MrT

The Ford has some kind of analysis on the way you are driving and automatically adjusts the gearbox between sports and economy modes to suit. I am sure someone here can give a more detailed description. You also have the tiptronic way of changing gear on the Ford autobox if you want.

Both dipped bulbs are used the same amount, far more than the main beam, and they would be virtually identical bulbs with virtually identical lifespans and you would expect them to both burn out at a similar time, although not exactly the same moment. One may have gone before the other but you only noticed when the second went. I don't think it would be the stalk as this does not switch the dipped off it only turns the main beam on and off. The dipped are always on if the headlamps are on. The only switch for the dipped is the main switch and the ignition switch.

I seem to remember something about the traction control/ESP/ABS having a minimum speed it works at, but I may be wrong on this.

What is the point of advising Galaxy owners to use "second start" when it does not have this feature?

Same car (assuming you got a MK2 and not an old stock MK1) and it never wheel spins, in a straight line the traction control works with a horrible juddering feeling (like ABS working - as did the Mk1) and if the wheel is slightly turned the ESP comes on with the warning light and power drops away. The bottom switch in your centre console is the ESP switch and the dashboard ESP light should be out when driving, if the light is on that means ESP is disabled. Try the switch and see if the ESP light comes on and off, if it does not come on at all there is a problem. Even then in a straight line unless the surface is slippery (gravel, oil or ice) it always grips and the traction/ESP is not activated, and I have a heavy right foot. On a slippery surface the ESP can cut in without you feeling it and only the warning light shows this. Sometimes when you floor it turning out of a junction on a slippery surface and the ESP activates it feels like the engine has died, which is scary the first time it happens when nipping out in front of a rapidly approaching lorry.

It flashes when the is a fault condition detected by the CC unit. Most commonly this is a regass but if when they were doing any work and disconnected a unit, this could have triggered the alarm. When they connect their computer to the car, the fault code will be read off and if it was just a connection error, they will clear the fault code and all will be well. If the fault code is something else, they will need to tell you what it was and what needs doing. I once had this and the fault code was a "speed reading" error (yes the climate control takes in speed information) caused during a service.

That looks identical to a clip from a photo frame that has a sheet of glass and a backing sheet, but no frame around the edge.

I recently bought a duff new MAF and when it went out of spec (fault = implausible reading) it somehow locked up the autobox in 4th(after knocking into 4th from 5th at speed) and giving an autobox out of torque specifications alarm. The box would not work again properly until I reset the fault code with VAG-COM. I also got an EPS alarm at the same time, again due to the MAF. Not sure how the MAF did this, but it was repeatable.

Have you tried the Help menu on the TIS?It is a case of RTFM! The TIS version of the Online Automotive Service Information System (OASIS) allows the retrieval of service information for several vehicles simultaneously (VIN Enquiries), with links to applicable TSBs also provided from within the Oasis Viewer. There is also access to the latest Broadcast Messages whenever required. It is also possible to enter multiple Radio Key Code Requests. The OASIS features on TIS are split into two main sections. The first is Radio Keycode Requests, which is accessed by clicking on the GSEVIN Button The second is Global OASIS that is accessed by clicking on the OASIS Button. The OASIS selection Menu then displays giving the options of VIN Enquiries, Broadcast Messages, or modifying the Communication Parameters.

Have you seen this article on the damage that some sealants can do to aircon systems?

Make sure the one at

With over or under pressure detected by the pressure switch the climate control panel should flash on start-up on the MkII (well it did on mine). However the system will normally lose cooling power due to a lack of coolant before the pressure switch detects it. The clutch will be engaged in that situation, but there is not enough pressure to provide cooling. That is why you need to look to see if the clutch is engaged. If the clutch is engaging, a partial coolant loss is the most likely cause. The centre of the clutch (when the engine is off) should be turnable against a slight resistance by hand, if it spins freely or is jammed there is something seriously wrong with the clutch/compressor. If the clutch is not engaging check the power to the compressor. There are only two wires to the compressor, +12V and ground, you have power when the compressor should engage and no power when disconnected. No power here means look in other areas such as the wiring, controls and temperature sensors. If you have power to the compressor and the clutch is not engaging, the clutch field coils are likely to have gone. In this situation you are probably better getting a remanufactured compressor (

You can tell if the clutch is engaging as the centre part spins when it is engaged. The outer pulley always spins. You can test the pressure with a pressure gauge on the low pressure air con filler. However the most common standalone pressure gauge available from outlets like Halfords does not work properly on some Galaxies as the centre pin in the gauge is too thick to fit in the hole in the air con filler. The gauges on filler tubes from Halfords fit.

