BrianH

It might be best to try contacting ferrodo. Alternatively buy another set and compare? http://www.ferodo.com/en-gb/ToolsServices/Pages/AntiCounterfeit.aspx < this is what they provide, all seems to be packaging related to me. NGK spark plugs also have a chinese copy problem.... Why do you think they might be fake though?

If its clean unless you have clean water in the coolant then it shouldn't be the heater matrix. I'd have a look behind the bulkhead to see if the scuttle drains are blocked (likly if you park under trees etc). It could be condensation if the air con actually works, but there should be a drain pipe to cope with that (which may be blocked). However its rare the galaxy aircon seems to work from what others say here....

I don't know enough to state this for sure, but its very possible that the alarm and immobilisers are separate systems. To compound the problem it seems some of the manuals/lists available of the fuses are wrong as well (eg mine has the central locking on fuse 19. The manual that came with it shows something completely different. Now your in definitely start looking at the wiring as the first thing, The remote locking kit once you get the rest of the locking working acceptably is a good idea, although it would be sensible to ensure you can still open at least one of the doors with a key (to cover battery going flat etc). The immoboliser only works off the pats chip inside the key - all cars made for some time now need to have this (I think since around 1998)

The only other thing i can think of assuming it isn't leaking from the heater (which provided you have antifreeze in the cooling system has a distinctive smell) is if its leaking round the windscreen. Has the screen ever been replaced? Otherwise may be time to investigate with a helper and a hosepipe to see where it seems to get in from (work from the bottom upwards slowly till you see more water appearing).

could be a short in the wires if its the locking etc effected (the boot gaiter would be suspect for this) - best bet to find out what it controls is pull the relay out of the socket and see what doesn't work?

Tried chekcing the rear washer pipe? it joins at the edge of passenger footwell.

When you say it works does it stop when its fully open? or does it appear to keep going? The suggestion by SilverBeast makes sense - you can disconnect the other doors by turning the connector around which will narrow down the problem somewhat. Don't rule out the boot gaiter just because it doesn't appear to make any sense either....

under the passenger seat as far as i know? If you have the top end booster heater system i think its controlled from the clock?

Its possible that the wires in another door may be causing your issue (it seems you have only looked at the drivers door?) They all suffer the same problem just the drivers door will fail first as its used most often. The ones in the boot gaiter are known to cause all manner of weird problems elsewhere. Do you get a reaction from the passenger door switch? The motor is shown on the drivers door as being connected to silver/green 0.5 - runs to sunroof (probabbly not there or doing anything relevent) red/yellow 2.5 this is the feed from fuse F71 (30a) (this is usually one of the two to break as its thicker wire) brown/blue 0.5 connects to switch Grey/Red 0.5 this goes back to the central junction box not clear what it does exactly but its connected to an transistor (would guess its to do with stopping the window moving at end of travel?) Green/Red 0.5 Same as above connected to other side of transistor Black/Grey 0.5 Feed from fuse f2 (10a) Brown/White 0.5 goes back to fuse f55 (5a) Brown 0.5 Return to ground (from memory i found this was actually 2.5 cable not the 0.5 shown) Also likly to snap if thats the case) Goes to the earth point under drivers seat. Not sure if that will help you, but I'd suggest checking the 3 fuses and the wires and go from there.

Theres mention of a relay under the front right seat in the sharan fitting manual that says the following "Relay locations on additional relay carrier under front right seat:

If you can get to the battery without further damage its worth a try. IMO the galaxy door locks are awful. The spinning round will be due to the paddle bit on the back snapping off - lock repair kits can be found on ebay to fix that if you can get the damn thing to open in the first place. Do you have any sort of remote locking on your keys? if so it might be worth trying changing the battery in that first (take the key to somewhere you can get a battery from and keep the battery out for as short a time as possible then try to see if it will operate the locks after). Otherwise it looks like your down to trying to gain entry to the inside of the car and working from there. Fuse 19 on mine removes the power from the central locking btw so if you can get inside that might be a good place to start. the lock repair kit looks either like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-GENUINE-GALAXY-SHARAN-ALHAMBRA-DOOR-LOCK-REPAIR-KIT-/140480263231?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20b546b43f or this (don't buy this specific one its priced stupidly for some reason) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-GENUINE-GALAXY-SHARAN-ALHAMBRA-DOOR-LOCK-REPAIR-KIT-/130456745529?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AGalaxy&hash=item1e5fd3f639 They are a dire design as I've come across similar on other cars with the same issue. It seems a common VW issue..... The original issue i'd suspect is down to broken wires in the door loom (another common issue).

