Masked Marauder

No, it does not have an EPC.

Is that a 2 foot tall child when your looking for boxes that are seven feet up in the air? The new boxes are about 12 foot up and harder to catch your eye btw. It is far easier to learn how not to speed to be honest.

A married man was having an affair with his secretary. One day, their passions overcame them and they took off for her house, where they made passionate love all afternoon. Exhausted from the wild sex, they fell asleep awakening around 10.00 pm. As the man threw on his clothes, he asked the woman to get some chalk and rub it behind his right ear. Mystified, she nonetheless complied. He slipped into his coat and drove home. Where have you been!" demanded his wife when he entered the house. "Darling, I can't lie to you. I've been having an affair with my secretary, and we've been having sex all afternoon. I fell asleep and didn't wake up until 10.00pm." The wife glanced up at his ear and said, "You lying bastard! You've been up the pub playing darts!!"

Press and hold the trip until it changes I think.

http://www.bigtrucker.co.uk/images/grannyle4us4qo.jpg

That is exactly the symptoms of the glow plug, it tries to start, the fan spins about a 1/4 of a turn and it stops. The temperature switch is clipped to the frame of the wiper linkage near the pollen filter. http://www.bigtrucker.co.uk/images/heaterswitch.jpg

And do the wiper blades with it too.

My Bammer has a light. It's orange though, not red IIRC.

My server is down, it will be back up and running sometime over the next few days.

You can get these symptoms with a failed bearing but not normally the same on both sides.

No, don't even take the top off the bottle! When you change the oil in a VW TDi engine you can not get all the old oil out, half a litre or so stays in. This means any flushing oil or product will contaminate the new oil in too high a concentration to be safe with the high pressure in the PD engine.

:lol: what? If you re-fit an old switch you have to pull the pin out before you fit it.

You don't press the pedal down when fitting, that is the point. It sets it's self to the hight of the pedal when the pedal is not being pressed down, so that when the pedal is pressed down it activates the switch. It is necessery to re-set the switch if you replace one that has previously fitted though.

No there not, they are cut using a special drill bit type device. Any Timpsons Shoe Repairers will do it for

:lol: :o :P :lol:

It is definately a Ford engine and VAG-COM will not speak to it. The Dis-Packs on these engines are known to crack and arc out, to check for that try running the car in the dark and look at the engine for sparking between the dis-pac and the engine.

I thought of that, but his car is a 03.

Are you loosing fluid? If you are then suspect the slave cylinder seals, if not then the master cylinder seals.

The ticking is the metering pump for the auxiliary heater. I have no idea about the other problem though.

Check the plastic panel along the front, just under the windscreen the bit the wiper arms come through. It is only held on with thin clips and they break off. Failing that, when driving down the road press the top front cormer of the doors and see if the noise changes.

Your know-it-all neighbour would be wrong then, your engine has a chain, not a timing belt. Is it a mechanical clattering or just poor running? If it is poor running then check for air leaks in the engine intake.

Your fudging the issue, he actually asked will it have to go on the dealers computer to be reset and you said yes, the switch needs to be reset. In actuality the switch twists in and that sets it. So you were wrong on both counts.

I never had to clear any fault codes when I changed mine. Fault code was there, changed it, hooked up VAG-COM again, fault code was gone.

I didn't come on it. Thats just coffee splashes on my monitor.

CONTENT WARNING ON THE LINK - Naked breasts! http://www.shockabsorber.co.uk/bounceometer/shock.html