MrT

If it is a regular tick-tick sound from the wheels it could be something stuck in the tyres, anything from a nail to a small stone between the treads. I would check all your tyres thoroughly. If you describe the sound in more detail, you may get a more accurate diagnosis.

If you have the luxury of a working air con, the air coming out the vents is around 45F, even when the temperature outside is around 90F, so there seems little benefit in recirculating the air as 45F is probably cold enough for most. You also need to think that in hot weather the inlet for recirculation is just near your hot sweaty feet.

This happened to mine in two different ways. The first was there was a burr on the closing hook which stuck but was fixed with a small file and the second time the whole mechanism stuck. I found a replacement on ebay for

I am now wondering what on earth I can do next to solve my air con problems. I seem to have a leak that is intermittent and no one can find. I have had my system pressure tested, filled with dye, bubbles, sniffers and the leak just cannot be found. This has been done by Ford dealers, my works van/truck depot and finally by a small independent specialist, who did not charge me as they could not find the fault. They had the trim out things stuck up in both the evaporators, pressure soak tests, UV lights, the car on the lift with the tray and trim removed, bits of the front off to expose the full condenser and absolutely nothing. Last night I had another DIY go and put several cans in bit by bit until the pressure switch started cycling the system from overpressure and still nothing. I let a little gas out of the low pressure side to reduce the pressure to a safe level and after a few seconds, liquid refrigerant (with dye) spurted out. The air con suddenly started working again, but I know this will only last until the levels drop again. I cleared the pressure switch alarm and it was still working this morning with the air at 45F both front and back. At

Doesn't the pressure switch fault code 00792 mean that the pressure switch was activated due to incorrrect pressure rather than the pressure switch is faulty? In the past I have found that intermittant open/short problems have usually been caused by maintenance rather than a fault, after clearing them they remain clear.

How did you test for the leak with the bike pump and pressure gauge? I assume you can tell if you have a leak as the pressure drops, but how do you locate it? I would have assumed that as I have UV dye in mine I would have seen the yellow glow wherever there was a leak. I also find the cost of replacement parts amazing. If you think of it you can buy a domestic split-system air conditioning unit at 4KW heat rating for

Take a look at Galaxy Chrome

I got mine for

Does the opposite apply and on a CC unit the incoming air temperature is controlled and will not be at the temperatures on the graph? Or does it just control the volume of incoming cooled air with the fan speed?

3.5 bullet, please can you advise which of the bike block pros fit the three wheel channels on the Ford Carrier, eg Does Bike Block Pro 1 fit the wheel channel nearest the boot, BBP2 the next and BBP3 the 3rd?

Why do you believe that a CFC in its gaseous state is incompressible? Surely it is the compressing/condensing of the gas that heats it up and when it decompresses/evaporates it cools?

Change your shoes from plastic soled. Insulated shoes mean when you touch the ground the charge that would normally pass unoticed into the ground does not and passes through the car to the ground when you touch it. It does not happen with leather soled shoes.

I suppose there must be a difference in performance between the single and the dual climate controls.

Are you sure there is a problem? As the air-con cuts in, it puts a load on the engine and the rpm will blip downwards until the idle stabilises again. As the air-con cuts out, the idle speed will blip upwards. It depends on how frequently it cuts in and out under the control of the Climate Unit as to whether there is a problem.

A tip for getting the sidelight bulb holder out that may apply to the indicator as well is to use a flat file (20mm x 5mm) as a large screwdriver as this fits nicely in the slot/handle of the back of the bulb holder and allows you to untwist (as in a domestic bayonet bulb) the holder to remove it. If the file is a cosy fit in the holder you can remove and reinsert the holder without putting your hand in the hole.

If you cannot get the proper tool, depending on the access space around the nut, you may be able to put a socket from a socket set on the nut and grip the outside of the socket with a wrench whilst putting the allen key through the hole in the top of the socket.

I have dye in my system since last September and there are no stains left anywhere. I lost virtually all my gas, it has been refilled, pressure tested with no loss and has been working for three weeks. It will probably fail again as soon as I go on holiday.

This is not true as the Galaxy does not inject fuel on the overun.

I find it hard to accept that a remap alone can give a 35% increase in power.

I was not aware of this tube in the bulkhead, but if I have a leak in my evaporator and I have UV dye in my system, will it be visible here?

You should not be turning your steering wheel when stationary as it puts undue pressure on all the steering components and damages your tyres, especially with a car with a heavy front end such as this. It is fairly common for a little juddering of the steeering wheel when at full lock on power streering systems although I have not experieced this on the galaxy.

I believe you only have dual air-conditioning if you have the roof outlets in the rear, otherwise there is only hot and unheated air available in the back. One way of confirming if you have dual or single air conditioning is to look at the pipes running just behind the nearside sill below the rear door which then go up into the body near the rear wheel. If you have rear air-conditioning you will have four pipes, two thick, one medium and one thin, if not there will just be two pipes. (This is on vehicles without the auxilliary heater, so that could add to or hide the pipes.)

I looked at the various sizes and as you say, SpeedFerries quote 5m max and a Galaxy with the Ford Bike rack on the back is 5.08m. The large size vehicle does seem to be standard, but if you change your travel times slightly, the rate drops, so I have a 17:40 crossing there and a 09:55 back as a large vehicle on Saturdays in July for a total of

The machines also carry out a pressure and leak test and I would prefer my leak and pressure test to last longer than 10 minutes.

This summer I will be taking two bikes across the Channel to France. I can take them either on the back or on top of the Galaxy, my normal preference would be the back. However I have been told that some companies charge extra when you turn up as this can make the vehicle longer or higher than what they normally allow. Can anyone confirm or refute this and which companies do and don't do this? Also any other tips for choosing how to cross the channel?