alan_131

Prompted by gravesyt I found a reference on another (vw)forum about this. It says in vcds engine blocks 6, column headed (Cl/Br/Re/Ac/on/on) should have a "1" under the "on" next to "Ac" - mine is 0 all the time. Apparently this shows if there's a power supply to the cc memory and it doesn't work without this. I was wondering if anybody can tell me if this is right for our cars too please?

Interesting.... I didn't think it was the stalk - because vcds can see the switches change - but if I can get one for that sort of money might try swapping it out anyway. I'd assumed it would be too expensive just to try so thank you very much.

Should be better than that I'd have thought. Others will know better than me things that go wrong in the control flaps, fan etc, but is it the same when you have recirc. selected? I've read that some members have experienced a big improvement after changing the pollen filter... http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/1539-how-to-change-a-pollen-filter/page__hl__pollen+filter

Came across this by accident this morning. Might be rather late, but I had a towbar fitted to my 97 Galaxy about 3 years ago. It's a Witter unit, and mounts by removal of the big plastic reinforcing member inside the bumper external molding. Mine was professionally fitted, and although I wasn't there the whole time I couldn't see any way that the external molding could have been left in place with this unit - maybe the official Ford/VW one is different. Anyway, to get to the point, the bumper external moulding is now secured only by resting on the towbar and the screw in each rear wheel arch, and after 3 years the lacquer on the body has been damaged by the movement this allows - so if yours is the same, you might want to keep an eye on it...

My late '99 built manual tdi 110 ghia is suffering from lots of unresolved problems, amongst them is the cruise control is u/s. (It was like that when I got the car). Browsing the forum pointed me at column/clutch/2xbrake switches, so far I've just looked at it with VCDS-lite - and it seems to see things ok - at least, operating the switches on the stalk or pressing the clutch/brake pedal flips what I assume are the relevant 0/1 settings, and it's coming up 0.0 in the short coding (all switches off/pedals up) which I think means it's enabled. My bulb failure unit says the brake lights are working ok too. My speedo is fine so I'm thinking it must know I'm going over 30? Wondering if being in limp mode can stop cruise control from working, or if anybody has any ideas where I should look I'd be really grateful...

http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/12582-abs-quick-check-and-possiable-fix-sensor-ring-check/page__p__103599#entry103599 (covers replacement further down the topic) Good luck!

or this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-SHARAN-SEAT-ALHAMBRA-FORD-GALAXY-PARKING-SENSOR-/150840575186

Ebay have a listing Inner Tie Track Rod - Ford Galaxy 95->06 Steering For about £21 incl delivery. I have no idea of the quality of this part, but assume you can also buy the same from other places. Sorry, but I don't know if Galaxy has adjustable joints, but I've spent ages in the past trying to get just the right compromise between smoothness,pre-load , etc on older cars and FWIW if it was me I'd just fit the new joint, unless this is much more difficult than adjusting the old one (my guess - unlikely). Others more skilled or knowledgable (most people then) might have a different view. I hear that this used to be checked as part of the MOT, but not any more?

Hi Steve I'd like to try to help but I really don't understand what you're trying to do here - maybe if you could give some more information. Is this a remotely activated alarm system, remote device for disabling/tracking the car if stolen, some form of remote monitoring or central locking? Can you tell us what the wire you've asked about is supposed to do? Also, what model/year/gearbox - the mk1 and mk2 tdi's are very different engines electronically speaking as I understand it though I'm no expert.

Never rains etc... Any possible connection between bodyshop visit and your current problems? I'd think you might be able to get a quick indication of timing just from vcds - the torsion value is apparently equivalent to advance, though a proper mechanical check first is obviously better - reassuring for valve timing etc. Any luck with timing how long before the uneven idle starts? Once it starts, is it there at all times until the next cold start or do you get a short period of smooth running after each start-up? Others will be able to interpret the delay better than I can, I'm wondering if it's the alternator clutch siezed, and this either takes a few moments to build up or the alternator might have a "soft start" system so it doesn't show at once... Good luck - must be getting a bit frustrating...

Hope you get a good result. Extremely frustrating to pay main dealer (costs a lot because of all the special kit and training mate) prices and then get results like that. After various experiences at the likes of kwik fit , it's getting to the point where if I had work done, I might be tempted to take photos of the car with that day's newspaper before I handed it over. ....

