Ivor_E_Tower

Mk 2 Ghia wheel centres are plastic so they are not suffering from corrosion, just scratching etc, usually caused by Ford garages who don't use the special tool on the wheelbrace/jack to prise them off; we covered this topic very recently, IIRC about

ISTR that a Certificate of Conformity can only be issued when the car is new, by the manufacturer/importer. Surely your local Vehicle Licencing Office can help out on this one? After all, many servicemen/women and diplomats buy in the UK, export then re-import.

It's nice for me to know this too !!!

Try some self-adhesive velcro instead :lol: Blutac and velcro - good things for holding your car together.

You have no chance with a dealer like that! From the VIN number and using a bit of common sense (you said Ghia TDI) they should be able o determine from the parts system which board/clocks are needed. Contact Ford UK if you still get no joy from the dealer.

Millers XFE PD 505.01 from my local car accessory shop which, much to my surprise stocks it, and the local motor factors don't.

Sounds (!) like drive belt issue to me too.

There are some W-reg facelifted models about - but not too many diesels. I have been told that VW rationed the supply of the PDI engines to Ford following the facelift - and all facelifted diesels are TDI PD, with manual transmission have 6 forward speeds.

Judging by what you have had to do to it over the past few months, you must really like it !

TDI 115 - about 35mpg in stop-start town driving, and around 48mpg on long runs (got nearly 50mpg out of it travelling 6-up to EuroDisney and back again last October, 600+ miles with no refuelling). I'd be very wary of the Renault; the 2.2 diesel has a habit of breaking its crankshaft thrust washer at around 80,000 miles leaving you with a bill for a new engine (several thousand pounds). The new-shape one with the 1.9 diesel or V6 3.0 diesel is a better bet :D ...but on balance I'd stick to a Galaxy. I think you will find little real-world difference between the "older" 110 and newer 115 engine; the 115 does like its special oil though, which can be difficult (and expensive) to obtain.

OK - got it...try leaking rear washer pipe

No secrets, only hard work ! Get a set of rails from a breakers, dealer (?) etc; remove interior trim as necessary, so that you can drop the headlining. Drill holes in appropriate places, cut rubber strips in roof in appropriate places. Fit rails, reverse the trim removal process (after cleaning your hands). Job done.

Rear washer pipework is just under the trim between carpet and door opening of front passenger door. I don't have the link handy to post, but there is a super set of photos by SA Intruder that clearly shows where it is, and what you have to do to fix it.

Keep the front doors open when trying to lock the car for a start - this should force them into the unlock mode, then close them and re-press the lock button. If this doesn't work, open all the doors and bonnet, lock with key in drivers door; disconnect car battery, wait, manually unlock all doors using the handles, reconnect battery. If this still doesn't work..........

Where abouts are these hoses? Not yet seen any that colour on the car, only in the garden centres and DIY shops :(

No - countert-act their turning - if they are turning, it is because they are not pushing against the release clips.

The Ford radio units are NOT double-DIN size; they are about Din-and-3-quarters. If you wish to fit a double-Din unit, you need the different centre console trim panel fitted by VW, SEAT and Ford to the cars with sat-nav systems. It's only a few pounds.

Make sure that the 2 keys are fully pushed in, then pull hard. If the unit still will not move, make sure that somebody hasn't also bolted it in for additional protection.....

On my previous car, a Rover 820 (with which I had very few problems) the first owner had the head gasket go at 25,000 miles and under 1 year old.

Yes - but the oil pick-up must surely remain below the top level of oil in the sump - and there should be some baffle plates in the sump to stop the oil from sloshing away from the pick-up point, if only for those (many) occasions when cornering "vigorously". If this "fault" really is due to oil surge, then it must count as bad design by VW.

Yes it comes out with just 4 (IIRC) screws. Underneath is a cut-away plastic bit with a sticky label and bar-code to help the bods at the factory recognise which part it is (!), and under that, a large void from what I could tell when I removed my cubby to repair its lid mechanism.

Cambelt change, for starters, whereas petrol models have a chain or two.....

Where are you? Not another forum member in Scandinavia?

...at speeds as low as 10 mph, as has happened to me???? Are you sure?

H O O R A Y !!! I am not alone! I've reported this before but nobody knows why. I think we should just forget about it, and not worry any longer. Edited 08:38: Ah, my engine doesn't stop - I just get the beep and warning message.