alan_131

Sorry - missed your last post - I'd already started my reply before you posted but got interrupted (my partner's ill atm, and having adverse reaction to antibiotics, ho hum. All downhill once you hit 40...). The forum post you mentioned isn't actually the one I was referring to in post 20, but much the same. Seatkid's succinct post says it all really... If you have a multimeter, I think the sensor should have a resistance of between 80-120ohms at the plug. Checked mine just now, 109. With my meter, can't detect any difference in this with the engine running - on any setting - but probably cause the meter is averaging or the sensor needs 12v to operate. For me, vcds doesn't flag the implausible signal when I plug/unplug, just the open circuit etc. You can hear quite a difference in engine note, but the mechanical timing is out on mine (Main dealer fitted new cambelt about 2000 miles ago, just before I got it. Maybe belt stretch (I'm feeling charitable today.) Either way, it runs - but as I said before, could be ecu thinks implausible worse than broken, or maybe you need to leave it longer or be driving it. I found an old post elsewhere that said running with it disconnected just caused a bit coarse running and slightly worse mpg, but even if that applies to our cars I wouldn't want to try it for long. For the immobilizer, as far as I can tell, logs the same basic code with a missing chip as an unauthorised one. So if you have a key with a faulty, unregistered, or missing chip, you still get the basic error message. There may be more detail available somewhere, as the led on the door panel can tell the difference - if you wait a minute, it flashes the code on the door led and turns on the eml. A key with a missing chip seems not to work the starter, a duff chip the car starts and stops at once. I've not tried adding a key to the immobilizer but I'm wondering if at some point somebody has tried and failed and that's your other code but maybe not. For what it's worth, not much, to check weak signal, I wrapped the key in foil. I found the larger (remote c/l) needed more layers to block the signal than the flat key, but the immob still knew they were there even though it couldn't read them properly. Once the car is started, removing the chip doesn't seem to affect it - but I havn't done an extended test, and as i had immob codes when I checked after mine stopped, it seems a bit of a coincidence.... Anyway, if you have both keys and it happens less with the bigger one could be a clue... A couple of quick questions I should have asked before, if you havn't solved the problem already.. Is this a manual? Does the engine acually cut out completely, or just drop to idle? (I know, you'd have said idle if you meant idle) What's happening to the rev-counter when this happens? Anything else affected whilst it's happening (if you have time to notice). You mentioned it happens when you accelerate - though this is stressing the engine and might be a trigger, I wonder if it's as simple as you accelerate, engine twists a bit, wiring etc... Hope all this is unneccessary and you've cracked it, but if not, good luck...

You're probably better placed to know than me then! I've always tinkered - starting with outboards and lawnmowers and moving on to bikes and cars once I hit puberty... but no formal training at all = and most of my working life I've spent in computers too. Sort of retired now, in a need to get back to work cause the money's running out kind of a way. Yes, if it was me I think the immobiliser would be a prime candidate for culprit. Had the same on mine, but much less frequently - perhaps 2/3 times in the 12 weeks I've had it. It was one of the reasons why I got vagcom - never really needed it on my other one. Not tried to solve it yet - no time -, but the obvious place to start seems to be the usual process of elimination - different keys, aerial ring location/connections - the stuff on the ross-tech website under the code. "Interesting" that it seems to happen when you're accelerating - maybe something moving that trips it? Of course could be more than one thing (wire moving, tripping out say cut-off solenoid, then on overrun reconnecting...). If only you weren't driving it, would be good to see if the immob code came up right after the cutout - don't think you can log immob on vcds-lite unregistered unfortunately. I'm sort of assuming that you don't want to pay out to get the key/immob recoded atm. As I understand it, the immobiliser chips in the keys are really reliable, but if you have a clone-able key and no other working spare might be worth getting a key cut to rule that out but seems a bit of a long shot. I can lend you the aerial ring from my old galaxy for a couple of days to test if you get that far, but probably not in time to get to you for the weekend. (I'd need it back, because I'm still driving it...) Think I'd join the AA or whatever before that journey. I wonder if the chip would work if taken out of the key and stuck to the aerial ring. It might need a particular alignment - or it might not work at all because it needs to be on the axis of the aerial/barrel. Good luck - let me know if you'd like to try that aerial.

Hi. I used the sharan 7M setting and it worked fine for me, but only used it when I first got the software. Now I just connect to the individual controllers. I've tried disconnecting my lift sensor and it flags a different fault than the one you have, but the engine still starts/runs. However I haven't tried it on the move. I already have a control deviation and don't want to drive it without the correction the sensor allows (I think). Do you have any more codes logged after the engine cuts out? On another (tdiforum probably) forum I've seen something very like this, which went away when the connector was cleaned with contact cleaner. Have you had any luck with the wiring. I'm sure you'd find the same info on here somewhere. I think the sensor has a resistance which is read somehow rather then a simple off/on, so could be sensitive to this. An expert will know, but I imagine a badly connectedsensor could be worse than none at all, because it could signal the ecu that the timing was definately off (in error) rather than leaving the ecu to assume its ok-ish... When I unplugged mine to test it, the connector had some fluid in it. Could be contact cleaner (hopefully), might be diesel or probably worst case - and I don't know if the problem extends to this connector or not - coolant migration. So I can see it might be subject to corrosion. Good luck!

