xavier

Grr! Had the car in a week ago for a wheel bearing. Went to check the torque on the front wheel and had to muller the hub cap to get it off. It'd been taped on the outside to hold it on but unbeknown to me they'd also used rubber gasket type stuff to glue it on to the wheel. Ended up using a tyre leaver to get the thing off. Who in their right mind think doing this sort of stuff is a good idea? If the cap's dodgy just keep it off the car and tell me they didn't put it on because it was loose. Having said that, it was fine when it went in...

Search on ebay for eberspacher screws. I need some too, however have decided to wait until I actually get the unit apart before ordering parts. Currently I have the end off, 2 screws still in holding the exhaust port on!

Did mine today. Was near-side so needed the combined lead. £23 from ebay. Tips for anyone else attempting this, turn the wheel so you can get at the sensor (I foolishly didn't when I started off), with a bit of luck getting some of the plastic out of the inside will allow you to press it out from the back. If it doesn't move drill out the plastic. I used a small drill bit, try not to brake it. After a few broken drill bits and breaking a screwdriver I'd managed to get enough out to get it part way out of the back. Then struggled trying to pull the remainder out the front. Ended up using a 5ml allen key which had just the right length at the 90 degree bend to press it out. Took me 2 hours in all, but I'm slow.

It is a huge markup if it only takes 40 minutes. It helps having access to heat / oxy. I thought about DIY-ing it but needed the car in a hurry. The guy who did it just used jacks / axle stands to do it so it is possible without a ramp.

greebo, thanks for popping back in with an update, always great if people fix a problem and then update the thread.

are you sure it's the turbo? Are there any other symptoms? Does the car drive fine?

Have you posted what the problem actually is?

VCDS lite works fine on my windows 7 laptop. Question re the laptop version of the scanner above, will it work on my 2002 Focus? Also re the older petrol galaxy models, would they work with these scanners as they're before 2001?

The may have taken it apart to clean it. You could also give it a try to see if that helps, or change the unit.

Thanks for the info Chris, I have to do mine at some point prior to the MOT.

just a thought but would smoke coming out of the air intake be indicative of a problem in the heater, maybe gasket failure or some such? looks like air filters are available for eberspacher units : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AIR-FILTER-SILENCER-FOR-EBERSPACHER-D2-D4-WEBASTO-3500-5000-DIESEL-HEATER-/110998588137?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_BoatEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item19d8080ae9

takes a few seconds for oil to get circulated round the oilways and provide the necessary lubrication. I'm with clive on this one, though maybe check your oil level if you haven't already and if it's been a while since changes get one done?

> particularly if the engine RPM is high when turned off yeah, don't do this. let it return to idle before switching off. I usually give mine 20-30 secs to cool down at idle before switching off.

I presume it's just drawing air straight in now from under the car rather than from the sill? If so I think you might need some sort of air filter on there.

covers 2.3 litre petrol and 1.9 litre Diesel. States on the back : Does not cover models with 2.0 litre 4-cyl or 2.8 litre V6 petrol engines Does not cover revised model range introduced March 2006 However for 14 quid it might be handy to have anyway, depending on what you're doing.

I've currently got the same problem as Ade66 - MAF sensor fault logged and positive deviation. Happened again this afternoon about 2 seconds pulling onto a slip road with uphill gradient at 2K RPM. Have felt the engine hesitate at 2.2K for a wee while now. Finally went out today with VAG COM logging but don't think I logged the correct data. Logged 8, 10 and 11. One thing I did do this afternoon was change the air filter (thought it had been done 6K miles ago but looking through receipts was actually 18K miles). It was pretty grotty, car seems better since doing this though I guess it could be MAF wiring, poor connection or the filter.

I'd seal it up then see if you get further water ingress. There should be a proper drainage channel there, if this is an added "extra" then blocking it up should see the water go down the intended route. I can't imagine all the water is disappearing down there, if so, you've got a bigger issue!

Can anyone tell me what the exhaust casing is made of? I figure it's stainless steel but given the weight I thought I'd check it wasn't aluminium. Going to weld the exhaust port back on this weekend.

Hang on a mo, part no was in the aux heater replacement faq I think... > not sure of VW part number. Ford part number is 1307485 > old part number 1124940 Try that. If you start the car, open the bonnet then switch off the ignition, you should clearly hear a hum from the back of the engine bay. If you don't, it's not running. Replaced the brushes in mine and can second that it makes a big difference to heating. Mine took an absolute age to start blowing warm air through the heater before the repair, now I can feel warmish air after 8-10 mins or so (no working eberspacher on mine). Downside is I'll have warm air blowing through the vents in the summer! Maybe I should put some lagging on those pipes next time I'm in there.

Did mine today (and yesterday!). Top learning points I took away were : Get the proper tool to get the hose clips off (I got a draper one for £35 from amazon, they have cheaper but reviews said they tend to break). To remove the electrical connector from the pump, slip a stubby flat blade screwdriver up the back of the plug to release it - don't spend 45 minutes pulling, inserting scredrivers, mole grips etc to get the thing off, get the clip open and it slides off easlily if your hoses are like mine (not been moved in 106K) they'll be a pain to remove. Can't offer any help here, however would suggest eye protection to stop you spraying anti-freeze in your eyes (yes, I did, and yes, I had released the pressure first). I got brushes from amazon, look for 1/5" by 1/5". £2 delivered for 4. Will report back if they fail in an untimely fashion.

does it sound like an asmatic sucking air through a straw? if so could be the filter. probably worth a try anyway, £6 for a fram filter from ebay. I believe the blower mechanism can be reached by removing the glove box.

Just did mine. Frame was broken but it probably made the job easier. Unclipped LHS of frame, and slid out that 1/2 of the frame, popped the old filter out, slid new filter in and into RHS of frame still in situ. Then put LHS of frame back in (the tricky part). Difference to blowers is substantial. Thanks Seatkid! Will check on it later in the week when I get the Aux run on pump out (awaiting proper tool from Amazon after failing to remove hose clips with vice grips and water pump pliers).

IIRC (not sure been a long day etc) but sticking vanes on the turbo will generally only cause you a problem over 3000 revs. Map sensor's maybe worth a go though it has been known to end up with a faulty MAF sensor from new. Was the sensor an Ebay one or motor factors? VAG com cable and logging some sensor readouts (can't remember which groups to monitor) can be really useful in determining the problem.

Would you get to 86mph if the MAF was kaput?!

> The underfloor aux heater doesn't work but hey, I didn't expect it to. Mine doesn't either. Tried to fix it on the car but needed to remove it to drill out screws. Serves me right for having a laugh at your predicament yesterday, went to remove it from the car today, clamped the hoses but forgot to release the pressure on the coolant system first. Got covered in OLAT when I removed the first hose.