Masked Marauder

The kit is available as an add-on from Webasto. It should be available from Ford as an option on a new vehicle.

The coolant always goes through the matrix anyway, all the controls do is direct the airflow over the matrix. To change the coolant remove the bottom hose from the radiator and the pipe to the rear heater from the front to rear pipe and allow the coolant to drain. COOLANT IS HIGHLY TOXIC AND PETS AND KIDS LOVE THE SWEET TASTE. Please take extreme care as as little as a tablespoon full can kill a cat or small dog. Hose away any spills with lots of water and dispose of the drained coolant correctly. Next put the hoses back on and fill the system with water, leave the expansion bottle cap off and run the engine until it is warm, but not hot. Drain as before. Replace the hoses. Finally pre-mix your coolant one part water to one part antifreeze. Make sure the antifreeze is the same colour as the system was previously filled with. Don't mix violet and green anti-freeze as they are different types. You will need 4.6 litres of antifreeze and 4.6 litres of water. Fill the system, leave the cap off the expansion bottle, start the engine and run it hot, until the radiator fans cut in (make sure the air-con is off) topping the expansion bottle up as required.

I think it is a psychiatrist you really need... :angry: :angry: I know NOTHING of factory fitted hi-fi, sorry!

Talking to your self is a sign of madness you know.....

It is a connector with five or so wires on it and it is plugged into a spare socket on the left hand side the existing stalk.

At last! We pre-2001 owners can have something that post 2000 owners can't!

When you say the fans run all the time, they will if you have aircon switched on or if you have Climate Control, the temperature on the climate control is set below the outside temperature.

Your having a laugh, aren't you? Steve, is that you?

Sounds like ingress to me, most likely sweat if it has not been dropped into water. As for proving that it was Ford before you got the car then your on an uphill struggle. Any settlement you get from Ford should be seen as a bonus. And I agree, under normal use, keys in pocket etc, the unit should be reasonably water-tight. But again you have to prove the goods are not fit. If I was sneaky I would buy the new one from a different dealer and then clean the knackered board up and change the insides over, then take the new one back and get it replaced as faulty when bought, and then pimp the replacement new one on here or eBay.... But I don't suggest you do that as that would be dishonest...

Mine is a Nokia CK1W and the pass code is not 0000. The CK7W may be different though.

With mine I put the control unit behind the glove box, the mic wire I ran up the passenger side "A" pillar, across the top of the screen under the edge of the head lining and a couple of inches down the drivers "A" pillar. The speaker is behind the panel for the fuse box and the control button (my phone is bluetooth) I routed up through the surround for the heater controls etc. It all made for a tidy installation. Do you have the 4 digit bluetooth pass code? If not I think it is the last 4 digits of the serial number. If any doubts, let me know as I know a couple of phone installers who will know for sure where it is.

The only thing Ford on his car is the badges. VAG-COM will fully work with his car, although mine, and other peoples, will not communicate with the aux heater.

My 6 year old son took this one and insists I post it!

Smoking is incomplete combustion. The pipe does go into the sill, and thats where it ends, just inside the sill. It is a straight-through pipe with no filters etc. The most likely cause of your problem is a faulty glow plug, a revised, hotter version of which is used on the higher heat output models of the heater. As the MOF has pointed out, your best bet is to use the search button, but note you have to change the default settings or it will only look for posts made over the last week.

You missed 3 screws? Not like you to miss a screw....

Well what ever they change I would insist on being given the old one for independent inspection. Tell them that today if you can. Even if your not going to get the failed parts inspected it will focus their minds a bit.

I have VAG-COM and no lap-top. I hook it up with a 10 metre USB extension lead!

When it has been parked in their warm dry workshop, or did they leave it outside?

Typical woman that, got to have the last word....

Yes it is, but you will need the four digit immobilizer security code for your car. You get that by using VAG-COM to read the immobilizer serial number and requesting a code from your dealer, and they will fight you tooth and nail, but they must provide it. You will need the V5, proof of who you are etc. Or you may be lucky and find the four digit code on the vehicle documents from when it was delivered new if you have them. The code was sometime supplied with the keys on a little tag. And the code may be 5 digits, but starting with a 0xxxx

The single pipe should go to the air-intake pipe, the one that is at 90 degrees to the solenoid at the end with the 2 connectors goes to the vacuum source (a tee-piece between the pump and the sphere) and the pipe that comes straight out the side with 2 connectors goes to the turbo.

Good find, that is the first time I have seen a kit on sale to the general public.

Do you have a vacuum sphere? If not then the vacuum must be from a Tee-piece somewhere, just follow the pipe from the vacuum pump.

It is giving symptoms of a gasket breech between a cylinder and the water jacket, you need the coolant chemically tested for exhaust gas.

NO. It is fine for a MOT as long as the bumper is not likely to fall off.