edatelder

If you wear rubber gloves you might be able to turn it by hand. It should not be done up too tight, there is a good big O ring to keep in the oil.

Your local motor factor / shop should have a few types. Comma make a "Diesel PD" oil that is quite a good price.

There have been loads of threads on this over the years. The little door in the wheel is meant for side light changing access but people say you need a small hand and lots of patience. The easiest way is to carefully remove the whole headlight unit using a long torx (star head) screwdriver. Only takes about 5 minutes. Put it back in the same position as it came from so the headlight alignment is not messed up.

Must have rubbed on something. Look underneath the car at the pipes while someone turns the steering from side to side - with the engine on (be careful!)

Go to the technical section main index page and in the "search forum" box at the bottom of the page enter "bonnet release". You get lots of threads where people have had the same problem on Mk Is

Couple of problems. The socket will be quite expensive as you are buying a big piece of chromium plated steel. The chain wrench might crack the plastic dome. Its possible to do it gently I suppose down at the lowest part where the threads are to give more strength. Have you tried it wearing rubber gloves? They give more grip.

Remember to remove the dipstick before "yanking" the cover off! Don't use a chain wrench or shove a screwdriver through it as the "case lid" is plastic and has to be reused. Hopefully you'll be able to twist it off using one or two hands gripping tightly round it. Remove the old filter carefully as it will drip, have newspaper or a plastic bag ready. The two seals to change are on the plastic case lid. They are best removed carefully using a small screwdriver to prize them off. Screw up the lid hand tight. It shouldn't leak due to the rubber seal. Mine never does.

Looks too big to me

There is no fail safe/limp home mode in a light bulb. If the filament fails, the bulb fails.

It's because you are "newbie" to posting. You need to have made 5 or 10 posts before you can download attachments. Make a few posts here and there then retry.

I got a Kwikfit quote for my Corsa - pads & discs

It's best to carefully cut it out with a Stanley knife so you can remove it fully, hang it up vertically for a while to drain then put it in a warm place for week or so to thoroughly dry. You can also let the car floor pan area dry out too by folding back the carpet.

Mine was done in the autumn along with the back box by an exhaust place. No mention of problems. As long as you disconnect at all joints and maybe drop it off the rubber hangers it should "feed" out from above the axle easily enough (wait for warmer weather, or a nice workshop!)

If it takes that long it very likely that the heater not working, like mine. It really is an unreliable piece of kit on these Sharalxyhambras.

Read the thread "Aux Heater" on page 2 of the questions started by marinabird with 368 posts. Everything you need to know!

The brake light switch is mounted low down under the steering column and the "button" sticks out to push against the brake pedal arm. When you brake, the switch comes out and operates. You'll need to kneel down to get at it. But if your middle light is working the switch must be working. Have you tried changing one or two bulbs first? It's the easier job than changing the switch.

On April 3, 2007 in the long Alternator Workshop thread, they said a 16mm spanner would do the trick.

Yes, it does. It's supposed to heat the water in cooling circuit quicker than the engine does in the winter. If you read the thread you'll see it comes on when temperatures are low and the car water is below a certain temp. Most people's aux heaters seem to be bust. Mine is and the car takes 10 or more miles to warm up,

Put "alternator workshop" in Search Topic window and press search. Look at thread started by Jackthehat called "Alternator workshop" error? Noisy at idle, last entry 6 Oct by Taliska. It has 110 posts on the subject.

Shanda - as Stevie M says higher up this thread, pull out fuse 12 in the fuse box next to the steering column. That should stop the smoke.

You won't damage the car. It just won't heat the water as it's meant to and like me, you are in for a cold winter; at least for the first 10 miles every day.

1. glow plugs are used on diesel engines to pre warm the cylinders on starting 2. a glow plug is used on the auxillary heater on diesel engined cars to ignite fuel which heats up water in the "cooling system" when its cold - not used on petrol cars

True. I know the aux heater is well covered in these posts but its always looked a bit of complicated job. Its never worked for me on 2 Galaxys over the last 6 years! May try it given time. But the normal heater was OK in previous years, not hot or fast, but better than it is this week. I'll check the pollen filter. Maybe its wet or is blocked with leaves.

Yes. Thanks. The fan speed will go to MAX under manual control but thats not much good. It's snowing tonight and hardly any air/heat is coming through. I was thinking about the pollen filter. Could the heater matrix also be blocked as its 6 years old. Would a flushing fluid in the radiator help?

How many vent fans are there on a 2002 TDi with climate control? The output from mine is really low. But one fan (if there are more than one) is working, albeit slowly. With this cold weather now, the engine takes 10 miles, 15 minutes, to warm up enough to start any air output worth mentioning. Driving is a cold experience in winter! (Aux heater not working either). Should I check the fan fuses? Fan access is nigh on impossible behind the dash. On screen demist, or fan manual control, or HI temp or LO temp the fan works at full speed; but at 20, 21 degrees there's hardly any air flow. Could the controller be faulty?