alan_131

I don't know from experience but my money would be on your diagnosis, if the speedo worked and the rev counter reads 0 even when driven on. Can you get the codes cleared and re-read after a failure? I can see how there might be some interrelated fault that could cause this, but my inclination would be to look at the cps cabling etc. Somewhere I've read how the PD engine will behave when CPS fails - think it was in the VAG self-study for the PD engine, I've posted something with a link to this before somewhere on the forum but sorry don't have time to look it up now. Good luck

I've got a few odds and ends (fire extinguisher, wheel brace, wd, etc etc in the rear wheel arches, but I miss the small extra storage my old mk 1 had in the space where my cd changer lives now.

I've done both, never had any detectable adverse side effects. Generally connect before starting the engine just so I can read fault codes etc in peace...

Seatkid Interesting one. That's what the old TIS I saw this morning said too.... When I posted I had in the back of my mind that all the PD engines were VNT, so I looked around for info. Another site has a blurb (which reads like an extract from the TIS or ford advert to me) that said that the 90 used the standard wastegate turbo. Tried looking around the net but the number of sites with this level of detail information I found was zero, apart from parts suppliers. Found k03 listed for the 90 on them, but not for the whole MK2 production run..One supplier had different dates/devices for sharan,alhambra and galaxy.. The forum has a member posting with a Mk2 that has a wastegate - but who knows, any single vehicle might have been "modified"..... Would be great if the forum could get a window into the Ford/VW parts lookup system by vin but I can't see a manufacturer going along with that unless they were compelled to by legislation. For the original poster, no matter which variant they have, I can see the attraction of a spray can fix - really simple and others have had good results. Been tempted to try it myself... I just think stuck vanes are not the only possibility here and there just might be an adverse side-effect - what's your take on it?

I believe 10k is sprayed into the intake, pushed by the turbo through the inlet manifold, though the engine and out via the exhaust side of the turbo, cleaning all as it goes. The forum has a couple of topics where members have reported good results ( ... and http://www.fordgalax...-boost-control/ ) . You're quite right that is the MAF you've picked out. Sorry, no idea if removing it gives sufficient access to spray the stuff in - I'd be tempted to try separating the end of the big hose after it and spraying into there but taking the map out would be simpler. All the air supplied to the intake comes via that hose, except for anything recirculated by the EGR (imagine you can ignore this). I'd be a bit concerned that 10k might dislodge a big lump of gunge from the intake, but the members above seem happy. Because of that concern though, might be tempted to try to identify if you are having the sort of problem 10k is supposed to fix. You don't mention which engine variant (bhp) you have. If it's a 90, then I'm not clear if the 10k is going to help even if it works because of the way the turbo operates. There are several (many!) things that can cause turbo to "disappear" and if it was me I'd be inclined to try to pin down the problem before using the 10k, and if you can tell us a bit more about the problem's symptoms someone here may be able to help. For example, has it gone completely and suddenly, or does it start out ok then disappear when you're accelerating hard (uphill, maybe), coming back after you turn the ignition off/on. Sorry, probably not the simple answer you were hoping for....

Had a look at the manual for this model scanner http://www.vtoolshop.com/upload/pdf/u585-scanner-manual.pdf shows a vag-audi mode that makes it more powerful than typical standalone obdii and does some -maybe most/all- of the functions that vcds does. On the one hand, cheaper than a proper full vcds , has none of the challenges of working with windows and is self-contained - easy to keep in the car. But on the other hand, vcds is proven and has access to a full laptop screen and the ability to log blocks for a long time - and the getting started system cost if you have a laptop is under £10.... Still be interested to know how anybody who gets one finds it.

How long does it run on a dry screen? Do they run at normal speed when the screen is wet? Must be working a fair bit harder when the screen is dry. ..

Blurb looks like it should - not that that's always a guarantee.... Be interested to know if you get one and it works...

Have you seen this? http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=308247. From the way so many fault codes include "open or short to..." I'd assume that most of the ecu sensor connections are protected against these type of faults, but maybe some of the ones that use 5v ish might suffer if shorted.

Under car this morning, took a snap of the roll restrictor while I was there. The most common problem is with the bolt (yellow arrow). My bolt fatigue failed - easy fix, longest part of job is getting the undertray off. I took the restrictor off expecting it to be difficult to remove the remains of the bolt but it came out very easily probably due to all the oil and maybe thread had a bit of a pounding before it went completely. For anybody reading this later, if you find this bolt is loose, I'd replace it with a new one - only a couple of quid from dealer. When it goes like this, you know - the car is horrible to drive right from standstill as the engine is constrained mainly by the pipework. In neutral, using the check which gregers/chrispb123456 describe is easy to do, I think the engine pretty much dangles from the upper mounts.

