Ivor_E_Tower

Sounds (no pun intended) as if you need to go to a better car audio place with the right leads. Don't forget that you will need the special aerial lead adaptor to power the window-mounted aerial amplifier.

The speaker grilles are not hot welded at the factory, it's just that replacing them in this way saves taking the door card off. There are increasing uses of torx screws on all cars to fit things, it appears that the manufacturers think that most of us do not have the relevant drivers to take things apart, so have to go to their dealers! However, I have heard stories that the sidelights on Mk4 Golfs with HID headlamps have to be changed by a dealer as it may require the front bumper to be removed! I do hope that this is a hoax.

Nope. Cannot be feedback, there is no microphone input to the head unit. What sort of noise was it?

Yes and Yes, it will take approx 3 hours to cool. The trick is to use those blocks you stick in the home freezer the night before, add them to the cool box to lower the temperature faster. Best method I've found to run the box on 12volts indoors is to get one of the battery booster/tyre inflater things. SOme have a 12volt socket on them, so you can even run the cool box when away from mains power. For peace of mind, you could even run it off this in the car overnight, to ensure that the car battery doesn't go flat.

This isn't primer showing through after treatment, it's primer showing through the scratches. Although the car has remote locking, I think the wife holds the bunch of keys in her hand when she pulls the door handle, and that's when they come into contact with the panel, scratching the paint. Will try to have another go over Easter, if I get the chance (dad is in hospital again, currently having his op..... must remember to fill up with fuel tonight in preparation for loads of trips to and from hospital over the coming week.)

What do you mean by "on constantly"? - Do you mean that they are on when you are driving normally, or that when you go into reverse, they are giving out the continuous bleeping tone?

Mussey - what is the secret to using the JML scratch remover? I bought some to use on the wife's Scenic and it's useless. She's scratched all round the keyhole on the driver's door with her bunch of keys - don't know how or why, as it has remote locking! But so far I am unimpressed with the scratch remover. Plenty of grey primer showing through mid-blue topcoat. :o

Almost certainly a defective brake light switch. Try searching the forum, it has been covered a few times before. Start by checking that all your brake lights are working properly and that the brake light fuse is OK.

You will need the blanking plate for the balance of the hole in the dashboard and the aerial lead adapter to run power to the aerial amplifier - try doing a search on this section of the site for more info.

http://www.autocarmagazine.co.uk/news_arti...sp?na_id=207697 following earlier postings on this site stating concern over cover, Autocar magazine has reported that the company used by Ford, Warranty Holdings, is in administration or has gone bust. See the above link for more info.

Do you really need a sensor (or even 2 sensors) to tell you that you've just run one of them over?

Knocking sound is probably the front anti-roll bar drop links, had same problem when I bought mine. Should get the dealer to fix this under warranty, it's quick and simple to do. Jump leads should store in the rear wheel arch next to the jack, behind the side panel trim. Maps should store in the glove box or door pockets (or, if you have them, the map pockets on the back of the front seats).

If dealership aren't concerned then I would take the money-back option. You say you still have 6 months Ford warranty left, so this gives you time to source a suitable alternative warranty. You can try the RAC and AA websites, Warranty Direct etc and choose the one that suits you best. In the next 6 months you will also get a chance to find out if you are likely to have a "problem" vehicle.

You're not alone in disliking main dealers, I am with you on that one!

Don't tempt fate, but diesel exhaust are less corrosive than petrols and the exhausts should last longer. On short journeys the big killer is the water left INSIDE the exhaust system which doesn't get heated/evaporated off the insides of the boxes and pipes, so the exhausts tend to fail from rusting inside to outside. My 1985 Honda petrol went 6 years on its original exhaust and another 5 years on the first replacement (both just mild steel). On the other hand, once we moved to current location and it only got used for short journeys, it failed every year. Luckily I bought lifetime replacement cover. Got about 6 replacement rear sections fitted at no cost!

Sounds like it should be fine then (famous last words...). Most "official" services by main dealers seem to consist of little more than oil/plug changes, pollen filter change, infrequent air filter change and loads of checks (eg brake pad wear). I would suggest that the lazy seatbelts are just one of those things and unless they are so bad as to fail the MoT (and I'm not sure that slow retraction is a fail, any MoT Testers out there?) I would not worry about them. As to an impending service - take it to a good local garage or independent - from my experience I would recommend Lex/Nationwide autocentres (and RAC members should get a discount on servicing), ask them to do a full major service informing you of brake pad wear etc. They should also be able to tell you what other work may need doing soon. If you're patient and approach the staff in the right way, you should even be able to speak to the guys who actually work on the car to hear first-hand of what they think. Get this done ASAP after taking delivery, so if there is anything major, you can go straight back to the selling garage and claim unroadworthy/major defects etc which you want them to sort immediately. - However, hopefully this won't be necessary. I did something similar in 1991 when I bought an 18-month old Rover 820 with about 46,000 on the clock. It turned out to be probably one of the most reliable Rovers ever made!

When they turm bright pink, it tells you that you've been a naughty boy, and the more squares that are bright pink, the naughtier you have been!

Just had to pay

Just that - open door with key, place into ignition, start car, drive a bit. Stop car, get out and lock with remote action of key.

Air is 80% nitrogen anyway, so for road use there is almost no benefit in using nitrogen only - and what happens when the tyre loses a bit of pressure and you need to pump it up a couple of psi??? There is a reason that nitrogen is used in racing tyres - cannot remember exactly why, but it may be something to do with expansion and pressure difference when the tyre heats up. Road going tyres don't heat up that much, whereas racing tyres do.

There are several stories on various forums that the French police will stop and fine you for not having deflectors or tape fitted - even if it is broad daylight and you have no intention of driving at night. Not sure about certain adhesives on the polycarbonate lenses of facelifted Galaxys, you have to be careful not to use solvents to clean them, but quite what you use to remove sticky patches I don't know, any suggestions?

Try disconnecting the car battery for 20 minutes, then starting from scratch...

LOL !! :rolleyes: ;)

I have to say that in the past few weeks, I have noticed loads of new-shape Galaxys with faded/decaying Ford badges on the tailgates. I wonder if this size one is unique to the Galaxy and if there is a manufacturing problem at the supplier? (just like the interior door handle pulls.....)

I think 9/12 means that it's 9 months old (9 out of 12 months in a year).