Just a minor point that may not be relevant to you is that it is possible to think the compressor is being engaged by the change in engine note, but there is also the second radiator fan that starts at the same time as the compressor is engaged and this electrical load and noise can give the impression that the compressor is loading the engine. I think the Galaxy was designed for a climate unlike the UK or is just badly designed. I have not had this problem on other cars. Even last week (early Sat 30th) I had my rear passenger windows misting up driving up the A1 set at "Econ" and 20C front and rear and the weather was misty but not raining with the outside temp at 13C. Switching to auto soon cleared it. The non air con Galaxies must have a real problem in certain conditions. I don't have a wet filter or carpet or any other damp problems to my knowldge.

Waiting until the spring is not necessarily a good idea as you can need the drying power of the air-con to keep the car mist free if its full of people in cold damp weather. There is more than one question asked in this thread which can confuse the simpler minded.

If you have over or under pressure, the clutch will not engage. If you look at the unit when it is engaged the centre of the pulley (with the three nuts) spins with the outer part where the belt fits, when disengaged the centre part sits still. I had a recent clutch failure and it was cheaper to fit a remanufactured compressor (

There must be another fault as overgassing causes over pressure and the pressure switch will not allow the clutch to engage.

Yes, I should say 4/5 seats as booster seats don't weigh much. Novel idea if you count the drivers seat.

If you don't want to end up always being picked as the driver when you go to meet people somewhere, just take all the back seats out (assuming you are not taking the family with you). This always used to happen to me at business meetings when people decided to go out of town to a nice country pub in the evening. You can also feel the difference in driving with the weight of 6/7 seats less.

When you have multiple items on the bars where the T feet slide into the slot. Thule bike holders and load stops use this method as do some Thule roof boxes. If you are not familiar with this way of mounting look at diagram 5 on page 4 of these instructions The only way to have the rubber in then is in little pieces between the items and I don't want to cut my rubber strip up.

I find the Thule aero bars make a piercing whistling sound if you don't have the rubber strips in the top.

It shows a normal reading at idle, something seems to happen when driving fast. The error does not reset itself after restarting and needs VAG-COM to clear it. My old MAF sometimes gives a low reading which brings on the engine light (but not the EPC) which is why I changed it. I don't know if i got a dud or if aftermarket MAFs are just not up to Bosch standards.

I recently changed my MAF for a new one and all seemed well until my first trip on the motorway. After around 15 miles, the "EPC" warning light came on with the "ESP" warning, there was an immediate drop in power and the gearbox dropped into 4th gear and I could not make it change up or down. I pulled off at the next junction and very fortunately I had my VAG COM lead from when I changed the MAF. I read the errors and had two, 16485 MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR (G70): Implausible Signal and also from the gearbox something similar to "Input Torque Out of Specification". Clearing the MAF error turned off the EPC warning and I cancelled the gearbox fault as well. The "ESP" warning had not cleared but as soon as I connected to the brake system it did. Started off again and exactly the same happened about ten miles later. I still had the old MAF in the back so I swapped it over and all has been fine for the next 600 miles. The are several points here I would like to understand: 1. When the MAF error occured why did the EPC warning come on when in the past the Engine warning indicated a MAF error? 2. Why did the gearbox report an "input torque" error and shift and lock into 4th gear? 3. Why did the "ESP" warning come on when there were no brake error faults? 4. What did the new MAF give an implausible rather than a low or high error?

Have you had a roof aerial of anything similar fitted recently? When I had one fitted to the roof, the metal cuttings from the hole were not properly cleaned away and they congregated around the roof bar pillars, rusted and left rust stains on them. They cleaned up OK.

How does the alignment of the cylinders affect a timing chain slip and piston to valve clearance? Is this because there is not separate camshafts per bank?