MrT

The cans contents are fine, but you need the tap, connecting hose and possibly a pressure gauge as well which will work out near

Watch out what you pay for as you should really have it done properly. This means vacuuming out the system which removes any moisture, weighing the contents and refilling with gas and lube and even possibly a leak detecting UV dye. Some of the cheaper "refills" are merely adding a gas or gas/lube mixture until the pressure on the low side appears about right. You can do the cheaper version yourself with cans from Halfords but in my view this is only for an intermediate top-up or if you cannot afford to have a slowly leaking system fixed.

There seem to be seasonal post common every year. At the first touch of frost the new diesel owners ask about ticking noises and the jet powered chimney under the car. At the first sign of summer all new users ask about failing air conditioning.

I have checked out the rest of the coils and they appear to be OK but I was wondering if it is worth replacing the lot as the batch on the Galaxy are all those that VW considered should be recalled. If one has just gone, are the rest likely to follow suit in the near future? Two of the wiring plugs that fit to the coils retaining clips are cracked from where I had difficulty in separating them from the coils, they still hold the plugs securely but the clip part that you move to release them had come away so I now need to slide a thin piece of metal in to release them. I doubt that the wiring plugs can be replaced without buying a new ignition loom, not a problem for me, but I reckon when the car has its next service where the spark plugs need replacing, the garage will break the wiring plugs when trying to remove them from the coils. I am still on the original spark plugs at nearly 5 years old and they have clearly never been removed (or the coils). They look like miniature motorbike plugs from above. I have checked my previous service bills and have never been charged for spark plugs.

I have just read a very interesting article on the particular coil pack I have. In the USA VW recalled their cars because this particular version of coil pack was found to be faulty in manufacture. Obviously Ford in the UK did not bother and mine is identical in part number to the faulty version. Coil Pack Discussion More Coil Pack Discussions

The coil pack did come off and it was very wobbly. Swapped coil packs and the fault moved cylinder. Took the coil pack off again and it split into two pieces. I'll have to order another one.

How do these coil packs remove from the spark plugs? I tried pulling reasonably hard to no avail and did not pull very hard as I do not want to risk damaging the pack in case it is not the fault.

On holiday this week with the car very heavily loaded the car engine sounded rough and the engine management warning light came on. On examining it with VAG-COM I got the following faults: Control Module Part Number: 022 906 032 Q Component and/or Version: MOTRONIC ME7.1 G 0011 Software Coding: 00033 Work Shop Code: WSC 00020 2 Faults Found: 16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected P0300 - 35-00 - - 16685 - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected P0301 - 35-00 - - If I clear the faults, exactly the same faults re-appear, and cylinder 1 is the only one specifically mentioned. Has anyone had this before and what is there usually a simple cause? My first thoughts were HT Leads and spark plugs. Now I used to be a competent car mechanic 30 years ago in the days of points and distributors but I could not even find anything looking like HT leads on the engine. Now they must either be down the back, under some cover (not the plastic engine top cover) or have changed beyond all recognition. All I could find were six plastic pots filled with epoxy on top of each cylinder with four wires going to each. I thought these might be injectors but there are no pipes near them. I also found an air con fault: Control Module Part Number: 7M5 907 040 D Component and/or Version: CLIMATRONIC MPV GP 0003 Software Coding: 00030 Work Shop Code: WSC 00020 1 Fault Found: 00792 - A/C Pressure Switch (F129) 35-00 - - I somehow think this is going to be expensive. ;)

On my Mk2 the ESP is switchable from the bottom left of the big chunky buttons on the centre console. When you disable it or when it operates, you get an orange circle in the intrument cluster coming on. It seems to operate differently from my Mk1, on the Mk1 when the "traction control" operated, it sounded like someone was smashing away rapidly under the engine with a sledgehammer. On the Mk2 it is like the engine has died, which can be scary when pulling across a narrow gap in traffic.