Sorry sparky Paul - writing very slowly and didn't see your post till after mine. So there's the explanation why chrispb123456 says use the ford stuff... Pannier_Tank - I'd rely on these guys opinions....

Looks like you've found a couple of possible explanations for your problems. Now you've got the codes, I expect you're working your way through the ross-tech and the forum and I don't imagine I can add anything to what you'll find there - you need the experts for that - but one thing I've heard or read somewhere not mentioned on the ross-tech site under the code anyway is that the pickup coil for the immobilizer (black ring round the ignition barrel) can move a bit, or get confused by additional keys on a keyring. Not experienced this myself but... Did you get any codes from the a/c? One other thing - forum usually recommends clearing the codes and seeing what comes back, in case some relate to old problems that have been fixed. Of course, you may have already done that, and in any case it's sometimes useful to know what's happened in the past...

Understand why you would expect to be able to use an oil that complies with the standard and this might well be perfectly ok - sure it would be better than what you have in there at the moment, maybe perfectly ok - after all that's what standards are for. But if it were my money, I'd follow crispb123456's advice even if it was more expensive - it's going to be in there a long time, and I don't believe he'd suggest it unless he thought it was justified - and you don't get that forum guru label by giving duff advice...

It's telling you you have a fault. (helpful, eh?) (Seatkid mentioned it and faultfinding hints in his post, there's lots more on Galaxy ac probs if you search) When you get your vagcom lead you should be able to interrogate it and find out what it thinks the problem is.... then if you need help, post the codes. Bet somebody here will have seen them before! Good luck!

Aircon from memory of reading (cause mine was u/s when I got the car and I'm not spending money on it till I'm sure I'm keeping it) is basically automatic unless you switch to "Econ". So, if temp inside is warmer than your choice on the dash, I THINK you may get ac on, maybe blended. On LO I guess it's on all the time. When I'm back to the car I'll check the handbook if you like. I know mine flashes on startup, and vagcom says I have an open circuit on the pressure switch, which I've not dug into yet, and won't start the compressor. If yours is blowing cold at all, and not flashing, then you're ahead of me... Now you're into the FAQs you'll find a well-trodden path for most things. I've not really got to grips properly with the search facility yet - I do a bit better with advanced search (the cog next to the magnifying glass) - but more than once have had a question patiently answered only to come across the same experts' answer in a previous posting. Good job they're patient.

You're not alone... Bought my 2000(99 built) 110 Tdi Ghia on ebay, finding many issues. Not at all sure I won't end up spending more than it would have cost to get a get newer one. However, for you, to look on the bright side, once you get your vagcom lead the engine problem may be easily solved. The other stuff - apart from the a/c perhaps - could be very easy/cheap to fix. Do you have the climatronic (LCD panel) a/c or the one with three rotary knobs? If you have the rotary knobs, is the rear heater panel enabled on the dash - and switched on on the panel above the LHR passenger door? If it's the climatronic, does the display flash when you turn the car on? vagcom may help here too. Sadly Galaxy AC not very robust.. Cruise control might be switches Window could be wiring in gaiter Heated passenger seat - no idea - fuse - do you have swivel seats? Forum has lots on all the above if you search, and the experts here have really helped me... Good luck

It's a real pain when this happens and the offender doesn't stop. Mine lives in the street, one-way, parking both sides. In four years I've had to replace both sides at least twice. Plenty on ebay - search Galaxy Mirror. Just looked - last time I bought glass only (not heated) from wingmirrorwoman

I think Octo0072000 is right - best to go for unit from TDI. Haynes says the ratios on the higher gears are different....so even if they are physically interchangable a box from a petrol engine vehicle won't be ideal...

