alan_131

You might have already read it - you've certainly already done some of what it covers - but there's this in the FAQ http://www.fordgalax...4798#entry84798 Possibly worth trying to update the drivers via windows, otherwise my inclination would be to download a fresh copy of the latest vcds-lite from ross-tech and the drivers from the cable chip manufacturers (ftdi probably - http://www.ftdichip....Drivers/VCP.htm), then uninstall and reinstall. VCDS is a bit old-fashioned when it comes to usb, (covered in the FAQ above). If you need to come back, might be worth giving the version of windows you're using. Good luck!

popuppirate - does this sound like yours...http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/20737-recirculated-air-flap/ seatkid - great writeup. don't know how I missed it before. Agree about the firmware, really annoying when the module's monitoring has clearly identified a fault but won't tell you what it is. I suppose this follows the module level replacement principle, but why they can't flag the real fault and have the dealer system say the preferred fix is "replace module" I don't know. If I'd written / spec'd code like that I'd be ashamed but VW no doubt have their very commercial reasons. Just a thought, but some laptop repair guides warn of damage to circuit boards caused by static spikes created by the airflow using a vac. on cooling fans. Not sure this is so and feel the damage(if it really does happen) is more probably down to an excess voltage generated by the spinning (much faster than when it's normally driven) fan. I'm wondering if this is a possibility here; guess not if it just runs connected to the battery, but if it's driven via an IC that current monitors for error detection.... Nowadays I either take care to keep the fan speed slow, or stick something like a cocktail stick through the blades. I'm not an engineer just an old computer bod, so be very interested to hear what you think.

This topic http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/24213-vag-com-doing-my-head-in/ has some discussion on vcds connection problems caused by no power to the socket. It's about a mk1 so some of the content won't apply but some of the links might be helpful. . . Good luck, be interested to hear what it all comes down to.

Open the door and you'll see two (probably black) plastic plugs in the door frame (near the front edge where IIRC they're hidden by the screen pillar when the door is shut. Prize those out and you'll see two (sorry I don't know which size torx screws that hold the mirror to the door. It is possible to remove/replace the mirror without removing the door card, at least on my manually operated ones, by prizing out the operating panel (the bezel the knob/window switch fit in) in the handle. Haynes manuals are really good at this sort of thing... Good luck

I have Mk1's so this could be different, but on mine the output from the MAP sensor is in millibars and in the range 900-2500 ish - or loads more than yours. I'm wondering if either your MAP is sending a duff - and right at the end of the range - signal - which I would have expected to be detected by the ecu as a problem code - or if this is the temperature reading which IIRC is sent by the same physical sensor assembly (TMAP) on a MK2 as opposed to the MK1's separate sensors. Could I suggest uplugging cable from the sensor and seeing if the value changes - or it flags any faults. Also, you could try reading other temperature values before the car is run in the morning - they should all be pretty much the same..... Might also be worth comparing boost and atmospheric pressures reported with the engine stopped. I think most sensors are read by the ecu directly, (ie it senses voltage/resistance/some waveform etc presented to it across the loom and translates it to a value like temp or pressure ) and that's why there's a possiblity the ecu needs replacing if a value is wrong. But, I'd think that the ecu is fairly robust provided that it's not presented with some voltage much outside what it expects, so very much a last resort if it was my car. I've often thought about buying a standalone reader, though nowadays more to keep in the car "just in case". Be interested to know what you think of yours. I started using vcds-lite recently and have become an instant huge fan. If it were me, I'd probably be tempted to buy a cable (<£10 on ebay) to see if vcds agrees with your reader and use some of the logging features. Good luck.

If you can give the forum the model/engine type/trim level? - eg Mk2 1.9tdi 130bhp Auto Ghia - members might find it easier to judge if their knowledge/experience might be helpful for you. If it's a mk2 tdi (or Mk1 for later visitors) there was some discussion here that might help. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/24442-drivers-window-switch-2003-galaxy/ post 5 on. (not the original topic...). Good luck

I've read that problems with autobox ecu and/or its connectors can cause limp mode, and it certainly sounds like you might have a problem with this and reverse. However, my thought would be that you may have more than one problem, since the codes you originally posted usually relate to limp mode caused by the engine ecu thinking there's a problem with the sensor or the pressure in the inlet. (which there may be, or it could be the sensor or somewhere in the wiring to it. That's why seatkid said to work on the wiring and sensor first. It may be that there's a common connection or something the loom that confuses things, but my suggestion fwiw would be to rescan/clear/rescan.... Do you own/can borrow a laptop? a vcds cable (ebay, <£10) and the free vcds software rom ross-tech will let you do your own scans and get lots of other info, like what pressure reading is coming from the sender - really helpful in your case. This topic has recent ebay suggestions for the cable http://www.fordgalax...akage-of-water/ Charge pressure control Positive deviation -intermittent This means that the ecu thinks the pressure in the inlet mainfold is higher than it should be. Most common cause I think of this (if it really is so) is the turbo producing more boost than it's supposed to at that time. Assuming you have one of the more powerful engines (not the 90) this can be stuck vanes on the turbo, dodgy turbo actuator, or contol valve stuck open. However, the device that signals the pressure back to the ecu is the subject of your second fault Manifold pressure sensor (G71) Short to plus -intermittent so I'd say, can't be trusted. Personally I'd not start on the turbo until this one was fixed. And you may have done that already with seatkid's advice. Back to where we came in - why I'm suggesting you clear the codes and do some checks with vcds.... Good luck!