If Miss Kent is the most beautiful lady in Kent, I am not going there for my holidays! :ph34r:

Mine shows three temperatures, the outside temperature, and the selected temperatures for the front and the back. The only one which is measured and displayed is the outside temperature and that is supposedly only accurate when you are moving. In fact the internal temperatures are measured as is the temperature of the air coming out of the vents, along with the intake temperature of the air, the compressor load, the coolant temperature, the cars speed and various other states in the air conditioning system. These are all calculated to provide the required internal temperature in the car. If you connect your car to Vag-com you can see all these readings.

It is perfectly normal behaviour that the climate control is no longer automatically controlling the cars internal temperature when set below 18C. Below this, the unit is just running constantly. Why do you want your cars internal temperature below 18C? The climate control is little different to any thermostat, it puts the heating or cooling on to change the internal temperature to the whatever you have set it at. If you are set to Auto and the internal temperature of the air in the car is below the setting of 18C at 12C, you will get hot air to warm it up to 18C. The only time the car will give cold air when the climate control is set to 18C is when the temperature inside the car is above 18C and it needs to cold air to cool it down to 18C.

It is even more embarrassing when you are not sitting in the drivers seat and try to swivel it, pull the height adjustment lever by mistake (can you remember which lever is which?) and the seat shoots up and hits you in the face. The kids found it very amusing.

Is there anyone there with a bit of time on their hands who would like to raise this issue with BBC Watchdog? I am sure this has been mentioned before.

The people who spoil forums usually do it for a response, just like little kids. If they are ignored and don't get responses, they usually go away to somewhere where they will get the attention they crave. So don't respond when you see a provocative post.

Do you always look so happy and inviting?

My climate control started flashing at me when I started the car after having not used it for about 6 weeks (the battery was connected to a slow trickle charger ~250mA). I got my VAG COM out and found two errors, probably not related: Address 08 Climatronic MPV GP 0003 00792 - A/C Pressure Switch (F129) 35-00 - - Address 09 Multifunkt.Einh 0001 01135 - Interior Monitoring Sensors 35-10 - - - Intermittent I cleared both errors and they have not re-occurred over the past few days. Is there any relationship between the faults and what do they mean, eg is the air-con low or high pressure?

It is not just the centre seat fixings to be considered, the existing two middle row seats have to move outwards towards the doors. I thought about this a while back and I got as far as finding out that there were not different floor pans listed for the six and seven seat models in the parts catalogue. I never got as far as taking the carpets up to have a look.

The ratings in the manual should be correct, just the positions seem to vary.

Having speakers with a massive wattage rating would not harm an amp. It would only be having speakers with a very low impedance that could draw too much current and damage the amplifier.

On my car it is the single purple wire going to a yellow plug in the back of the radio.

The 2001 Mk2 lost the "miles remaining" feature that the Mk1 had, a step backwards.

I cannot remember the exact layout on the Mk1 galaxy but where the wiper tray is on the Mk2 there is the back of the air filter and the air pipes to the engine. In this lot is the MAF sensor and they could have pulled the cable off it and this would produce the effects you have. A long shot, but I did the same when trying to route a cable through the bulkhead.

If I sit there with the engine running, footbrake hard on and put it into drive I can feel the car squat. If I hold it on the handbrake and either press or release the footbrake there is no change in engine rpm. Release the handbrake and it will start to move off. There is no change in rpm as it goes in or out of gear. In the garage with the door open you can hear a whirring sound when in drive and none in neutral. There are no VAG-COM errors on the car at all. Whether there are any differences between models I don't know, but this and the previous 2.8 Auto have always behaved the same. Only possible errors with my tests were the gearobx and engine were cold and the temperature in my garage was 3.5C.

The TIS says "The 5-speed automatic transaxle is equipped with a static cut-out which switches the transaxle to neutral when the vehicle is stationary and a drive range is selected. This eliminates vehicle ""creep