alan_131

Hi. My 99 Ghia TDI has an oddity with the central locking - from either key in lock, or remote, the NS rear door locks only if the locking is cycled twice. First time the lock whirrs 4 times and stops still unlocked. Repeat the process, the lock whirrs 4 times but is locked. I wonder if anybody can help me narrow this down please? I'm thinking switches in lock itself, wiring in door gaiter, lock ecu. On my even older Galaxy the control unit was under the passenger seat (bad news for the water, but easy to test). Any hints gratefully received ... oh and could somebody tell me if the lock control is still separate or now part of the main ecu please. Probably not relevant, but the remote unlock function doesn't always work though lock is reliable (new batteries, and light on remote flashes so I don't think it's the remote). Sometimes using the lock (even though the car is still locked) followed by unlock works... Hope this isn't covered anywhere obvious on the forum...

Hi again. Sorry for the delay somehow missed your last reply. Right after your last post I replaced the 5deg switch with a cut down fuse, but as far as I can tell nothing's happening. I think the next step is to pull the connector and check the voltages, and maybe bridge across to try to fire it up without the engine running. I have a lot of issues with the car and until recently nowhere suitable to work on most of them - no garage & working in the road so anything that needs to be dust free was tricky - hence doing stuff that can be done in the road. Think I'll be posting a few more requests for help over the next few weeks - I've rented a container so now have somewhere to work and store my old Galaxy. No power so not ideal but at least legal and reasonably clean. First new post straight after this. Thanks again for all your help.

Shortly after I had all the belts done on mine I had a noise that was there only at idle - very slight revs and it went away. I could see the tensioner moving more at idle too. Eventually found a bolt missing from one of the casting mounts and also the lower casting with the pas pump had a fracture on the little arm that goes across front of engine to stabilise it. I've also read of the alternator pulley siezing - apparently some VW TDI's have a sort of overrun clutch built in. This might be a red herring as I've read about it mostly on American sites re VAG TDI's in general.If you google I'm sure you'll find it and if it applies to us. There is a simple test for this described in the posts Good luck and would be interested to hear what you finally pinned it down to.

Too late for OP but my '97 aspen TDI came out of the factory like this. Ford no longer carry all parts for a mk1 I'm told - my garage couldn't get the shoulder bolt that fell out after they changed the timing belt - one reason why I now have two galaxys - but your scrappy may be handy. Haynes manual shows the "non a/c" belt path etc IIRC.

Hi Moz. Not always easy to diagnose this. There's a huge amount of information on the forum. I'm a newbie here but if you try searching for limp mode you'll get many hits. I'm not saying this is what you are suffering from but unless it's an automatic it seems a good place to start. A cable that will work with the free version of VAGCOM (VCDS lite) is less than

I've heard that water in the ecu can cause this problem - I think though on a 'V' the unit has moved it can still get wet. But, FWIW, on my 'R' plate a break in the thick brown wire in the black tube linking the driver's door to the jamb causes exactly the same window issues - so I'd echo V6Mikey's advice for any new readers.

The cluster in my Mk1 came out very easy, IIRC you remove the black trim around the Cluster (a couple of screws I think) and then its obvious how the cluster itself is fixed/removed. Dont recall any rubber bits... (maybe someone jammed them in to try and stop some elusive rattling :blink: ) Rather late for OP but for anybody coming late to this - my '99 has two lugs one each side of the cluster and the rubbers fit on these. Two screws at the top of the cluster - remove them, the top of the cluster swivels on the lugs. Swing it right down, then you can pull the cluster forward, disconnect the two cables (on the back, one each side) and wiggle it out past the fully lowered steering column. It's a tight fit but doable. The bulb holders sit in recesses in the back - one way to twist the holder is with long-nosed pliers.

Hi. I have a recently acquired late '99 TDI 110 Ghia. I suspect oil pressure is down, (noisy & oil warning light flashes on start up). Oil temp display is always --.- ; there's no sender and looks like there never has been (anybody know if this normal?). I'd like to have a simple way to monitor the pressure temporarily, and I'm wondering if replacing the pressure switch in the filter housing with a combined pressure switch/sender and connecting the pressure output to the unused temp. line will work. Anybody any thoughts - or know what input the ecu expects from the oil temp sender - please? Thanks a lot Alan

Thank you again - if only the manual was as helpful! I've been though the site and anywhere else I could find info on eberspacher in the past partly because I was considering fitting one to my old tdi Aspen. Physically mending the heater I'm happy with, it was the missing pump and no response from controller that was throwing me, should have pulled the plug to see if I'd got 12v. I thought code clearing was the big issue, so not needing to do that is a big plus. Do you happen to know if the heater controller needs anything to make it reset itself (unplugging?) - I'm assuming it's got some way of locking out to stop it dripping fuel? I'll try bypassing the 5C switch and see what happens...

Wow that was quick! Thank you. That explains quite a lot. I was hoping that the eberspacher controller was linked to vagcom so I could get to the diagnostics but I'll try to fix it the old-fashioned way - starting with the glowplug... Great first experience of asking a question - I'm afraid I'll be back very soon with more.. Thanks again Alan

Hi. Wonder if anyone can help me with this please? Recently acquired late 99 MK1 TDI 110 Ghia with climate a/c. I have the auxiliary heater under the car, but no second battery and as far as I can see no aux. water pump - I've looked under car and behind fuel filter . VAGCOM lite can't find the controller on 18 - I'm hoping this is because a fuse has blown. Could anybody help me pin down the fuse location please? Haynes book only covers units with second battery, and I've checked fuses suggested in forum for both Mk1 & 2 as well as in owner's handbook - no joy - so I'm hoping somebodyelse will have been there or can at least tell me if this setup is standard (car's been fiddled with a lot I think). Any help/suggestions greatly appreciated... Alan