MrT

It is a variable displacement pump but it must have a minimum speed it can provide full output at so I hope this is why it rises at low RPM. The TIS specs output temperature in the range 3-6C at ambient 15C, 4-7C at 27C and 6-9C at 35C. This is with the system set to maximum and recirc with 1500 engine RPM and run for 10 mins. My domestic air cons run at a similar temperature.

Are the MAFs on ebay genuine Bosch parts or other manufacturers equivalents? I have asked a couple of sellers as Bosch and VW numbers are given but whether they are genuine originals is not stated. I await their replies with interest. Any good or bad experiences or warnings specifically on buying MAFs off ebay?

On the Mk2 the air filter box is at the left hand side of the engine and the outlet pipe comes out of this at right angles and runs across the car parallel to the wiper tray. The MAF housing inserts into a molding on the lid of the filter box by approximately two inches and two posidrive self tappers hold it in place. The fit here is very tight with a large O ring. I cannot see the screws doing much other that stopping the MAF housing rotating. At the back of the MAF housing is the sensor held on by two torx screws with security pins in the middle of them to stop normal torx drivers from being used. The other end of the MAF housing fits into a flexible tube with a strong steel clip around it. You need to remove the MAF housing to get at the torx screws. Removing the whole item takes about 2 minutes. There is also another sensor looking a bit like a screen washer motor attached to the back of the air filter box and the MAF cable.

OK I have taken the MAF out and to bits. The body housing has the following on it: PBT-GF30 Bosch 0 280 218 017 071 906 461B The MAF Cartridge has: PBT-GF30 F 00C 2G2 032 184 10 3 B and I see there is one on Ebay

Mum4 is right when she says screws. There are two screws like large self tappers that hold the MAF housing on to the edge of the air filter cover. They are screwed into plastic and there are no captive nuts or metal inserts. All I can assume is they have been over tightened and pulled away the "threads" from the plastic. If this is the case the answer is to fill the holes in the cover with a little non brittle epoxy and once dried screw the screws back in and this will make new threads. I found the MAF housing a very tight fit in the air filter cover.

I believe that my MAF is not quite right due to rough running giving and out of range readings on VAG-COM and it may now be the time to change it. However after reading many articles on this forum and not finding the exact details, I am trying to work out the best way to get the correct new or exchange MAF. My understanding is that the MAF consists of a small cartridge with a sensor that is held by two torx screws into a larger plastic molding that looks like a piece of drainpipe crossed with a throttle body that sits in the main air intake hose. Correct so far? The options I believe are to either by the complete molding with cartridge either new or exchange or to buy just a new sensor cartridge? Now what are the differences between all the various models of Sharan, Galaxy and Alhambra as far as MAFs go? Is the cartridge the same in them all and it is only the main pipe body that differs? Apart from buying from a Ford dealer at about

The

I see in the two posts in the stickies on changing MAFs, one changes the whole casing and the other changes the cartridge that fits in the casing. Can you buy either and which do you normally change?

I have just had major work done to my aircon, a remanufactured compressor

My V6 is different as it has one coil per plug, but even if yours is as you suggested where one coil serves two cylinders and it sparks near the top of every stroke, you can still have one faulty spark on one cylinder. All the doubling up does is make one spark for every revolution rather than every two and one electrical path to the spark plug can be damaged so that one cylinder never gets a sufficient spark but the other paired one does. Of course you could have a double failure from a single coil fault or a single lead fault where one shorted to earth lead takes out the other paired ones spark. If the firing order is ABCDEF, the pairing would normally be AD,BE & CF. Again mine is different, but when I had one coil pack fail out of six, my engine management warning light came on and VAGCOM read the error as "misfire detected on cylinder X". Also when I lost one cylinder due to a coil failure, it was not blindingly obvious, the car still drove well on five cylinders, it just lacked a bit of power and idle was not as smooth as usual. I finished my holiday with bikes on the back, roof and a roofbox.

I understand there is a miniature fan behind the tiny grills at either side of the climate control which suck in air to monitor its temperature. Dust collecting on the fan blades can cause noise.