Just a thought, and sorry I don't know the answer to your question, but are you sure the turbo is your problem? I appreciate that the inlet pipe after the turbo collapsing means it's running below 1 atm, but I'd assume that the inlet pipe before the turbo is engineered to support a partial vacuum (even the freeest flowing filter must introduce a tiny pressure drop) and the pipe after less so (if you see what I mean). Essentially, I'm wondering if the low pressure in the hose that's collapsing is because the feed to the turbo is obstructed? Of course, that doesn't explain the noise from the turbo... Good luck!

I found this helpful (originally from VW America) http://www.myarchive.us/richc/VW_TDI_with_PumpeDuse.pdf Sorry - can't tell my left from my right it seems. Reading my last post I notice that I described the mark box as being in the Bottom Left corner. IIRC that should have been the Bottom Right Corner...

Sorry to hear that - I had high hopes.... AFAIK you can see things like fuel temp and injection rates but I don't recall seeing fuel pressure. Might sound like a silly question but I think the PD cars have a tank fuel pump that you should be able to hear when the ignition is first switched on? Can I just check a few things with you? The whooshing noise is down to the A/C? Car is still down on power, but starts as soon as you turn the key (or is it that it starts better than when it was really bad - but not as well as before all this began? I wonder if there might be a clue in how long it takes for the rough idle to start? Is it the same no matter if the car is hot or cold? Is the idle always rough, once it's started? Does it run smoothly for a few seconds, or longer/shorter? (7-10 secs maybe?) FWIW (probably not much) sort of thinking out loud, it seems to me that one of two things are happening for the rough idle Something that works when it's cold is going out of wack when it warms up The ecu is instructing something to change and that triggers the problem Do you think it's worth trying to check a couple of things in vcds? With the engine off and cold, check all the temps are around ambient Log the measuring blocks for egr, and for idle stabilisation block 13 Start the engine, and when the idle goes rough, click the mark (or whatever it's called) in the bottom left corner Once the engine is warm and at idle, look at block 4 to check torsion value. This http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/multi/PD-adjust-Idle-TDI.htm explains it better than I can, and why I'm suggesting might be worth a look. Good luck!

Could well be - should have thought of that. The first thing it seems to be given for is changing between DegF and DegC and my unit has a button for that. I've come across a good few web postings on this, but only a couple for dual zone systems and only the posting here for Galaxy. I've tried them all, with a certain amount of guesswork for buttons that are duplicated on our systems. Thought briefly about trying to go through all the possibilities but there are thousands...

My 99 TDI Ghia has the dual zone climatronic (not rear a/c) (Photo Attached if I've done it right) and I'd like to be able to use the built-in diagnostics. Does anybody know the right keys to press to get started please? I've tried the ones detailed in this post http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/5483-reading-fault-codes/page__p__37728__hl__climatronic__fromsearch__1#entry37728 and a number of others on the web but with no success... Thanks in advance for your help

Looking thru the forum last night for something else I came across this post http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/8312-partial-loss-of-refrigerant-again/page__p__63129__hl__partial+loss__fromsearch__1#entry63129 which describes a noise from the a/c. Just wondered if this sounded like your whooshing?

Hi John Glad you cracked it - only sorry you didn't get any codes. How big is the log file you're trying to upload? Has she had any work done lately? Was the poor starting every time, or only after stopping for a while? I don't know much about PD engines, but is the whooshing noise you describe there only when the a/c is on? If it was me I'd be inclined to think the a/c is a separate issue, (maybe connected in a secondary way - any fault codes from that, could it be easier to hear depending on where the ac flaps are) and the whooshing noise might be an air/boost/vacuum/egr leak? Think from your screen shot you're probably already doing the sort of things I'd do, like looking at req/actual values for clues, but I'm sure that someone more helpful will be along soon. I'd like to know where the whooshing was coming from... System electronics seem to sort out the mechanical roughness at idle, if you see what I mean - certainly on my non-PD disconnecting the lift sensor makes for noticably rougher idle, so I wonder if you've got something that's flakey but not so bad that it flags an error. (crank , maf temp cam sensor? or any of the wiring/connectors). If you think of a possibility I bet there's somebody here who's been there before you. Sorry not to be more help but really beyond my knowledge... Good luck!

Hi Jay. You probably need your own thread for this but if your car only locks and unlocks using the key in the lock and not the buttons on the remote, you might need to code the fob (this is different from adding a key to your car's immobiliser). This is covered in the FAQ's http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/1485-coding-a-sharan-remote-key-fob/page__st__0%EF%BF%BDentry9914 and elsewhere on the site if you search. Be aware that there are two types of remote, infra-red (earlier) and wireless. Just ignore me if I've misunderstood your problem.

