busy for Sunday lol.

Do you have a vice on a bench, or very sturdy object, lay wishbone across jaws of vice or sturdy object, take nut off, and with a big lump hammer strike down hard on top of threaded part of ball joint thus whacking it out of wishbone.

Never used one to do mine, just wellied em up tight with big ring spanner, after coppercote on the thread of course.