have a read of this post http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php/topic/26444-cant-open-my-drivers-door-door-catch-possibly-stuck-on/

Does the fan actually come on (the one behind the radiator?) If its not that then either the cooling system could be full of crud and needing flushing, or the thermostat isn't opening at the right temp. Or its leaking somewhere and not ending up with enough coolant in the system. Also if your topping up with water only this will dilute the coolant which isn't a good thing....

Are you actually losing any water from the cooling system? or seeing signs of it showing up elsewhere?

It might help to compare it to the etis listing > http://www.etis.ford.com/ (click vehicle and enter the vin it should tell you more info on it).

Sounds like the relay 30 issue if its intermittent. and that does cause different behavior of the led on the door. For the cost of it (or effort with a soldering iron) its worth ruling it out. Plenty of info on here regards relay 30 as well.

Some versions of vcds do need payment to unlock certain functions, but the airbag module is fine in vcds lite which you can get from ross tech > http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/download/ You also need a suitable cable - one that says its a vag-com cable is ok > This one for example http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAG-GROUP-USB-COM-PORT-OBD2-II-KKL-ECU-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-LEAD-WORK-VCDS-LITE-409-/271036790042 Once you get hold of the software/cable post back if you still have issues. but suggest starting a new post for that issue as it will get too mixed up with this one otherwise.

Once the airbag light comes on you need to reset it - vcds with a suitable cable works ok for this. If it still stays on then it could well be your clock spring thats gone, but you can confirm which airbag is causing the problem with vcds either way.

Hard to say - but thats the point of getting a quote. if you know whats involved you should have an idea if the quote is reasonable or not!

If the window has stopped working that wire has probabbly come apart again. I suspect if you can get to it somewhere and reconnect it you should be able to get the door lock working though there is no guarantee. Start by seeing if you can find another door card for the door - if you can then hacking it off becomes an option. Even if you get the card its going to make it cheaper to get someone else to deal with it than if they have to get one for you. Its going to be difficult though as the cables will be obscured by the dash. from what you describe the dead lock seems to be active which stops the internal handle unlocking the door -- i've seen this on other cars but not the galaxy so maybe someone else can confirm it has one? If so the only options really are get the catch working again, or break the catch off. You could try the rac but tbh since you can get into the car i suspect they will be limited to taking you to a garage to get it sorted.

The door latch is held in place by 3 screws on the side of the door (only accessible when the door is open). Your best bet might be to try and remove the door card (afaik its held with a single screw near the door handle on the inside) and pop the rest of the clips off (they are bound to break so be prepared to replace some of them if you decide to go down this route). I suspect whats happened is the door lock has got itself into the deadlock setting and now you can't get it back out of that setting. You may not be able to get the card out without either damaging it or removing the drivers seat first. If you can gain access to the inside of the door you may be able to find a broken wire again in the gaiter, but i suspect you may struggle to get to it down to the door being closed and the gaiter being compressed making access a bit difficult. What does your key do in the lock? does it just keep turning round or just won't turn at all or not as much as you expect? If you look on the passenger door you should be able to see what holds the lock in place (look around the area with the slot for the door latch).

Quick google has found the following post http://www.forum.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy/fuses-for-12v-power/ F7 - 20Amp for the Cigarette Lighter F76 - 15Amp for the rear 12V Sockets 75 & 76 are under drivers seat. 7 is in the central fuse box to the right of the steering column. Can't see anything helpful in the haynes manual for it.

That and that its an Alhambra which few of us have probably didn't help. Useful to know none the less. I did drive mine 160 miles back having originally brought it as spares/repair for the intermittent non-starting issue. Didn't see it at all till 3 days after having the car and having just taken it to fill up with fuel. Only managed to find the problem via this forum which helped make a lot of sense of the various issues I've had with it over time!