Masked Marauder

Added to FAQs!

I have been doing it since I was 18, so a few years now. I am yet to have a wheel fall off.

Forget "Drilling Out" that is just what they say to push the price up. What you really use is a reverse helix socket that screws it's self onto the locking nut and then spins it off. http://www.premiertools.co.uk/cat111_1.htm http://www.premiertools.co.uk/usrimage/tlwset.jpg That is an expensive set, you can get a set that does 17mm &19mm (the most common nut sizes) from motor factors or (gulp) Halfords.

Mum Of 4 has no equal!

The timing pullies can slip on a TDi as there is no Woodruf key, simply a tapered pully seat. It is a known problem, I would suggest you don't use your car until it has been checked as valve and piston damage can occur if it has slipped.

The ECU sets the turbo to blow at a pressure, if the pressure detected by the pressure sensor is not what the ECU demands then you get this error. So your looking for leaking vacuum hoses to the turbo or a post turbo air leak. If it is not either of those then check the connector to the sensor and that the sensor is not clogged with oil.

If you only have one button then the fob is a torch, not a remote.

What colour is the smoke? Black - Too much fuel/not enough air White - Injection or valve timing is out Blue - Burning oil

I doubt it is the rings. How many miles has the engine done? You will get a bit of crankcase pressure anyway. Could be a faulty MAF. It is the round pipe straight after the air filter box in the induction. Unplug the sensor and see if it is the same, worse or better. If it is the same or better then the MAF has died.

I don't know where the word "Moderator" came from in The Register's piece, the actual ruling refers to the provider of web based forums being liable.

Not actually correct chap, they have to send it so that allowing for normal postal times you would receive it within 14 days from the date of the offence. Believe it or not, that is it. If it goes missing in the post your still nicked, they only have to send it.

Some strident environmentalists will happily make the effort or pay the prices. And it gives off as much CO2 as regular diesel, it is just that it is CO2 that has been absorbed from the atomosphere in the current time, so you are not releasing CO2 from fossil sources.

You won't see gloating from me.

In my past experience "Live Chat" with a woman is about

110Kw is 150PS. 96Kw is 130PS.

Aye, the configuration of the pins is different on them all. Get a tyre fitter to spin them off with a reverse helix socket and get some Halfords ones, they are really good.

I can fill a box or two too......

I don't either. :angry:

Yes, but where do you get the pricing info from?

Not in my Alhambra, but I have in my Peugeot engined Rover 115D and it ran very well, with only a "frying tonight" smell the difference.

OK, there is as much mis-information on here as information. In Wiltshire the ACPO (NOT government) guidelines are used, so you will be prosecuted or offered a Fixed Penalty if your speed is limit + 10% + 2mph or more. So in a 30 you get done for doing 35mph or over. There are now five principle types of fixed cameras: The Gatsometer (Gatso.) Currently the most common fixed camera. This works by RADAR and can be detected by some RADAR detectors. It takes photos of the REAR of your vehicle using a white flash which flashes twice. Although they have been designed for use taking pictures from the front too, they can not be used for this in the UK as they do not have Home Office Type Approval. This camera type can be set to catch only large vehicles and is used for this where HGV speed limits are lower than cars. This camera uses film. The Truvelo Combi. This works by inductive loops in the road and can not be picked up by detectors. It takes a single photograph of the front or rear of the vehicle using a magenta flash to help prevent dazzling the driver. People will tell you they are digital and don't flash. They are not and they do. SPECs. These are average speed cameras. They work by reading your front numberplate when you enter the SPECs zone and again when you leave. The distance between the two points is known and your average speed calculated. They have no need for film and don't flash and work night and day, although their use can be hampered by bad weather. RLC 36 red light camera. Uses inductive loops to detect vehicles crossing the white line after the light turns red, it uses a conventional film to record two pictures 1 second apart of the rear of the vehicle. Redspeed Digital Enforcement system. Again inductive loop technology these babies are type approved for speed and red light infringements. They take 3 photos of the rear of your vehicle, are digital and up-linking the pictures and evidence data to the operators. Totally maintenance free these devices work 24/7/52 with no human intervention. http://www.redspeed-int.com/en/products_redspeed.htm Mobile vans use a Video which runs constantly with the laser data superimposed onto it. When the operator detects an offending vehicle the video frame is marked and a print out of the frame obtained. The system can not be used in the dark or bad weather. Vehicles can be recorded at upto 300metres from the front or rear. If you get 6 points within 2 years of passing your test your pass is void. You are not banned, you just need to resit your test, but the six points stay on your licence. Get caught agin within the 2 years with 6 points on and guess what? Your test is void again! Your not disqualified still, but the points stay on! Get 12 points on totting up though and you get a ban and the points are no longer counted.

The front and front sides are already tinted (allbeit slightly) from the factory. You can't stick on any tint on the front anyway. Front sides are pretty much out too as the lowest tint will make them not legal. Anything back from the "B" pillar you can do what you like with.

Nah, just joking.....