I finally took the plunge and bought a re-manufactured compressor as it was cheaper than a clutch from Ford. Took some of the front end off the car and found some dye on the top of the receiver dryer where it has corroded. I hope this is the only small leak I have as it takes so long for the gas to escape and it is only after a year that any UV dye has been visible. This was the first place I originally checked. Only problem is that I also require a new condenser. All I need now is an evaporator leak to empty the bank. What I find really annoying is that this is a known manufacturing defect in these condensers by Ford but they never recalled them. In their TIS 112/2002 dated 28th November 2002 they state "Should a customer express concern that the air condition system is inoperative or there is inadequate cooling power and there are leaks in the air conditioning system, the probable cause is a corroded/damaged aluminium cover on the air conditioning condenser or a damaged O-ring. To rectify this concern a new air conditioning condenser should be installed. A revised air conditioning condenser has been installed in production since 22.07.2002 (build code 2M)" As Ford knew about this they should have done something about this build. Ba$tards.

My 2001 Galaxy has ESP as standard.

Make sure you have the correct clutch unit, there were a variety of compressors used over time across the range and even on the same compressor there was more than one type of clutch used. As an example my compressor was an Sanden SD7V16 and the variant on that was "1226" and there were at least two different clutches used on that variant. The Ford price for a clutch is

Are you sure of those weights? Looking at the brochure I have it quotes mine with a kerbweight of 1727Kg with a 75Kg driver, full tank of fuel and full fluid levels. It lists all the deisels as 1724Kg kerbweight. The gross weight is then given as 2470Kg or 2510Kg for the deisel.

That is one thing that bothers me about some of the axle stands, they say suitable for cars of up to two tons, which is more than the Galaxy, but the Galaxy must have a higher proportion of its weight towards the front, so maybe it would be wise to go for stronger ones.

Looking for ramps they all seem to be made for little cars. It's not the weight but the tyre width that seems to be restrictive. Halfords only take up to 185. The Sealey 2500 ramps seem the biggest of the standard type take up to 2.5 tons but only a 210 tyre. My tyres are 215, so will that extra 5mm damage the edge of my tyres on the side irons? I would also have to get these by mail order which would delay me even more. I have 21cm clearance at the front skirt by the wheels in the unladen car so that would clear the top of the ramp. The rear may be more of a problem and the mudguards would certainly have to come off. Looking at the jacking points for the galaxy, surely the TIS cannot be telling me to jack it by the sump at the front?

What sort of resistance should there be? It feels like turning a paddle in oil or heavily greased bearing, but there is no pressure that makes it want to spring back or forwards like you would feel with a piston type compressor?

For getting under the galaxy engine, what is the best option, wheel ramps or axle stands? Where would you place the axle stands at the front end of a galaxy (to work under the engine) so that they safely take the weight and don't damage the car? The last car I did this on had a chassis which shows how long ago that was!

Well I made a 2 foot electrical probe by soldering a needle to a rod then using the needle to pierce the wires on the compressor and the correct electrical signals are being sent to the clutch. So the clutch is not working and this could be the field coils or the whole mechanism. There is no obvious physical external damage to the clutch and the centre part turns smoothly by hand. The options seem to be, new field coils and/or clutch and I have no idea of the cost of these. A two legged puller is required to remove the clutch. A remanufactured compressor (SD7V16) would cost

My air-con clutch does not appear to be engaging and before I go to a specialist, is there anything I can do? The centre part turns freely so is not seized. I had an intermittant pressure sensor switch problem and cleared that. The pressure seems about right in the low pressure side. I thought about testing to see if there is power and or connectivity to the air con unit, but I cannot get near the thing. There is not enough space to get my hand between the radiators fans and the unit from the top and from the bottom the engine tray is in the way and I believe you have to have the car on stands (which I don't have) to get the tray off. From the front, the oil cooler is in the way.

The auto knob is really wide at the end and if you press its button you can have it in many positions.

Mine is automatic and in "tiptronic" I can flip it backwards and forwards.

I may be wrong on this, but I seem to remember that if the warning light came on the relay was working which is why I checked my contacts and not the relay. This was about 3 years ago so I cannot remember exactly. I remember it was discussed on this forum around that time, so you may be able to seach on this issue.

Just in case you are not aware, on many of the models, the windscreen heater will only work when the engine is running, that is actually turning over, not just the ignition turned on. If you were trying to trace wiring and did not know this, it could take a long time. Also some models would not let you have both front and rear on at the same time. From what I have seen the earth at the top of the screen is only a plastic/copper ribbon cable and this is usually ripped out when the glass is changed damaging the earth block. I believe the relay is about the third row deep in the fusebox.