Haven't experienced this, but I guess the question is what's gone wrong... and can I get the people who made the cleaner to pay for it if it doesn't go away by itself... (probably not). Whichcleaner did you use? A first guess would be the cleaner might have freed some gunge somewhere in the injection system, but maybe your limp mode is just coincidence. (big coincidence, but these things happen sometimes) If it was me, I'd read the codes - hopefully helpful - and go from there. To do this, you need a code reader or vcds compatible cable (<£10 on ebay) & some free software. This topic has current ebay suggestions for the cable http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/24563-after-the-leakage-of-water/ It might be self-explanatory, but if not, post the results (usually best to clear any codes, then run the car for a bit and read codes again - the codes don't have any dates on them so could be for faults from long ago) and details of which engine you have and I'm sure someone here will help... Good luck!

Bit puzzled... When you said in your first post everything was fine again, did you mean it drove as normal? Do you think the garage meant the bit inside the gearbox? There's the linkage - from the lever to the gearbox, and then the selector mechanism on top and inside the gearbox. The linkage is basically two cables, and there are posts on the forum about that, but the main issue with replacing it is, IIRC, the labour plus cable costs. If a cable had snapped, or as sometimes happens, unclipped itself from the gearbox mechanism, I can't see that working again without it being fixed. If it's the selector mechanism on top/inside of the box, then it can stick and be released - if you're lucky, only by working outside the box with wd40 or whatever. If you're unlucky, it may need to be dismantled or even gearbox out - there's a bolt which gets loose and falls out or shears off and can do lots of damage - it's all in here. If the problem is with the gear lever or its housing, I'd have thought - thought I haven't removed the whole housing, only the lever, that should be straightforward to replace and less labour than the cables.

Could you move the lever from side to side freely? Forward and backward freely? Sometimes (the better of the common issues) the external part of the linkage on top of the box sticks - on mine it went from normal to a bit sticky to completely stuck(side to side) over a short time... Or could be clutch related - did this feel normal? Or something completely different .... (sorry not very helpful!)

Thank you for that. Really clear pic and I'll be under the car as soon as it dries up a bit here. Both mine are MK1's though the 2000 has apparently some MK2 features according to the previous owner, so I'm following both possibilities. I remember my old mk1 Mondeo had mk2 rear brakes...

Ran mine without one for a while trying to track down some other issues, and I got (maybe coincidence) the siezed gearlinkage problem - fortunately fixed with wd40. It's a learning curve...

Haynes manual says it clips to the bumper too. I looked as best I could, and put it down to not being an original bumper even though that seemed strange. I've got lots of odd bits like you that needed sorting, missing bolts, hoses/pipes not clipped or clips that don't attach to anything. Got the ac recharged last week and it works now, so I'm glad to get this sorted - don't want it to stop because a wire's frayed through and anyway it fidgets me having stuff like that (especially if I didn't do it...)

I think your alternatives are to either replace all the bits that keys work (locks, immob, ecu perhaps - anybody) with a used set from a scrappy - or get a new key from either ford dealer or a vehicle locksmith. Personally I'd have thought getting a new key was a better bet, and for that I'd ring around. I'm afraid it'll probably be expensive - never ordered a Ford/VW key but Fiat quoted £100+ for one... Vehicle locksmith I have no idea... Sorry you're lumbered like this - easily done - I've come close many times.

Great reply Silverbeast. I now have a clue where the temp sensor currently dangling below the bumper should go. Just the temp sensor near the air filter to work out now.... I can't see VW/FORD having a completely unneccessary switch in the a/c, so I'd be inclined to replace the temperature switch/sensor when you can and before the really cold weather comes back. This article http://www.audiworld.com/tech/misc2.shtml gives some interesting information. It may be that the system has other protection built in, but...

I'd agree 100% with Saif. If the power steering noise is a screeching from the belt, have you got the engine undertray off? If belt gets wet, it can be more prone to slipping. On mine, in the wet the belt could slip enough so the assistance disappeared altogether, very suddenly and of course in mid-turn - NOT a happy experience. I found the bracket the pump mounts to had fractured at the end of the outrigger/stabiliser that reaches a few inches towards the centre of the engine. Also, after garage changed cam belt, a bolt that holds the same casting set near the block went walkabout leaving the whole lot very unhappy. Hopefully yours just needs the fluid topping up or the belt adjusting.

For me, if you mean to this section of the forum, I tend to go to the technical forum direct, so it's only if I come here via "new content"..... Otherwise, I try only to reply if it'll add something - maybe give an idea to get started on, till someone who knows more than me (most people) comes along... I've posted a couple of entries that have had a lot of views but no replies, and I think that's because they're really obscure questions that nobody's had reason to investigate before. People here are really patient and have helped me alot, even when the answer was there already if you search the right way. I'm guessing you haven't had any replies to your post about bulb holders because no-one with spares has visited....

