chrispb123456

But what does this 'switch' do? Is it actually a switch or a sensor??? The switch is to raise the idle speed of the engine when maneuvering at low speed. EG. parking

Will be interesting to see the outcome, lets have some piccys

Dripping from what may give a clue.

I was going to suggest seized alternator clutch pulley you have posted in the mk3 section but you have 1.9 in your profile can you confirm?

Um that is strange unless there's a blockage in the air filter/inlet. How long since last cam belt change? & service etc, just trying to build a picture of how the car has been looked after. Stored fault codes may also help with diagnosis.

Ah right, thats the air charge pipe, instead of removing pipe try disconnecting MAP sensor from the pipe and see if it starts?

Not sure what you mean by big oil pipe? The turbo not working for what ever reason would not stop the engine starting!! Did he check for any stored fault codes? Sounds more likely timing is out!!

Answers to your questions. 1. Does the ecu have the boost pipe going into it? No not on the Mk 2 the MAP sensor is attached directly to the air charge pipe, you would need to tap into this pipe or drill and tap the inlet manifold. 2. I tapped into the pipe that goes to the egr, but that didnt seem to do anything, The EGR valve works on vacuum not pressure!! 3. and I could see one ecu box there, but didnt know if that was the one or if it was for the ABS. The ABS module is mounted to the hydraulic control unit behind the engine coolant bottle

You say the cars been off the road for a year, whats the battery been doing all this time and how old is the battery? I'm guessing the battery has been left on the car while not being used, if that's the original battery then it's probably knackered.

Can concur the engine ECU is behind the battery. For live data and all other diagnostics you need to get a Vagcom/VCDS interface cable (under £10 from ebay) then download the free software and other info from ross tech http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAG-GROUP-USB-COM-PORT-OBD2-II-KKL-ECU-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-LEAD-WORK-VCDS-LITE-409-/271036790042?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3f1b0d351a http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/download/index.html

manual transmissions have a flywheel, auto's have a flexiplate this just unbolts from the crank the same way you unbolt a flywheel.

I was in two minds whether I was going to like this car after the MK1 & 2, I agree with all you have said, that unnatural angle of pulling the handbrake it's so awkward, and pulling away have never stalled a vehicle so much as this one. Seats not that inviting although the fold flat idea for myself is brilliant as I constantly need the loadspace for the scooter and then up with the seats without having to remove them. Give it time I think you will grow to like it but do think it should have been called or named different, not a Galaxy don't compare it to the old Galaxy. :)

Don't forget if you jack one wheel up and then rock the wheel with it in gear your taking up the slack through the whole of the transmission right through to the clutch, the clutch plate has cushion springs which allow movement to smooth the gear changes

You may need to clean the sensor in the bottle if it's slugged up with radweld, the wires on the switch have been known to break off aswell.

No codes on the pump or injectors, all rear calipers are the same between variants of the Mk1 & 2 but they are sided

No that doesn't make sense unless the key was missing from the pump which I doubt. It has to be the camshaft slipping on the cam sprocket. I know Seatkid's going to kill me for suggesting this but I think I would be inclined to put some loctite on the taper prior to refitting sprocket and setting timing, but making sure the taper is oil/grease free and tightened to the correct torque 45Nm or 35Ib.ft should suffice. I do have one of those universal sprocket holding tools which is a must for this operation. torquing up the crank is done by locking the starter ring gear

Would say it's got to be virtually impossible for the timing to go out if all keyway are in place and sprockets tight, in what way is the marks not aligned, crank to cam or crank to pump. Are you sure the camshaft sprocket is tight? there is no keyway on the camshaft, the taper is what locks the sprocket to the cam providing the bolt is tight (45 Newton metres)

What is the error message your getting?

You really need to check vacuum hoses to the turbo, and the air charge hoses + intercooler, have you tried working the actuator on the turbo incase it's stuck up.

Are you saying the coil light comes on after switching on ignition or after starting engine

On it's own the link on the motor coming loose will not cause the wipers to hit one another, this is either wear in the linkage, a seizing spindle, or a wiper arm nut loose.

Yep clear the codes and go for a drive then recheck as disconnecting these sensors with engine running would register a fault. Are you due a cam belt change as this would be my first port of call.

Check out that outside temperature, are you inside the arctic circle :38: :16:

Ah Ha then you may have some dodgy wiring in the door gaiters.

Yep 115ps is the AUY code.