Bigjeeze

I have e mailed Mcgard asking if they can help. Any advice as to where to look for these numbers? I have all of the original docs for the car.?

Yes that is the correct one - But I was hoping to source it in Europe at least!!!

Not that simple - it's an internal spline you can't hammer a socket onto it. I have managed to get one off using a removal socket but then I can't get the socket off again.,

I need to replace my locking wheel nut key - it is an original VW one with number 52 - No one seems to do these nay more = Does anyone have one I could buy?

I lost the spring clips that stop the front brake pads from rattling - that seems to be the source of noise - Just to test the theory try braking gently as you go over a bump and see if the noise disappears. I went to get new clips but at £16.00 each from Ford I'll just ignore the noise!!

It sounds like the intermediate drive shaft I have done this twice on my car now - Once at 103k miles and the second at 200k ( I replaced it before it went!) I used the Polish kit this time.

Thanks for that. No it's not the same on the Mk2 - I have now fixed it with some help from Mirez. Basically it was an adjustment on the cable that you do from the gearbox end. There was a video on you tube which shows you how to do it. It is really simple. (once someone tells you how!)

I replaced my clutch slave about 5ooo miles ago. Last night I lost gears except for 5th & 6th. Got it home and I found that one of the selector cables had popped out of it's bracket - Replaced it and I have all gears except reverse. I am assuming I have changed an adjustment or similar - but can't work out how to sort it Any ideas please?

I haven't done one on the MK1 but I think it is the same as the MK2 - and you cannot remove the flywheel etc without taking the box off. It is very heavy so be careful.

I have changed one on my diesel - mI imagine it is a similar process. It worked fine for me.

It does take around four hours - most of the time is getting to the timing belt. The fitting of the belt etc is quite straighforward - just remember as said to be accurate with your marks.

Sounds like the alternator belt has gone. It also drives power steering air con etc - but surprised that it won't start - Maybe it's been slipping allowing the battery to lose charge. Anyway the belt is your first port of call.

Check condition of the power steering belt and make sure it isn't slipping. You can also check the alternator pulley - this can sometimes give an unusual effect like this when it starts to lock up the wrong way. Have a look in the FAQ's

Have a look in the FAQs it tells you how to change it there.

A) could be air con is required on. B) More likely to be a blocked or soaked cabin filter. When that gets wet or blocked it lets wet air in. You might also check that you have no lwaterleaks anywhere.

Do a search for fusebox issues - SOmetimes this can be a problem - It's the one under the bonnet on the right not the one in the car.

I had the same issue on my mk2 this year - I had it welded and also the plates that the front suspension is bolted to were looking dodgy so they were patched and welded also. Strangely there isn't any rust anywhere else.

In fact this is a common misconception - Many people have changed these bearing unnecessarily because MOT testers don't read their own instructions. It is actually quite rare for these bearings to be shot. It is far more likley to be either track rod steering rack or bottom joints - or even the arb bushes.

You can use an air line on the low pressure side if you have the correct fitting - I got mine from one of those self fill cans ( complkete with gauge) so once the pipe is repaired you can pressuries the system - apporx 30psi is OK and if it doesn't leak then go ahead and re gas. BUT don't use the compressor ie keep it on econ you are only testing for a leak you don't want to run it.

Yep I'll echo that I did mine a while ago.

Can anyone confirm that you need the outside temp switch for the air con to work - and that the switch is the same one used to trigger the aux heater?

Get a second opinion - then see about doing it yourself if the diagnosis is confirmed.

Sean , you could of course do the other thing and take your car to a dealer - where you will no doubt get the attention you deserve. There are no guarantees on here - this is just a forum not a garage. You get what you pay for here - Oh - that's nothing! So you shouldn't feel short changed then.

I changed mine back in January but because I had regularly oiled the tops I had no trouble at all in removing the nuits. I changed the top mounts (even though there was nothing wrong with the old ones!!) to please an incompetent MOT tester. The shocks were fine and went back on even with 175k on the clock!

There really is a problem when a dealer doesn't have the capability ot ensure the correct lift of a car!