Re-reading your original post, sounds like ecu might be responding to quicker rise in boost than it expects - or backing off, because it's not happening as quickly as ecu expects... would be a lot easier to fix these things if ecu just told you the reason it decides to do things... Will be interesting to hear what the suppliers say. As the basic turbo sounds ok, I'd hope that the very worst case would be replacing the actuator and I think you can do this with the turbo on the car. Hopefully it will be much simpler than that. All of these seem vulnerable to vacuum leaks etc in the control systems, but I'd guess you've been all through this already. Was replacing the turbo the only thing you did? Only ask as I've read that egr delete can cause some odd behaviour, and wondered if when changing the turbo you might have disturbed the egr control system slightly. If you log the boost measuring blocks and the MAF and egr duty cycle that might give a pointer..., or if you find anything else where the requested and actual are way off with the engine running. Last thought - how far have you driven it since the change? If you disconnected the battery, I've heard it takes a while for the ecu to re-adapt to your precise setup. (I notice you've been a member for longer than me so you're probably thinking something rude at this point!). Good luck - will be very interested to hear the solution..

Best way I've found to use vagcom when driving is to go into measuring blocks, pick some that sound interesting (maybe manifold requested and actual, N75 duty cycle, or whatever you think useful. ). This is live data that's generally updated as fast as your laptop/the car's ecu can communicate it. Now if you click the log button, you can tell vcds to capture the info into a file that you can look at later. Better than trying to see the screen while driving :) Clicking start starts the logging. It will probably log for hours ever on a modern laptop, but small logs are easier to look through, especially if you can do whatever causes your problem to show up. You can look at logs easily in excel or similar. Apologies for the rather wobbly explanation, but I can't get to my car atm to do screen shots etc. There's a lot on this already on the forum, or the ross-tech site is very useful too. Good luck!

Thank you - nice to know I'm not just missing something - it wouldn't be the first time. I'll check the wiring as you suggest, though from what I can see from vcds it's sort of consistently out - actual is in advance of requested till revs get high, then the duty cycle goes up and the actual and requested get into line. Agree design seems barking mad - makes the job about 10 times harder on a Galaxy than Golf or Passat with essentially the same engine....

Hi All My 99 built tdi 110 is very noisy, and vcds show the timing is advanced (4.4 deg BTDC) at warm idle. Also getting start of injection deviation codes. Hoping to fix the noise, and because I've read advanced timing can be bad for your engine, I thought I'd try adjusting the mechanical timing by shifting the fuel pump. I'd read up and it sounded easy enough - remove top cover from cambelt by two clips, loosen bolts, move pump, check, do it again a couple of dozen times until I'd got it right. Fell at the first hurdle. I can't get the cover off - it seems - though I can't see well -to have an engine mounting through the middle of it. I did find a post here where somebodyelse had the same problem and ended up with the mount off/on a load of times - post doesn't say engine type. Ebay has pics of top cover (ALH) that look like they split above where mount would be and some sites talk about top middle bottom but I can't feel a join. Does anybody know please Am I missing something with the cover or do I really have to drop the mount? (I don't have any engine type info as all the stickers are missing, but it's supposed to be a 110. engine number appears to begin 03 - but very hard to read. Not sure it's original. it has a white (catch?) bottle in the pipe from the crankcase to cam cover breather. Is 4.4 deg enough to cause damage? If it's out this much, is that likely just to be adjustment not done on the pump or is it enough for belt to be a tooth out? (Main dealer did the belt about 4K ago, before I got the car) What's the range the cold start solenoid can change the timing by? I know I shouldn't have too big a duty cycle at idle, but if it can change it by more than it needs I'll aim to get the mechanical retarded rather than advanced. Sorry for such a long post. If anybody can help with all/any of these I'd be really grateful. Off on holiday on Monday...

FWIW I'd be following Saif's train of thought. Though it's a bit of a coincidence for the wire to fail at the exact time you changed the battery, they are notorious - and if you usually use the fob, perhaps it could have gone a day or two before? If the wire has gone, you can't work central locking unlock from door lock or trigger the re-sync sequence... This from the faq shows how to check http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/8401-checking-wires-from-door-to-pillar/page__p__64104&do=findComment&comment=64104 - and on mine the locking ring was loose so didn't even need any tools to check.

have you found this post > http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/21459-water-in-drivers-side-footwell/ Might be relevant Good luck

Just a thought but is there any chance you can repair the old one? Though some of these have clever electronics to go wrong inside, sometimes if you open it up you're lucky and the fault is mendable if you or someone you know is handy with a soldering iron...

Update: Gravest was spot on - thank you! I finally did a bit of old-fashioned investigation and instead of vcds used a screwdriver. Taking the cover off the column, I can see that one of the wires from the switch has worn through where it feeds past the mounting pivot. I'd thought because all the apparent switch positions had a corresponding effect in vcds it was working, but should have done more research on the field that wasn't changing, and also checked to see if my understanding of what the column switch did was complete.