Sorry - tried to edit post but then got distracted and it timed out.... Although not a solution, it seems you're not the first member with something similar http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/23389-headlights-on-dash-lights-out/page__p__167909__hl__headlight__fromsearch__1#

I found this document on the web. http://qa2k3.motorcraftservice.com/vdirs/protech/quickstart/projects/2013eWSM/EPAS/ENG/dtc/PSCM_U3000.xml NOT aimed at your car (too old!) but shows that the code your friend read for you typically has associated sub codes, might be handy to know what these were, and if they came back after being cleared. Perhaps you could tell us the model Galaxy you have (like LX or Ghia), and if your switch panel looks like this? http://www.lyonssystemsserver.com/breakerpro/1038/1038-070312-161919-891-PTIMG.jpg Realise that your car may be different to crispb123456's as the lucky whatsit has a brand new one, but I wonder if your car should have had a switch - is it possible that the switch has been swapped? I know that some cars don't, but even my old Aspen had a dimmer and that was the lowest imaginable trim level... Did the Ford dealer look at the car - they should be able to look up the actual car on their system and see if it came out of the factory with one. One other thought - some cars (frankly I can't remember which manufacturer let alone models) had pop-out centres to switches (you push the middle of the switch and it pops out about 10mm), maybe yours is like this but jammed in? All just thoughts rather than knowledge I'm afraid...

Hi Dennis. I'm sure one of the experts will be along soon with a better informed answer, but I wouldn't rush to replace the cluster just yet. Not familiar with the Mk3 (it is MK3?)at all, but I wonder if your problem might be something other than the cluster. LEDs are normally extremely reliable (50,000-100,000 Hours life) unless they're accidentally connected to a higher voltage. Not to say that it's not something in the cluster but could be something else. Does the MK3 have a way of dimming the instrument lights? Most cars do. If it does, I'd try looking for problems around the wiring that feeds the dimmer switch, the switch itself, etc. I don't have a copy of the TIS (the Ford Dealer workshop manual) but somebodyelse might be able to give to give you a better steer. Do all the other lights (warnings etc) and displays on the dash work ok? Do you have any other problems... Good luck!

Hi Moz Best bet might be to try it and come back if you have problems. May have been lucky but mine was straightforward. Basic getting started procedure is (IIRC, follow at your own risk!) Install the drivers that came with your cable Install VCDS-Lite and allow it to run (just accept all the defaults) Connect cable - both ends. In my MK1, the connector lives under the front ashtray (take out the ashtray, then you can pull the lid/base out, the connector will be obvious) Ignition on switch to/Run VCDS-Lite Click Options Click a com port (COM3 is a good starting bet) Click Test If ok, Click Save If not ok, try the other ports. If none work see below (Donkeys years ago, PCs only supported 4 hardware com ports, and VCDS-Lite follows this convention it seems, so we may need to make a change to some settings) Goes back to main VCDS-Lite screen Click Select to pick a controller and you're off! If you have problems, have a look at this thread http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/10614-vag-com-connection-problems/page__p__84798#entry84798 or come back to us. If you do come back, might help if you could say which version of windows you're running. Good Luck!

Just been out and checked - on mine (99 Ghia) when the rear door window switch is enabled, it's lit (very dimly), and when it is disabled, the led on the driver's control is lit - again very dimly. There are 10 wires connected to the motor, according to the Haynes manual. I would guess that some of these are internal to the door. The manual shows the motor and control as integrated, and I'm not sure what does what. But essentially it seems to be power and earth to the unit, and then smaller wires that deliver the control information. To me, that suggests that you have restored power, but perhaps have another break (maybe inside the insulation) in one of the smaller wires that feed the switch in the door (or a blown fuse?) The diagram also shows three associated fuses F2(10A) F71(30A) and F55(5A). This is Haynes though and they don't seem to have the supplements they used to have that reflected model changes just odd notes. Possibly worth checking? Good luck!

I know you're going to say "what does he think I am" or possibly quite justifiably something much ruder but you haven't accidentally hit the disable on the driver's control - or got a dodgy switch there .... It wouldn't be the first time I'd spent ages looking for a fault only to find I'd just forgotten to put a fuse back...

Power that comes and goes is usually "limp mode". You'll get a lot better informed advice from the experts on here than from me but I'd want to check some other stuff before stumping up for a new turbo. It might really be clapped out but - Best bet is to search the forum (try LIMP or VNT or TURBO - many posts). There are other causes than the turbo but if your mechanic is pointing at the turbo... VNT is type of turbo and I think I read recently on the forum that it's fitted to all MK2 TDI variants. It would be helpful to know what led your mechanic to conclude the turbo needed replacing. Mostly turbos go wrong one of two ways - bearings/seals worn out, maybe contact between turbine and casing, can be BIG smoke and damage - and gunging up. Garages used to replace gunged turbos, but many people have had success in cleaning them. Often you experience it like this - you drive quite gently most of the time - and things seem fine. Inside the turbo there are control bits that move, but not so much when you drive gently. Also, exhaust passing thru is more likely to buildup carbon on turbo internals when driving gently. These bits that move get gunged up, then the turbo delivers more (or less) power than the engines control system expects, so it says - ah ha! problem here, reducing power to keep things safe. This usually happens when you have your foot down a bit - up a hill maybe. Car is gutless. You turn off the ignition, next time you drive the control system starts from scratch and you get full power until the cycle repeats. When the turbo is gunged, it can sometimes be cleaned - either by taking it apart or with a chemical cleaner (search INNOTEC for example). I've read of a member who cleared the problem just by manually moving the actuator rod manually. Or it may not be gunged up turbo - other things cause this like split vacuum pipes and flaky control valves as well as lots of other stuff. Basically anything that means the control system is unsure if things are ok can put the car into limp mode if i've understood it correctly. Honestly, if you read the forum you'll learn a lot - just about all I know on this and Galaxys came from reading the forum. For me, the vagcom advice from BFC1001 is spot on. You can get quite a lot of information by plugging into the car's diagnostics, and if you post the results the experts here have more to work on. Good luck!

