chrispb123456

Hi there A subject that has loomed many times, first thoughts would seem to point to a blocked rad especially after adding radweld. A few things to check. Make sure electric run on pump is working, this is found behind the fuel filter, this will assist expelling any air in the system and ensure flow through rear heater, assuming that this is working try this. With a cold engine and with coolant at correct level (leave cap off) start engine observe water bottle? it should take about 20 mins for engine to get to 90 deg, any sudden rise in water level or air bubbles would indicate air in the system this may be caused by compression pressure leaking into the water jacket ie, head gasket (most common) or cracks in head or block.

Hi there If you type in (abs ring) in the search forums box you will find all you need there

Hi there I see this is your first post so welcome to the site. The kit I got was on ebay (dieselheaters4u) it was advertised as an upgrade kit for a D5WZ Ebersp

Here here, it's good to hear positive remarks about the booster heater and not just wanting to disconnect it because they are having a problem with it. Just to add what you said about bridging the sensor connector with a fuse you could add a switch in the bridging and run it back into the car for easier control, I bought a kit for mine so I can run the heater and warm the car without the engine running, it has a 7 day timer to control on and off times very useful when you finish work at 2am last thing you want to be doing is scraping the windows at that time :16:

You youngsters what are you like :16:

All the best Mark, keep up the good work. Cheers :wacko:

Hi there Removal of the condenser is best done by removing front bumper and grill, it will require that you cut a small section from the support to allow the condenser to pass through. If that price is including a re-gas then that's reasonable, mine was done 4 years ago for

Thats strange I didn't see the ball for 10 attempts :wacko:

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Hi there The coil packs are the most likely cause of your problem, also check the wiring loom on the engine for crumbling insulation (bare wires).

Hi there Yes those instructions are good for all models, also other members have drilled into the spindle housings and pumped lubricant in that way. I personally prefer to take the whole motor and linkage off and strip it down, you can clean then off the spindles which get badly corroded and re-grease linkages and bushes, also good opportunity to change pollen filter as its a bugger to do otherwise

Hi there There has been a few problems with the site lately, try Gregers, Bigjeeze, they are here regularly

Hi Paul Can only suggest try it and see, it may give you a lenthy reprive but is usually only a temporary repair.

Hi there If cleaning the idle valve doesn't improve the problem check out the throttle position sensor,also check throttle cable and butterfly housing, also check engine wiring harness to the various components as there have been reports of bare and crumbling wiring insulation which may cause your symptoms

Hi BJ Sorry mate I cant agree with you on that, you have only to read the warnings on any air-con systems, I think we can say without doubt that leaks in the system account for most of the problems associated with the A/C system, but unless it's blatently obvious where the leak is the system will need pressurising which then involves the use of specialist tools and equipment, even changing a simple thing like one of the pipes you have spring lock couplings to release, yes a reasonably capable person may be able to remove/replace certain components but they will still need someone to at least regas the system, and I wouldn't advise another member to do something that may compromise safety. Leave it to the expert thats got all the gear + you get a gaurantee on their work

Hi BJ Will try and answer best I can, no I do not work for A/C specialist check my profile about me. I had the issues with my local garage who I have used for 30 years doing my MOT tests and still do. They got a new all singing bells and whistles fully automatic machine for servicing the A/C system, just about the same time I got my galaxy so I said I best have mine done at a cost of

Hi there Although it's not unheard of evaporator leaks are less common than leaks from condenser and drier and even fractured pipes, common bad experiences of members using Kwik fit pop in places, your best action would be to find a specialist auto air-con company most are mobile and will come to you and are very reasonable on their pricing, they will also explain how it all works if you want to know.

Have you looked at the wiring as said at the beginning

Hi there Sounds like thermostat and/or the rubber gasket around the stat, allowing coolant to pass around it.

Hi there Have you cleared this fault code and run the car again? it may be an old fault and not connected with your problem. Is the air-con actually working either before or after re-gas, flashing panel usually triggered by 3 way pressure switch by either to little or to much gas, assuming all fuses are OK? there are a lot of fuses covering different parts of the system. When you run Vag-com on climate module only do you get "no faults found" as a result, not a comms error instead.

Hi there You didn't say who re-gassed your system im guessing it was kwik fit or similar? you hear of regular disasters from these places, your much better off in the long term to go to an auto air-con specialist. They will remove and measure any refrigerant left in the system, vacuum system, leak test, and not till then if everythings OK refill with the correct amount of refrigerant and oil. After you had the system emptied did they give you your money back?

Hi there Looking at the TIS manual on the MK2 (doesn't show MK1) air-con needs to be drained :P as the refrigerant pipes have to be disconnected to remove the housing then remove matrix

Hi there May also be the auxiliary belt tensioner has lost it's spring tension :(