Summary - you might have already cracked it, but if not try update or reinstall of cable drivers and vcds-lite. Waffley post.... LBL files are somehow used by vagcom / vcds-lite to "interpret" and define the data that goes backwards and forwards and put some information about parameters on the screen I think. I'm pretty confident now that file selection is done automatically by vcds, so led you in the wrong direction with that - apologies. Have you re-installed vcds/vagcom since you last used it, maybe on a different laptop or os (Vista or 7 instead of XP maybe)? Possibly worth trying to update the drivers via windows, otherwise my inclination would be to download a fresh copy of the latest vcds-lite from ross-tech and the drivers from the cable chip manufacturers (ftdi probably - http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm), then uninstall and reinstall. I found this reference http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?38558-Measuring-Blocks-N-A to what sounds like a very similar problem, caused by drivers. Did a driver update on my system just now, and it loaded at least one updated (was 2011, now 2012) file - and it still works! You might know this already, but you need the cable plugged into the laptop to see it in device manager (com ports IIRC) so you can update the driver. Hopefully this will work and codes will give you the information you need to sort the car out! Good luck

What year model box trim level do you have? Wondering if perhaps for some reason lbl file is the wrong one but can't check atm as the laptop with the working battery is out with my GF...

Hi. I'm afraid I can't help with anything informed - broadly unless it's stuff like water in fuel or flaky wiring I'd have expected to see a fault code or maybe looking for timing issues but I'm very far from being an expert and I'd probably be just as surprised as you at the vagcom output - which kind of brings me to the point - for me at least I can't see the attachment. As an afterthought, I don't know how robust the protocol is, but I wonder how good it is at dealing with data corruption in the link cables or heavily loaded laptops (often authors have to do a lot of processing to simulate odd hardware-based protocols and anything after windows98 is pretty rubbish at real-time unless it has hefty gobs of free processor resource)

Excellent news! As far as the wiring goes, Galaxy do seem to be a bit more subject to problems than most, but then the tdi in particular probably has a longer useful life than many cars. It all rather depends on the attitude, ability and pocket of the previous owners/mechanics I'm afraid. You've remade you connection with crimps etc, somebodyelse might have done it with choc strip and sellotape. My 110 has been messed around a lot, the 90 is as it left the factory apart from one reasonably remade connection in a door and one tailgate wire. Rest's original afaik or been done properly... both about 160k. Good luck with the rest!

FWIW I found this http://www.tdiclub.com/TDIFAQ/TDiFAQ-1.html quite handy in understanding the way the TDI control system works and for beginners like me why the connections highlighted by seatkid/crispb123456/bigdave982 are important. I think our mk1 110 is a slight mix between the A3/A4 engines as described on this site(US doesn't have Galaxy AFAIK), but essentially it's as they describe the A3 (ie non-pd, not chain drive) but with a variable vane turbo - is that fair everybody? Bleeno contributed the link to this site in the FAQ and it's been very helpful for me since I got my first galaxy - a belated thanks if you're still around...

Thanks for the kind words - really I'm only parroting what others have discovered and posted before, here and elsewhere. From your last post, I'm wondering if, though the lift sensor is definitely in there because of the faults, and could well be the cause of all ills in this direction, if you might also have another issue (bet that's just what you wanted to hear). If you have problems without dtcs being logged, seems to me that these could (though often not) be down to events which the car thinks are user-initiated but not, if you see what I mean. Engine management on these cuts fuel when you brake; there are two switches on the pedal that sometimes need resetting or replacing. A fault here - or on the clutch switch) is also a common cause of cruise control not working (expect you can see where I'm going with this..). In vagcom under cruise-control controller you can see all the related switch states - though mine says these are fine and my cc is still stuffed... Be interested to hear of outcome from weekend. The more detail you can gather the better - for example, if sometimes holding back rather than cutting out or dropping to idle might be limp mode - so, could be the lift sensor but often other stuff as well. I'm not sure how much you've read or if you've owned one of these before, but if you do get the "holding back", is the car gutless especially at higher revs until after you switch the ignition off/on? If so, that's limp mode.... This is all probably a bit wearying, but with luck not too expensive to fix once you've pinpointed the problems. Good luck with your trip.