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Try this it might help http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/25311-universal-remote-central-locking-kit-mk1-1998/

Admin i might have put this in the wrong place so feel free to move it if i have

Hi here is how i done my Universal Remote Central Locking first you need some tools i used these Right start off taking the screws out the lower central bit of the dash there shoud be a screw either side like this then under this cover there is a screw in the drivers side net to the locator hole unscrew this then find the fusebox cover and remove it then locate these 4 screws and unscrew them Then the whole of this bit of dash can now be removed once removed locate the cover underneath the fusebox and remove this by pulling towards the drivers seat you can now gain access to the brackets on the sides of the fusebox there is a white like clip on either side push it towards the front of the car on both sides (the clip just below my finger in pic) then locate the hole on either sied of the fusebox (what i'm pointing at in pic) the fusebox should not be able to drop down onto the drivers footwell (may need to snip a couple of the cable ties) You can now run a 12v live fused from the battery (17amp wire from halfords) keep the fuse as close to the battery as possible (if it blows at any time you can get to it easily) run the wire throu the bulkhead to the drivers footwell now your ready to wire it in here are the two pics i got with my kit this one is the locking side of the unit this one is the power side of the unit i removed the fuse as not to short anything out while i was fitting the kit. So i then attached the 12v live from the RCLU (Remote Central Locking Unit) to the 12v live a ran from the battery also attached the positive trigger to this too see pic then i attached the earth to a good earth point i used the dash frame next to the door there is a nut unsrew this put a ringed crimp end on and put the ring over and screw the nut back on. Now you can cable tie the RCLU to the back of the fusebox to secure it now you need to find the open and close wires start off by locating the green clip/plug at the front of the fusebox on the right hand side next to the fuse puller follow these wires around the back of the fusebox untill you can get a clear area to strip the outer coating off the grey wire and the green/red wire these are the open and close on the cars central locking (can't remember which way around they are) but if it opens when you press the close button swap these two wires over i think i got these right in the pic plug the connector/plug into the RCLU now replace the fuse on my kit i needed to programme the fobs to the unit i done this by pressing the little white button inside the RCLU then any button on each of the fobs they are now programmed try the kit TIP. with the rear (manual) window down just in case some thing goes wrong you can still get into open the car if everything works then solder all the joints and tape them up there maybe spare wires just cut these down to about 4 inches and tape the ends up to prevent any future shorting out once this is done cable tie all wires up so they are neat (not fouling anything) and reverse this procedure to re-fit everything together again hope this helps this is how i done it it may not be the CORRECT way but mine has worked for the last few months.

hi all i done as you have said check the wires to the injector with the needle lift sender on that single wire was ok but the two cables that go into the connector on the other side one was really loose and when i touched it it had snapped completly off right where it goes into the connector so had to go to the scrappy's and get a new connector and solder it on the car seems ok but only gone around the block in it do i still have to get the light knocked off or will it just go off it's self and thanks again for everyone's help my lass is due to drop any time now and i need the car to take us to the hospital

right i had the AA out to the car today and he found 00542 needle lift sender try'd to re-set it but this fault came up straight away so he try'd another two time and the same happened but he couldn't find any info on this fault can any one help is this the diesel pump goosed or is there anything that i can do to sort it out and thanks again

hi i just done this with a kit off e-bay i put it behind the fuse box ran a 12v from the battery (fused) put the earth on the dash frame/earth point and the group of wires at the top middle of the fuse box next to fuse puller follow these around the back of the fuse box and your looking for a gray wire and a green/red wire these are the open and close wires if you wait till the week end i'll put a post and some pic up of how i done it i've been meaning to do it for a while but mine has started playing up engine management light has came on (brake light switch people think) once i've done it this week end i'll put a link on here

cheers seatkid would the car stay in limp mode untill it's light is knocked off by the VCDS-lite and i have read this brake fault on the mk2's but mine is a mk1 would this still be the problem ? and thanks again.

hi i just looked for the VCDS-LITE on e-bay does any one know which one i need my lap top runs windows 7 and thanks again

cheer and will do

Hi any help would be great (gal 1.9 diesel 1998 mk1).....today i went to work as usual all was fine started and ran ok as usual then went to come home 8 hours later started ok went to pull away the car was sluggish then put it into second and it was very sluggish it hit the usual turbo range and got a 1 second boost then it was back to being sluggish again so pulled over and then noticed the heater plug light flashing so turned the ignition off and then started it again and it started no problem and revved it a couple of times and seemed ok but the light was still flashing so pulled away and it was very sluggish all the way home 10 mile awayat one piont a i had the revs up to 3,000 rpm and it jerked as if the ignition was turned off then back on again so i let off the accelerator and it was back to being sluggish again any help or advise would be really helpful any questions i would answer as fully as i can please help.

