xavier

Just over £5 for the bolt, surprisingly the VW dealer I ended up getting it from was slightly more expensive than Ford! The bolts are available on ebay individually for £6 delivered.

look on the VIN plate on your car for the gross train weight. If it's anything like the 2.0tdci, this from another thread might help. Note to any MkII' ers this is for the Mk3! : Cheers big Kev, what you say above is right regarding licensing laws. The maximum train weight for the galaxy in question i believe is 4200kg with a maximum towing weight of 1750kg (going by my 2.0 tdci zetec vin plate and vehicle docs). Therefore the car at kerbweight 1805kg can tow a braked caravan/trailer up to a max 1750kg, even if the car is loaded up to 2450kg (maximum being 2505kg). So a twin axle shouldn't be a problem and if anything i don't have a twin axle but i beleive they tow steadier than a single axle. Another thing is there are a few twin axle caravans that are lighter than singles

Fuel filter, crikey! Thanks for coming back and posting an update. Do you know how many miles you've done since it was last changed?

> Hopefully selling mine next year after 9 years. 54k on the clock. Watch this space........................... plus we can get a full list of problems he's had with it by looking through his forum posts!

I think the reason for some confusion is that the bosch system is giving a different error code to one you'd get from a VAG system. Can you describe what happens when it goes into limp mode? Going uphill, what's your RPM's like? Normally it happens when you're at higher RPMs for a number of seconds, the VNT mechanism should close off and reduce the amount of boost being provided. If the mechanism can't move freely the boost can't be reduced enough and the ecu puts her into limp mode to prevent engine damage. As far as I'm aware there is only the VNT actuator for controlling boost, there's nothing else. Jack up, put on axle stands, remove undertray and get a spanner on the VNT mechanism (13 or 14 ml I think) and see if you can move it. Mine was solid, wouldn't move down or up. Normally it would move down, mine was stuck solid though.

got the flexi off at the other end but the male nut on the metal pipe is not for turning! Don't want to force it, have all day tomorrow to play around with it so will hopefully get it moving then it should be easy to fit and tighten up in place.

Bigdave - have done that, there's very little flex in the rear hose and so effectively screwed the new caliper on to the hose. If I was to nip the hose up to the caliper it would be pointing completely in the opposite direction to where it should be (at the sky as opposed to the discs). The old one is spot on, typical! Paul - will try heat. Did a google for alternatives but seems a sure thing I'll break the metal pipe if I try and undo the joint without applying any heat. I've also read that either the caliper should be disconnected or the bleed nipple opened to stop the flex hose bursting with dangerous results. I've ordered another flex hose up, at 6,50 I might as well replace it while I'm there! Also read that the joint is like a compression fitting so I should be able to connect up the caliper then screw in the other end using the nut on the metal pipe side, and get the thing lined up properly.

The saga continues, had everything loosened off to swap over this evening, old one off, put new one on but when it tightens up to the flex hose it's 180 degrees out of position. It needs to come round a 1/2 turn but I'll never get that on the caliper end. If I force the caliper in to place it'll twist the hose which I'm fairly sure I don't want to do. Not sure what to try now. Do I loosten the joint at the other end and tackle it that way? Difficult to see the other end for the 12 years of muck and rust on there!

Try gumtree for an MOT failure, buy, swap the engines and strip the parts of the rest of it to stick on ebay. Shell for scrap. Mind you, you'll need a driveway while you strip it. Have a look a couple of threads back on here too, I think someone had one they were selling spares off.

Thanks Paul, I'm replacing the caliper anyway so a bit of heat will be fine.

sorry another question, what spanner size is the bleed nipple? 11 seems too loose and 10's not going on.

Hi, I'm currently attempting to replace the rear caliper, I do have a quick question though : Should I disconnect the battery before removing the brake line to the old caliper? Thanks!

Plot the percentage dmap as a second y axis. I tried to post the graph I created for my gal that showed the turbo overboost then going into limp mode last night but it failed. No doubt I'll need to host it somewhere then link to it. My understanding is that the maf usually fails and gives a constant reading, hence my comment that it looked ok!

Has the sensor has been disconnected and the connecor plug and socket cleaned to eliminate a poor connection? has the sensor been fully seated into the hole in the hub and has the required clearance from the reluctor ring? there's also a possibility the new sensor could be faulty (unlikely though), where was it obtained from (i.e. is it a cheaper or more expensive one).

what's the "like this" button for then?

Looks ok to me!

Thanks sparky, I was concreting in some fence posts a couple of months ago and was bricking it as I thought I'd dropped the keys in one of the holes. Thankfully I found them in the house!

It can be intermittent. Look at the FAQ for strip down instructions. I wouldn't call the fix simple, however innotec make a "turbo cleaner" which may be another option. I recently used it on my galaxy and it seems to have restored normal performance and it was fine when towing recently. If you can get under the car, remove the under tray, see if you can manually move the actuator arm for the VNT with a spanner. If it's still (or siezed completely as mine was), it's the problem.

can I get a new key for a mkII (2001) cut with chip or do I need to go to the dealer? I only got 1 key with the car and had a few scary moments when I've thought I've lost the only one I have. Cheers! (only ask cos a Timpson's just appeared in my local Tesco).

remember you can also log the data to a file to look at later.

there's a guy on ebay advertising replacement vw keys too if it helps. I'll check mine in the morning.

chris thanks for that, I thought it was 4 years for an 01.

are you paying a garage to do it or DIY?

I'd be ruling out the standard leaking area first. Area around Aux Heater can weep, as can the area around the pump for the aux heater. Just drive it and keep a bottle of water in the back for top-ups, unless you have an option of taking it back to whoever you bought it from.

Remember the galaxy's more a VW than Ford, a visit / call to your local VW dealer might shed more light on the problem?