Afterthoughts - does anybody know how much the cable adjusts each time you use the handbrake? Just wondering how often you need to operate it to go from wound right in to normal "new pad" position? Anybody had any luck with WD40 or similar on the pivot etc? ....

Did mine a couple of years back - IIRC I did exactly the same as you, no problems. I'm afraid I don't have a solution, you need one of the experts for that, but I do have a couple of questions that might help clarify things a tiny bit.... Could the handbrake have been U/S on that wheel before the MOT? Don't know if you saw the tester check the brakes, or if the MOT flagged up uneven/ineffective handbrake? When you apply the handbrake or pull the cable does the brake come on at all, even though it doesn't grip the disc? I've read of problems with corrosion gunging things up, and others where the mechanism's been damaged, and found on the web a site that talked of some calipers (not neccessarily fitted on a Galaxy though) that needed the piston winding out half a turn to reset the self adjuster - I've never read anything like that in anything specific to a galaxy) but also somebody who had a similar sounding problem fixed - the operating lever on the caliper wasn't moving far enough to work the self-adjuster part - I think due to it not returning to the right start point, rather than not going far enough when pulled by the cable if you see what I mean. That was on the forum somewhere I think... Good luck!

I know this sounds really obvious but just to help the experts have you ruled out flat/duff battery? When you try to start it, do the dash lights go dim(I'm assuming that the car will try to start with a very low battery, but it may be that it recognises that and won't try at very low voltages...), any clicks when you turn the key etc etc. It might help if you could post some more info such as what model you have, year, manual or auto, anything you've done to try to solve it so far. Good luck!

Glad you got it sorted. I've just checked and my cable has the led lit whenever it's plugged into the car, even without the laptop or the ignition being on. Can't tell if this is driven by the 12v or the data line. It would be nice to know if most cables worked the same, so I was wondering if you thought that the led on these cables was a good indicator for the 12v being present or if it varies by cable type?

On mine, with the battery disconnected so no central locking, the driver's door will only lock mechanically from the handle inside the door, and then only when the door is closed. Wiring faults cause all sorts of strange happenings in the central locking. (including how far the key goes round on mine - not sure if this is because the lock to key link is mechanically broken but the key operating the switch operates the electric bit which operates the lock if you see what I mean - I just mention this because it shows how odd things can be, I also had a rear door which you could hear FOUR distinct cycles due to wiring faults and the door locked about once every other time I tried the key) I'd start by checking the wiring in the rubber tubes connecting the doors - there's really good guides to this and other stuff you'll find useful eventually in the FAQ. If you haven't come across it yet, click here http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/7886-faqs-common-questions-and-solutions/ I'd be lost without the stuff everybody else has taken the time to post. Not quite sure about your comments on the driver's door when you try to lock it from the inside - does the handle go in, and then make a noise and come out again? Wiring can cause that too. Maybe you could describe the noise a bit more... You could try, just as a part check of the mechanical state of the lock, pulling the central locking fuse or disconnecting the battery then trying to lock the driver's door from inside the car. If you do go the battery route though the ecu forgets some learned values and things might be a bit ropey till it relearns them. Honestly though, if you fix the wiring first most strange stuff goes away.. Good luck - you'll get there in the end!

Been sorting same thing out myself last couple of days. There's a number of causes already detailed on the forum and people here have been immensely helpful to me. Mine was caused by corrosion and crud and fixed with lots of wd40. Other causes - broken blue cable/mountings & ball-joint popped off (I'd guess this would give a floppy leaver, mine froze solid left/right and would only go forward backwards) or the selector pinch bolt problem (MK1 only I think). Not sure how this shows but if the bolt falls in the gearbox and then gets into the works its bad news! If you search the forum for selector or gearbox you'll find it - the posts on here have been a lifesaver for me... Good luck

I'm a newbie and one of the experts will be able give you a better answer but I'm sure I've read somewhere that a bad crimp on a major cable connected to one of the fuse boxes is known to cause this type of problem. I've certainly seen some serious damage caused by bad crimps on mains systems. It's a vicious circle - bad joint causes heating causes joint to worsten till eventually big damage occurs...