chrispb123456

Have a look here http://www.forum.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-reference-library/galaxy-accelerator-pedal-removal-and-cleaning-(vcds-fault-code-00777-18047)/msg4976/#msg4976

You may need to clean your throttle position sensor, remove throttle pedal unit from car remove three or four screws that hold the cover on, remove cover and clean rubbing track with switch cleaner leave to air dry then refit.

I'd be very much surprised if it's covered in any service on any car, they will advise you to have it done but it will be your choice, and of course at extra cost.

You may do better by getting yourself a vagcom/VCDS cable and collect some live data, should give you more of a clue to what's going on.

The battery fuse box supplies power to the central fuse box and relays in the car Have a look at the pictures in this excellent post on another site, you may need to register to view the photo's. http://www.forum.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-reference-library/battery-junction-boxauxiliary-fuse-box-repair/

I've got one of these http://www.emanualonline.com/Cars/Ford/Ford-S_Max-Workshop-Repair-And-Service-Manual.html

Are you 100% positive about the battery fuse box look carefully at the two black cable crimps,

If it's a clicking ticking noise it's the dosing pump under the floor by the diesel tank

You need to get some penetrating fluid on the gearbox turret or you can remove the turret and do it off the car, the shaft gets corroded and seizes up (common fault)

VW part number is 7M 0919040C http://www.partsbase.org/parts/vw-7m0919040c/

I think that one you need to get from the dealer

Only Mk2 cars have the battery fusebox

There's a lug on the top of the tensioner that you can fit an open ended spanner to pull the tensioner over till the two holes under the tensioner line up, you can then place a suitable size pin or drill bit to lock it in place while you deal with the belt.

Also check the bracket for the air charge pipe is present on the sump, as it may not have the drillings for it, although it can probably be swapped over with your old one.

Four speed is VW Five speed is Jatco both use a VW controller and will talk to VCDS Auto box ECU is on passenger side inner wing next to battery

Depends what charger your using, the new type smart charger you can leave the leads connected. http://www.ctekchargers.co.uk/ If you have the old type charger you need to disconnect the earth lead

The Toby Carvery looks nice :31:

Am sure it is posted on here somewhere, is definitely on the other popular sites. Low profile tyres allways going to be very precise on the steering but down on the comfort, that coupled with the hard seats gives an uncomfortable ride on some of our not so good A roads. Talking about spare wheels do we really need one, can agree with all the for an against arguments but in reality I had my MK2 for nearly 8 years now it's been passed down to my eldest daughter, in that time the spare wheels only been off the car once to fit the towbar. The Mk3 has had a slow puncture which I lived with for a few months but as it's a Motability car and has just had a new tyre fitted by kwik fit for nothing (all part of the Motability scheme) so personally I would go without the spare, tyre company's are all geared up to do roadside/home changes, alright it may cost you if your unlucky enough to get a flat, but carrying a spare wheel in the back with a jack and wheel brace clanking about cause there's no real place for it for me is a no no.

On top of inlet manifold held on by two bolts and one electrical connector

I wont hold my breath though :rolleyes:

Is anyone experiencing problems uploading photo's, keep getting server error

The largest one that fits in the carrrier is a type 017 100amp hour 900 cca

That cable will be fine, you don't need to register the software to do general stuff like checking and clearing fault codes, be warned if you do register and get full functionality you can render your car undriveable by altering certain settings.

Never actually tried a D3WZ on a MK 2, what I can tell you is the D3 controller is dumb and has no connection to the cars diagnostics and is a lower output 3kw as opposed to 5kw

MK1 or MK2