Masked Marauder

It just unbolts at each end.

It is on the firewall to the rear right of the engine and has some thin black fiber covered hoses connecting to it. If there is a problem with it it is most likely the hoses.

Either a sticky spindle or the motor controller has got wet. Do a search using the search button above and all will be explained.

Quite simply because they have not done the fluid change correctly and introduced air into the system. This could be because they let the system run dry whilst changing the fluid, or they used fluid that was contaminated or had become aerated. The fluid needs to be changed every two years because the fluid both degrades with age, and can absorb water from the atmosphere. That water then corrodes the inside of brake components and so changing the fluid is preventative maintenance. There are people who insist that the boiling point of the fluid should be checked and only topped up if required, but at what point in the system do the recover the fluid for the boiling point check from?

Yes that is the correct term for it.

Yes, single fuse supplies both rear outlets.

How wrong can you be! http://secunia.com/product/4932/?period=2005#advisories

Try having an assistant pull the bonnet up whilst you pull the cable. If that works then look for two rubber stops on the slam-bar and screw them out so it will pop the bonnet.

The only hose onto the servo that can be changed is from the engine or vacuum pump to the servo. If the fault is with the servo then the whole servo needs replaced.

Thats because it is under the driver's seat....

I see cars that are out the factory with windows that simply can not be legal. How they are getting round the Type Approval regulations I have no ideal!

OK, well first we need to work out why it is not working. Is the radiator getting really hot? If not then either the thermostat is not opening or the water pump has failed. If the radiator is getting really hot then the thermostat/pump should be OK, do you have aircon? If so, turn it on. Are the fans still not working? If they are then it is the thermostatic switch on the radiator that is faulty, or the wires to it. If not then check the fuse. If the fuse is fine then check the relay. If the fan is working with the aircon on or you have no aircon then unplug the switch and bridge the connector terminals with a paperclip. Still not working? Then it is either the wiring or the motor. Unplug the power connector to the fan and patch 12V straight from the battery to the motor connection. If it still does not work then the motor is goosed. If it does then there is a fault in the wiring somewhere.

Well if your keen to use a gauge John and your over my way, just ask!

Wellllllllll, tbh Mine was not working because the adapter for it would not push the valve down, so I used mine on my tyre to test it and it went up to 44psi. Which is the pressure in the front tyre... And with the adapter off it looks a lot like a tyre pressure gauge..... And as long as the tyre pressure gauge goes high enough, and you can get a good enough seal...... May well be worth a try.... But remember, low side only, engine running, air con on. I think on your model it is near the compressor, the high side is to the left of the battery box and has a black cap on it and is bigger than the low side.

It sounds like a leak on the pedal side of the vacuum servo to me. This is confirmed by the loss of vacuum when left with the engine off. Otherwise it is working fine, but it is likely to get worse.

You measure the suction side of the air con with the air con running. It is better refered to as the "Low Pressure" side. The guide says that you should have between 22 and 44psi on the gauge, that is at normal UK type temperatures! The gauge just presses on to the low pressure connector. The guage on the site is a replacement for the ones on hose sets, you would also need a suitable hose connected to it.

When does it hiss? All the time? If you stop the engine and go back in a half an hour is the pedal stiff? If the engine is off and you pump the pedal until it goes stiff, hold it down and start the engine does the pedal drop further?

OK, fitted the new switch, no difference, so it looks like I need VAG-COM. Been meaning to buy if for a while now, but when I had the money before, my timing belt snapped and the

Will be going for my ne

Ditto! with my 1998 Alhambra! Will send you the full fuse gen in PDF format in an hour or so!

http://trevor.dynip.com/images/post1997.75_topcjb.gif

Is yours a post August 97 model? If so it will have a row of mini-fuses at the top left of the fuse box and your looking for fuse 53, it is 10 amp and the third down from the top. My 98 Alhambra has the wrong fuse box information, it has the pre 1997

When the brake light switch plays up and sets the glow plug light flashing, do you have to press the brake pedal first, or does the light just start flashing after the engine has been running for about 30 seconds? TIA!