Masked Marauder

Do you have a little black dome above your rear view mirror and another at the back of the car above the hi-level brake light?

I doubt it. My heater restarted without the need to clear fault codes.

Did you re-condition the head or was it someone else? The valve stem tops where the cotters fit in are very sharp on VW engines, and if you don't use a guide it is very easy to tear the soft faces on the stem seals when you push them over the valve.

I don't understand what you are on about Jeff? If the switch does as you say and stops the air-con working if the switch is closed (below 4 or 10 degrees) then having the fuse in the connector would disable the air-con. So why was my air-con working all through the summer? The fuse was in then too. In any case my wiring diagram shows that the switch is only connected on the air-con on the V6 petrol engine. All other references to the switch are either for the booster or independent heating (a more advanced version of the booster heater) on diesels. On the V6 it is part number 1H0 959 625 and it is between the thermal switch on the engine and compressor electro-magnetic clutch. The switch type is normally closed and allows power to flow through it unless the temperature is below 4 degrees when it opens and breaks the circuit. On diesel engined models with the additional heater the switch (part number 701 959 625) is between either the clock or the alternator and the heater, and is open preventing current flowing through it unless the temperature is below 10 degrees, when it closes and completes the circuit to the booster heater telling it to start. So to surmise, 2 different engines, two different switches, two different functions.

ETOS, a trade only VAG electronic parts catalogue.

The old part number is 1J0 965 561 A but the VW/SEAT dealer will get the new one if you quote that. Which is the same part number as the additional pump for the booster heater in case your looking in a breakers yard. The price?

We have had the kids' bunkbeds folded down in the back, but they have full size matresses and matress frames and we could shut the back door no problems, much to the amazment of our Zafira owning childminder........ I have also had a pre-hung double glazed front door in there and that is over 6 foot 6 inches tall.

I will vouch for the mesh kit. I have used that in the past.

What does the 10A fuse do? The fuse means the booster heater will always work regardless of the outside temperature. It then cuts out once the coolant is warmed up. I put it there as I found that during the winter if there was any prolonged idling with he heating on full then the engine could not sustain the heating, but as the sensor is in the engine compartment with the hot engine the booster did not work!

Yep, the gearbox has to come off. Quite frankly I would put up with the bearing unless it was screaming at me.

Yes, that is far too soon for both the fans to fail. Normally a screech from the clutch housing when the clutch is pressed is a dry release bearing.

Clean the grease off the door hinges or battery terminals etc.

I have a DVD sitting on my desk awaiting posting with your name on it chap....

Well the red key should have a rectangular plug in the top, you prise that out and there is the chip. With the torch key, you prise the top off the key and the chip is in the horse-shoe shaped bit of the key.

If your taking off the housing then all you have to do is unbolt the pump from the housing, take the old one off and replace the gasket and bolt the new one on. An extra 10 minutes. If you are doing it the other way with the timing belt and backing plate off then you won't be removing the housing.

this is the sensor on the PD engine: http://www.bigtrucker.co.uk/gifs/pd_temp_sensor.gif

. .4yearTDi_PD_Auto.pdf

Shorts has bought a new lock set so one key will do everything as at the moment he is using a cluster of keys! So he wants to remove the programed transponders and put them into his new keys.

Section 9, electrical systems. electronic control unit for anti-locking brake system-abs- speed sensor Open the parts group and the sensors are in there.

I never removed the timing belt when I did mine, I removed the alternator, air-con compressor and hung it out of the way, air-con compressor/alternator mounting bracket, power steering pump, drive belt etc, and then the pump housing. It took hours and thats with air tools and ramps.

The ABS loom is shown as a complete unit and only the actual connectors are available as parts.

No, that pump will not do for your engine chap. Pumps are not expensive though, from a factor your looking at about

:angry: B) :lol: Oh aye, but don't go trying to pull caravans with it..........

cough...eMule...