Just a thought but (and I've never had to strip wipers so I'm just speculating) is it possible - might the pivots be moving a little up or down under load and binding - might be worth just leaning on one (with care to avoid damage to you or the car) to see if it alters. Also lifting one wiper to see if both sides equally affected. Maybe also try the "drill small hole and inject more grease" approach?

If the metal part of the fuse is intact but the fuse plastics and part of the holder have melted then I'd think there is/was a poor connection between the fuse and its holder or the join between the fused circuit and the holder. Not sure what the melting point of the fuse is, but I suppose its possible that if an under rated fuse was fitted, then overloaded but just below the point where it melted the heat might damage the plastics over time. (Same if the circuit was somewhat overloaded but not shorted). Either way, all the damaged parts need to be replaced or made good. Sorry, don't know what that fuse does - sure someone else will. Good luck.

Hi. Can't help with your question but if you could add some details of your Galaxy (year,fuel/engine variant/bhp, trim, manual/auto) then that might help others ....

Rats - thought you'd cracked it. I did a quick test a couple of days ago and IIRC (and cause I thought you'd beaten it, not documented) I was seeing data pin dropping close to zero then swinging back to 12ish each try but I'll do it properly - was attaching to ecu whilst monitoring lines on instrument panel. I wonder what the minimum number of connections needed is to get the ecu to work.... Did you think about using vcds-lite as seatkid suggested, or just linking pins 4,5, 7, 16 to your interface? If I've understood correctly, you've done a big swap out but the ecu is connected to the car as before, so if problem remains after swapping the ecu, maybe problem exists when ecu is providing a path for something "upstream" that's causing the ecu to then stuff up, or possibly canbus output is taking something by surprise? Agree about the interiors - mine has a similar light coloured carpet and was owned by a childminder before I got it. Not sure if it will clean but it's certainly awful at the moment. If I keep it I might well be doing some sort of makeover...

I thought the mk1 was only available with 90 and 110 engines. But if it is mk2 130 pd engine, then I think it will have (or originally had, because some sellers of replacement alternators eliminate them) a clutch. (Seatkid, do I remember reading a post from you that some 110s had dmf?)

Sorry but re-reading your updates - Was the info about lights on your old instrument panel based on plugging it in today or from how it used to be? If it was today, did you try battery voltages with engine stopped/running? I have seen 14.6v on the instrument cluster connector pin for charge light with the engine running, but I may have started the engine before I disconnected the panel - don't remember I'm afraid. Haynes says instrument lights earth thru e1, lh engine compartment. Does either turning on your lights or dimming the instrument lights make any difference.... Hopefully someone else may have something more definite....

Sorry but re-reading your updates - Was the info about lights on your old instrument panel based on plugging it in today or from how it used to be? If it was today, did you try battery voltages with engine stopped/running?

Hummn. My 99(which is here) only has the light blue wire and I've just checked - 10.5 ish volts connector to ground, with the connector off the alternator. Haynes shows both the wires you have, with the "extra" one connected to the ecu. I don't know if this is ecu voltage sense or management. Disconnecting the instrument panel - Battery volts, engine off,ignition on, about 12.6, engine running about 12.4. Reconnecting the panel brings the alternator online and battery volts up to 14.7 I suppose it's just possible that when the alternator is connected to the small connector the voltage drops (due to a high resistance somewhere in the feed) so much that it's not enough to fire the alternator but this seems a bit of a long shot. I don't think I can do it today, but I will check on the other car.

When you say the battery/charge warning light glows dimly all the time, is this all the time including when the engine is stopped? Engine running you should see about 14.6 v on pin 16 on the connector to the instrument panel. Did you have the airbag warning light on when the old panel was in? Does vcds see airbag faults? I think your charging was working ok before? You had 14.6v or thereabouts on the fuel level sensor engine running iirc. My impression is that your alternator probably isn't putting out proper output because it's not "activated" somehow, possibly due to a bad connection. When I was young this "activation voltage" (which drove the field coils because the residual magnetism wasn't enough to kick the thing into life) arrived via the instrument panel warning light. I expect it's smarter now. I'd pull the small connection off the alternator (engine off, of course) and see what voltages you have there ignition off/on, and maybe retest with your old panel in. Of course, your alternator may be stuffed, but a bit of a coincidence. Maybe still some residual earth/feed issues? vagcat.com might be helpful for part info.