use the key on the passenger door to unlock all doors if that don't work you might be able to put a 12v direct on the door motor and see if that helps if the motor works ok any way if not let us know and someone will be able to help

that is why all the car company's make it more complicated so you have to take it back to them to get it fixed, Like changing a bulb old school easy peasy pop rubber off unclip clip replace bulb plug back in rubber back on . The lad who i work with just changed his took back to the garage and £130 later bulb changed you have to take front bumper, grill and head light out just to get to the bulb what a f**k on old schooll all the way fav car mk2 escort or fiesta

how did you get on????

i would do as seat kid says check the fuel as i've had some fuel from morrisons and it ran like a bag of spanners luckily i only put £10 in so i drained the fuel out and empy'd the diesel filter and found there to be a lot of water in the old fuel so i put new fuel in took a few turns of the engine and all has been ok since now i steer clear of morrisons fuel as for checking the fuel pump the only thing i can suggest is to crack off the injectors one by one and see if the fuel is getting throu ok.

hi i have a 98 galaxy s reg and when i had problems with my turbo and MAP sensor (or the pipe leading to it) mine was put on a snap-on scanner and it also said ECU defective/intermittent had these cleared sorted the turbo out and MAP sensor and all is well now so maybe the ecu fault is something to do with the fault your having, It has been nearly a year since this has been done and i would get it sorted and go from there

cheers going to have a go tomorrow after work before the cold gets here

i am still having problems if any one wants to help try'd the yellow wire for open and the yellow/black wire for close i'm getting a small motor like noise from the doors but nothing like that if i use the key to lock the car and the noise only happens when i use the unlock button on the remote i can hear the romote locking kit click when any button on the remote is pressed do i have the right set up/ wiring diagram at the top of page 'B' any help i would be very thankful

Thanks Madbaz will do as i've mounted the remote unit behind the fuse box anyway so this will help loads i have also taken pics so i can post a 'how to' thread on here for everyone else that try's this route as i couldn't find one anywhere thanks again and happy !!! new year !!! to you and all on here.

on the radio it shoud have a permanent live (12v+) for the memory ,a ground to complete the circuits and also an ignition live for illumination on some radio's the permanent live and ignition live may need to be swapped over as for the earth it should be connected can't understand why it's not on some radio's on the back they have a black fuse like bit that can be taken out and turned around and replaced hope this helps.

help anyone ?

From the haynes the door locking unit has 6 wires coming out of the r/h front door lock unit 3. brown (earth) 0.5 1. yellow/blue 0.5 2. yellow 0.5 4. red/white 1 6. green/blue 0.5 5. green/yellow 0.5 is this the drivers side or passenger side ?????? l/h front lock unit is as 3. brown (earth) 0.5 1. white 0.5 2. black/yellow 0.5 4. (no wire) 6. brown/white 0.5 5. black/green 0.5 which are tthe wires i'm looking for and am i even looking in the right place thanks

hi i don't know any one with another galaxy and mine is a 1998 i replaced the batterys (both) in the fob we also only got one key with the car so cant try with another but if i get chance i will give it a try and any ideas on the fitting of the keyless kit if that don't work had the haynes out but its got my head battered

i done this yesterday had problems with indicators flashing when i opened any door or started the car found this to be a 5amp fuse had blown replaced this and all is ok will post wire sizes on here soon i have some off cuts i can measure for other people who want to relpace with brand new wires

Hi all i recently bought a universal locking kit off e-bay and was stumped at the diagrams with it i think my reconing my galaxy would be drawing 'B' (the first pic) am i right in thinking if i connect the open signal and closed signal to the drivers door solinoid would this in turn lock/unlock the whole car Also the brown wire (on second pic) where would i connect this wire as it look to me like a ground wire ( - ) but it says direction light is this for the indicators or just a ground( - ) I have taken this step as i need the remote for when the mother in law SLOWLY gets out the car i don't have to wait at the door to lock it i have try'd reprogramming the key and nothing happens so i bought this any help would be very helpful pics of the wires i need to connect to would be even better but any help would be helpful thanks in advance. Has anyone done this before?

Hi thanks but £45.55 inc postage seems a bit steep and your right my rubber bit is fine just the wires i have seen in my local auto shop some wire as you say with silicone type of coating VERY flexible but they need the amount of strands/thickness in each of the wires but these are only £1.50 per meter so for the 14 wires £21 then its a case of soldering (preferr that than crimping)he wires in