big_kev

Tried it, uninstalled it, won't use it again until its sorted. Waiting for IE9 to be released.

Hi, it could be the blower motor gone ( although unlikely ), try giving it a direct feed. p.s. ignore the owner of the Jap Crap.

Sounds very much like faulty wiring to the door. You are probably correct on your other post, check the wiring as it passes through thr door gaiter.

The ID44 chip cannot be cloned, however it can be replaced by a different non-philips chip which can be cloned to match the original philips ID44 chip. The crypto chips have two numbers in them one which can be written over and one which can't. Allegedly ( I have no direct info. on this yet ) the PATS has both numbers stored. This also applies to the ID42 chip used in MK1 Galaxys ( at least after 1997) which is also a philips crypto chip and again cannot be directly cloned. You need one of these Copier

I didn't think there was any difference with mk1 & mk2 pats systems on the galaxy. Also I thought the chips were VW not Ford and therefore there should be no difficulty in cloning them ( if this is possible ! ).

Try and see if it starts with no throttle or alternatively with throttle fully down. Do not pump the pedal ! Might just be too much fuel already in the chamber.

Is this problem restricted to 110bhp Tdi models (AUY) and is it associated with high mileage engines (120k+)??? I would think all TDI's in the case of the temp sensor. No idea about the starter motor, details are a bit vague, could even be a duff battery, or poor earth or faulty relay or even brake switch all of which confuse the ECU and can cause poor warm starting.

Just testing to see if anyone was paying attention :lol: Can stick on beam deflectors not be used ? Also why does the car have to be registered abroad ? If I was moving there I would look to purchase a LHD vehicle and only use the RHD temporarily. RHD vehicles are unsafe to drive on LHD roads ( and vice versa ) its not worth the risk.

Difficult warm starting may point to a faulty temp sensor. Or allegedly a possible faulty starter motor. ( I know , but there are rumours ).

:lol:

Best bet is to buy a TIS cd from ebay, search for Ford Tis, or Technical system or manual etc. There are loads on there, make sure you get an upto date one as possible at least 2004 if the later ones haven't appeared yet. Obviously these are all totally illegal and i do not condone the use or purchase of these items.

What matters is the load index on the tyre - these numbers correspond to a maximum weight the tyre can carry. Are you certain he has the same tyres fitted? I just checked a few Voyager models, and two tyre sizes came up - 215/65R15 and 215/65R16 on later models, neither specified RF/XL. The load index of standard tyres in these sizes is 96 and 98 respectively, both of which are above the 94 minimum required by the Galaxy - assuming the gross weight of the Voyager is not too much higher than the Galaxy, then it is possible that these standard (not-reinforced/extra load) tyres are sufficient for the Voyager. Indeed, a load index of 96 seems to be the minimum specified. If the load index on the Voyager's tyres is lower than 96, I would guess that the wrong tyres are fitted. Guys, The galaxy has lower profile tyres with 40 psi in them hence reinforced are required for both these reasons. The voyager has a higher load index because it has more weight on each wheel but with a higher profile reinforced tyres are not required.

Hi babe, nice to hear from you again.

Extra Load/Reinforced are required for the Gal because you may have 40psi in the front tyres and 45psi in the rear to cope with an extra load and hence the additional pressure on the sidewalls of the tyres. Plus I think the Gal has a lower profile tyre fitted which again requires the reinforced sidewalls.

you could do a search on ebay for ford galaxy Scheinwerfer or you could substitute vw sharan or alhambra instead of ford galaxy remember to allow EU countries in your search. This will bring up the German sellers.

A couple of points worth noting. If you are using cheapo tyres you are more likely to change them when the tread drops below the performance limit of 3mm, whereas with expensive ones you may run them down to the legal limit of 1.6mm due to the cost of replacement. ( might be just me being stingy ! ). I would rather use china cheapos with plenty of tread than top of the range tyres that are nearly bald as the cheap ones will still work in the wet. Remember you can ignore all the facts and figures given for tyres in the dry as this is not when you are going to lose grip on the road, its performance in the wet that matters. Also why is the legal limit for cars 1.6mm when it is only 1mm for anything above 3.5t ? And they are allowed to have their treads recut a couple of times ( hence why most of the blowouts you see are from HGV's. Strangely the limit for motorbikes is also 1mm less than the 1.6mm for cars ? This knocks out any theory for the tread difference being related to the vehicles weight or speed and means that as usual the car driver is either being victimised ( as is usual ) or is being given extra safety guidlelines ( depends on your point of view). And a further note !....I know waffling again...its my age :D I was always led to believe that you should have good tyres with good tread on the front axle and a pair of something black on the rear. However recently I have seen many recommendations that if you have a pair of new tyres these should be fitted on the rear and the worn ones ( assuming still ok ) on the front. The only reason I have seen supporting this is that if you have a blowout on the front you are more able to control the car than if you have a blowout on the rear ( WTF ! ). I have experienced both front and rear blowouts in my times and the front blowout was brown trousers time wheras the rear blowout was mildly annoying. Just thought I would add my almost thirty years of driving badly into the dicussion. When you get to forty years you go "do lally" apparently :wacko:

There is a lot involved with this. 2nd Battery under drivers seat required, probably additional wiring looms, some other stuff I can't remember. It doesn't preheat the car , it preheats the water and engine ( really only applicable in very cold climates ). Admittedly if you preheat the water then your heater will be blowing warm air when you first start the car rather than stone cold.

Mine flashes with both lock & unlock from the remote.

Wouldn't proper "guests" be anonymous as they would have no means of inputting their names. Therefore the group guests could not exist as such. Therefore it has been created for whatever reason. Suggest ignoring it as unimportant except to Admin and Glen.

Some nice pics here...link below LINK

try the link below...there are some useful pictures. LINK

First of all I would take into account what some of the others say about safety. Ignoring that then cheaper tyres will give vastly superior mileage. eg

Yep sounds like the belts gone, could be alternator, power steering, Air-con or either of the pulleys failed. Could be the belt itself failed. Should be obvious which one......take the cover off and have a look.