There's an entry http://www.fordgalax...9315#entry59315 in the FAQ for this - don't know if you've seen it - which with the pdf from silverbeast (post #2 in this thread) should provide the info you need. Not all cars with cruise control have a light. There's a topic somewhere on the forum with a poll about this.

Limp mode is something that comes up frequently and I'm sure you'll get great help here on the site but as the Mk3 is a very different animal to the MK1/2 probably better If you re-post in the MK3 part of the forum http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/forum/175-mkiii-technical-section/ where you'll find a wider audience with mk3 experience and the mk3 faqs... Good luck

Ah... welcome to the wonderful world of Galaxy ownership. For me it's been a mixed blessing, my old one was pretty reliable for 160k, new one (very cheap) not so at the moment, but sure it will be... Very economical on diesel, great tow car, loads of space. If you can post fuller vehicle details - your year, auto/manual, bhp (or engine type) it'll help pin down some of the answers. Just a thought about your overheating if it still is (mine, like Saif's, rarely needs the fan - usual problem is getting it hot!) but what sort of blockage was it you cleared out?

Well seems to me you've pretty much cracked it! I think your find will explain a lot. Apologies for the pause. I've been through both my '97 and '99 cars and as far as I can tell the red plug is functionally identical in both. Measured all the voltages and they are the same except abs related. Both behave the same re when the illumination comes on. Not sure what model year the '97 is, but the black moulding that attaches to the raw steel bracing bar across the front of the dash is dated april '97. So sorry, not quite the match I was hoping for for comparison purposes Took the red cover off the plug, and tried to simulate your fault as it was by popping various pins in the plug - couldn't exactly, as I think yours is intermittent due to engine movement/vibration, but I did get washer level (and some of the time main beam warning) when I had pin 3 (earth for sidelights) out and sidelights on at the switch (effectively same as yours) I was going to suggest you checked the voltages on the plug, and maybe for elimination purposes provide alternative feed/earth, but I really don't think there would be any point until you've sorted out your find. If you do want to check voltages later, the most relevant ones are i think pins 11(red) and 13(black) - should be steady at around 12v ignition on. I measured using a probe jammed against the brace for earth. Earths are pins 1&3 - brown -plus via bulbs(eg washer level) etc if it can find a way... Hope your rework cracks it. Afterthought- The Haynes manual gives the switched feed as on pin 22 - it's actually on pin 13 on my cars anyway. Vehicle speed sensor apparently earths through same point as instrument functional earth. Really think when you've fixed your earths, anything left will be pretty easy to find...

Know what you mean about the extension lead - my partner is the one with the working laptop battery so the only time I can test is when she's not using it. Maybe a socket in the centre of a field and driving round in circles? I think a non-tdi panel might work just for testing, though not so good long term - even if all else is the same, the clocks are a bit different for the higher revving engine I would think I want to try something quickly on my '97 car if I can get there today. edit - I didn't. If you like, can lend you the clocks from that for testing if not cracked soon and you can't find a set locally Hope the vac pipe change helps the turbo problem. Thought I'd posted this this a.m.

Does this sound right to you? Apart from the problem not connecting to the instrument panel controller, (and ignoring your turbo issue for a second) all of the jumping around sounds just like a shaky feed/earth. It happens as soon as the engine starts, so could also be a change in status of something inside the panel when engine running is flagged. I need to visit my other Gal to check on the pre-98 build, it's a way away but I hope to be there tomorrow. Is it possible for you to log boost and vehicle speed when driving on the stretch of road you have the boost problem on - if it logs fast enough and the power on/off cycle takes long enough you might see if the speed and boost are consistent or jump around and if the ecu is calling for reduced boost? Only a suggestion as it can be a pain to do when driving. I asked about the fuel sensor because its earth links to the same point as the instrument panel according to haynes and I wondered if, with the engine running, there was a voltage between the earth side of the fuel level connector and a known good earth like the floorpan. As it's a small gauge wire I want to be cautious before seeing what happens if it is jumpered to the earth point. If I can get all the junk out of the back of mine I'll see what I get. Did you get a chance to test battery voltage - might also be interesting to see how that compares with vagcom's reading if you should happen to have it connected, and how close it is to the voltages you measured at the fuel level sender plug engine off.