seatkid

NOOOOO!!!! Those are the jacking points for the vehicle's scissor jack! It is the sill lip and the sissor jack has a U shape piece that fits around it. If you use these points for a bottle jack or hydraulic etc then you will crush/tear the sill lips!! Look under the car and you will see substantial cross member box sections just behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels. IIRC the suspension is bolted to these. Jack up there - Use a pad / wooden block to spread the load and avoid damage to the underseal.

White smoke often associated with timing - check cambelt is correctly installed. Could be the infamous loose bottom pulley (sheared woodruff key iirc) - not sure if thats a MK1 or Mk2 thing though.

If the door lock switch wiring is shorted it could open windows.

Handbrake light is a switch on the handbrake lever I think.

IIRC On the PD engines the glow plugs are under the rocker cover :lol: Sounds as if indeed one or more glow plugs are shot - they should measure at < 1 ohm each (once you pull off the tight fitting busbar). Usually they fail open circuit or in the kohm range. On the Mk1 Tdi they come out easy with a deepish socket set, should be the same on the PD.

How about a kick up the backside? :lol: Yep the adjuster is what you found -there is a nut there - probably all rusted up, so plenty of WD40.

Somebody posted about this. His cure was to disconnect the battery for a minute(check you have the radio security code first!) and then reconnect it. This resets the "learnt" values in the ECU. Worth a go.

Check for air leaks /loose pipes particularly the vacuum pipework which should be connected to the inlet manifold somewhere. Also check the main air intake pipework for leaks (between MAF sensor and throttle body) Another possibility is throttle body may require cleaning.

Coilpaks and leads are common failures (tracking/insulation breakdown). Try these first.

Sticky turbo vane actuator or a leaking vacuum pipe/joint or poorly MAF sensor. Search the forum for instructions/pics on how to lubricate/free actuator (not always sucessful)

Why dont people ever try searching the forum or even consult the FAQ

The chance of any damage to a PD or Tdi engine is minimal. The engine just stops when the petrol gets to the injector (as petrol doesnt ignite in a compression engine). There is no high pressure fuel pump to damage (as there is in a common rail engine) and the low pressure electric lift pump is probably the same as they fit in petrol engined models. You'll also be smoking the Clios engine with running with contaminated fuel - not a good idea...... For both cars dilute the contamination as much as possible by topping up the cars with the correct fuels asap. Good idea to change the fuel filter on the diesel after this kind of episode.

Someone on forum said it was possible. However personally I would have though it impossible. The manufacturers go to great length to make the immobiliser 100% secure. Go and find that chip (its small - see pictures below). Interrogate the child and retrace his footsteps (avoid violence :D) PATS chip PATS in key Search the forum , dealers will cost £160+ IIRC, but someone used a locksmith for about £45 IIRC . Search.....

That only works if drop links are well on the way to dropping apart. Even the slightest wear causes terrible noises over bumps. Its a 15 min job per side to change. Just do it and you wont regret it. Fleabay items only last 10,000 miles. Get decent ones.

Yes the ferrite block is the device for the immobiliser and is reliable. The PCB contains an IC and some other components and is the remote wireless unit. Something goes on that PCB, best guess is the ceramic resonator (the frequency generator) drifts frequency or stops oscillating as the fob first becomes unreliable/intermittent and then stops completely. Most electronic failures are due to passive component drift (e.g. capacitors, resonators etc). Note the resonator frequency is different for different cars. i.e. although a VW golf fob looks identical, it operates on a different frequency and you cant use that fob on your Shalaxy. Members have reported buying a new fob fixes the problem so that seems to rule out any issue with the car electronics.

Sticky vane actuator Not sure if this error needs to be reset by diagnostics.

Dodgy wiring loom/connectors to the injectors is a common fault. As your problem comes and goes I think its probably this and not an injector as when they go (very rarely) its permanent. If you know the injector position it should be easy to trace back the loom and check it. (Its under the rocker cover unfortunately)

Cant be bothered to read your comprehensive posting as Im too tired but I can tell you this. 1. The remotes operate by wireless. The infra red business applied to only a few ancient examples - they never did update the manual... 2. The immobiliser chip is the small elongated ferrite type block that sits in the fob near the blade. It quite common for this to fall out when people open their keys to change batteries. 3. The PCB is the remote bit. 4. The Remote unit in the vehicle (forget what its called) can be programmed to store up to 5 different keyfobs on a rolling basis - any new programming and the oldest is lost and replaced by the new. 5. When people buy replacement fobs (v expensive) they usually work but you still need the original immobiliser chip otherwise its an expensive trip to the dealer.

Did you buy the correct MAF part no for your engine? I dont think pierburg MAFs (they are usually metal bodied?) are the correct ones for your engine. Could be a vacuum pipe has come off or split. Or the turbo vane actuator is stuck Or the turbo control solenoid/wiring is faulty. Or another sensor/wiring is faulty. Or the intercooler has a hole in it. Or......

Let me guess - is it your offside rear? IIRC quite a few have had similar problems - I have - but not the ABS - that maybe because you let things go on too long and more damage has been done. Its likely its a combination of things due to corrosion and lack of cleaning/maintenance. If you look under the back of the car, I can guarantee you will not like what you see (muck, rust and more rust!) Lack of regular brake fluid changes leads to sticking pistons. The rusted up handbrake actuator and rusty/caked up handbrake cable holds the brakes on also (red light). Also check your foot pedal fully releases (tuck your toe under it and see if it comes up a bit with a pull) I'm guessing the ABS sensor ring is about to fall to bits (i.e. its mainly rust), if the rubber smelt, I guess the caliper seals are now damaged. Basically you need to strip down ,clean and change the seals on your caliper (or simply replace it) if you want the sticking brake problem to go away completely. While your down there, you will probably find you need new ABS ring(s), disks and pads, possibly brake hoses, clean up the brake cables and mechanism and dont forget new brake fluid is essential.

Well I believe you have found the problem. Regarding remote fob - they all appear to die in the same way after a few years, first intermittent operation then change the batteries and it dies shortly after - leds may flash but it doesnt do anything. Oil light might simply be faulty oil pressure switch.

Maybe you didnt really run out, but the fuel pump relay (relay 30) failed. Its quite common - read about it here

When was the fuel filter changed? Do you use bio diesel? I would check the feed to the stop solenoid Could be another case of dodgy connections to the relay/fuse panel or a dodgy relay.

You must be really clumsy. ;) The filter fits inside a plastic frame which you then fit back as a unit. Mann filters are OE quality and having used them many times I dont see any difference in construction or quality with the original manufacturers part. Pollen filters are just bug/leaf/dust stoppers - any one will do even the cheap ones. Unless you habitually park outside under trees, they dont really need changing that often especially if you use a vacuum with one of those thin nozzle (between seat cushion) attachments to remove the leaves/bugs every time you change the oil. If you dig through the forum you will even see I managed to wash one! (Not really cost effective though). I've never noticed a great deal of difference in airflow/air quality between a dirty (40,000 mile service) filter and a new one. I tried a carbon filter once and noticed no difference, the local sewage works still smells when I drive past it!