seatkid

Nice reference thread with good pictures....

Maz, try and get a better pic..... It appears 1. the threaded bit has remnants of tape on it (signs of bodge job) 2. the left hand cable rubber seal is not in the right place for some reason 3. the right hand cable has had some kind of repair. Ebay gum

:angry: The spring retainer costs 74p, the spring probably costs 40p!!.... hardly worth going to a scrapyard or paying

You lost the spring retainer and the spring. That is your problem. This is what it should look like. (From passenger side)

Just an update to this thread...... I no longer recommend buying anything but a genuine Ford or VAG droplink. The cheap one I bought from Delphi lasted only around 20,000 miles. The Ford part wasnt that much more expensive but is obviously more substantial - it has undergone design changes for the better. Ebay parts are pants.

Screeching noise is probably aux belt slipping on alternator pulley - check tension and belt condition - also check power steering belt is tight. Knocking noise is worn drop link(s) - very common fault see FAQ nr.2 - new drop link from Fords are around

???? There is a plastic frame that the pollen filter fits into. This frame (with filter fitted) slides back into the housing with the free side of the filter towards the back of the car i.e. facing the housing. The front of the frame is smaller than the filter and there is a bracing bar halfway so its impossible for the filter to fall out. From what I remember, on the top and bottom edges of the frame at the rh side are two lugs that engage in slots inside the housing top bottom. You then slide the assy to the right before the lhside swings in to engage the tang.

Look under car in the centre just in front of the rear wheels. There is a a tensioning spring that connects to the end of the main handbrake cable. One end is on a metal clip on the chassis, the other connects to a plastic spring retainer that should be on the end of the cable. The plastic retainer may have pulled off. The internals of the push on cap will be stripped (bad design), but dont worry, the good news is they cost 74p+vat, the bad news is they are not held in stock but need to be ordered by a dealer. You can effect a temporary repair by applying a layer of duck tape or simmilar on the threaded end of the cable and screwing the retainer back on and reconnecting the spring. You need VAG part no. 701 711 367 (its the cylindrical bit attached to the spring - to the left of the arrow) If its still in place then one of the brake cables to the rear discs may be broken.

It's that LPG that makes him so irascible. :D

Doubt it can be done. Unless I'm mistaken, different heater/evaporator unit and housing with motorized flaps, different compressor, wiring loom, probably different condensor/dryer and pipework and thats just the bits in the front half......

The undertray on a diesel Galaxy is a large sturdy 3d affair. It won't drop off with just a clunk. "If" it did drop off (highly unlikely as its bolted to the chassis) - then there is insufficient clearance to let it go under without a big fight and a lot of drama. It would also cause considerable and probably expensive damage to the underside. They are usually not replaced during service, either because they are lazy, sloppy, incompetent or nicking it to sell on ebay - probably independants rather than main dealer. You should also check to see if they jacked up your car on the sills, bending/crushing/tearing them and causing expensive MOT failure in the future.

Maybe try these people Check using the original Bosch number stamped on your alternator to find the correct regulator e.g it might be this regulator (or then again it might not!)

Sorry, I was thinking that the Mk1 and Mk2 were similar. Not sure if this is the correct pic - isnt this the roll restrictor? (under gearbox)

I had a 96 Alhambra (no remote locking) and I seem to recall the central locking was vacuum operated? ;) (not sure though) That car occasionally didn't lock all the doors, and once or twice seemed to unlock itself several hours after it was locked. Never got to the bottom of it as the car was written off. My later 98 Alhambra has remote locking and looks like its a different system. You could check under the passenger seat for water damage to the central locking module.

These units go between MAF and ECU and are little more than a resistor or simple 10p amplifier. General consensus is they are bad as they just cause gross overfuelling, smoke, short oil life and premature engine wear. Dont believe most of the crap, especially claims about increased mpg and power. Invalidates your warranty. If you fit one, inform your insurance company.

The RR doesnt wear out. The end bolt shears.

AFAIK you can change the regulator/brush pack in most alternators. You have to remove the plastic end cap to gain access and its usually held in by one or two screws/bolts. You dont have to remove the alternator. There are specialists on the interweb that can supply replacement packs considerably cheaper than the dealer (although check first - you may be surprised)

Glad you got it sorted. AFAIK no Mk1/2 Galaxy has its main electronics in the engine bay. Early Mk1 models (pre 1998) had ecu and central locking modules in the underfloor under the front seats. As these caused so many problems (with water), they were moved on later models to up behind the dash.

Often dealers will stick the code in your service book. Mine is stuck on a flap in the glovebox.

maybe a printdiing error or maybe a late friday afternoon car, assembly operator was pissed up or maybe a 110 bhp engine if its a Mk1 or maybe f**ked if I know......

An oil leak! :o Why not try posting a photograph of said item. Pictures say much more than words...

At this time of the year you dont need the aux heater for heat (it heats the engine coolant btw and doesnt provide heat directly). If your engine is not getting up to temperature, check the engine thermostat. If it is, then check the two pipes going into the heater matrix, both should be hot, if not then either the matrix is blocked or you have an air lock. Then check the heater controls, if its got climate control (with LCD display), then the heater flap motor may be stuck (it happens) It takes 4-5 miles before you start to get warm air.

Sorry, but I gotta say.... Thats just about 10% less than a brand new one with same spec from DrivetheDeal.com. Just 5 months road tax left, above average mileage no mention of service history. Without the options (that add little if any 2value to resale price), I reckon you could buy a brand new one for the price youre asking, especially if you have cash. Big cars arent selling fast unless the price is rock bottom

15 secs means the ecu thinks its 20 below freezing! Something obviously wrong either with the wiring or connector. Or the temperature sensor is kaput or incorrect type.