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Everything posted by seatkid
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Most likely a broken wire in the rubber gaitors to the tailgate. Consult the Tech FAQs, there are 3 threads expllaining in great detail with pics
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wow indian snappy gone to sleep?
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What a wassock. :27: If you want a detailed step by step girly account of how to strip down your dash, then go and buy a haynes manual - not that that'll help you much but then using the search function of the forum or even "google" is probably too much effort for you... Despite the woefully inadequate information supplied, it seems its the icing sensor as fitted on the evaporator only on Ford petrol engined Galaxys (2.0/2.3L) Its could be clicking regularly because your evaporator is icing up frequently, possibly due to blocked drain tubes combined with low airflow through the evaporator. When it clicks, it'll stops the a/c compressor, until such time as the "ice" melts (temperature rises), or alternatively it could be faulty..... Good luck with the dash strip down.
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Sk Changes His Glowplugs - Well 2 Of Them
seatkid replied to seatkid's topic in Ford Galaxy Technical Section MK I MK II
I would leave glow plug 4 alone. Just nip them up the same as you would a spark plug. Just enough to compress the washer a bit. -
The correct Filtron part for a AHU is OP 525/4 OP 525/3 is for the AFN (110bhp) engine.
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In the very short term (less than 1000 miles) probably not. The Filtron part is fiited with a pressure relief valve set at 9-15psi. The correct filter has a relief valve set at 19-37 psi. This along with the smaller size means the filter will bypass much earlier in its service life, leading to unfiltered oil going around the engine causing premature wear and damage. The FRAM filter is listed as an equivalent to the correct VAG part 068115561.
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The Mann W830/1 is for the 110bhp AFN engine. FRAM, PURFLUX and FILTRON are aftermarket brands that I would steer well clear of. Genuine filters are not that expensive http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-PASSAT-SHARAN-OIL-FILTER-068115561E-NEW-GENUINE-/380333514846
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That is NOT the solution. This is a common fault and the heat is generated by a faulty crimp. The only way to repair is to either recrimp (with new crimps of course) the ends of the cable, or solder on new crimps, or get a new cable complete. If reusing the old cable, you must cut off the end until you get back to unoxidised copper. Also a damaged fusebox is best replaced.
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Need Advice From Diagnostic Report
seatkid replied to omar's topic in Ford Galaxy Technical Section MK I MK II
Intermittent rough running on the PD due to a faulty wiring loom is very common and a known problem to dealers (probably has a TSB) Testing the loom with a meter does not usually find any fault as its a result of faulty crimps that it only shows up when running. It quickest and easiest to replace the loom. See here http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/11659-anyone-know-of-electrical-issues/page__view__findpost__p__98219 and See http://www.fordgalax...hl__wiring loom -
Key Fob Not Working Ford Galaxy 2001
seatkid replied to omar's topic in Ford Galaxy Technical Section MK I MK II
By very careful, I just meant open it on a working surface or table so if the PATS chip drops out, you can put it back in. Too many people seem to think they can open while they are on their gravel drive and when the chip drops out, thats it....gone into the gravel never to be found again. PATS chip PATS in key the tech FAQs are at the top of the tech section http://www.fordgalax...-and-solutions/ - note that if you use Internet Explorer, it doesnt work, so upgrade to Firefox, Chrome or Opera. Timpson key cutting thread -
Key Fob Not Working Ford Galaxy 2001
seatkid replied to omar's topic in Ford Galaxy Technical Section MK I MK II
If the Ford fob is the same as the VW/Seat Fob (should be) then they have 2 CR2016 coin cells BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN OPENING THE FOB. The PATS (immobiliser) chip - a small plastic block - is located in the blade end housing and is prone to fall out unnoticed. Without this chip, the car will not start and is costly to replace if you lose it. A large proportion of remote fobs "die" of old age - the remote function stops working and even changing batteries/reprogramming doesnt work. If you lubricate the lock barrels in the doors (using wd40 or similar) once a year, that should stop them from corroding up and breaking them when trying too hard to force the key. -
Clutch Or Gearbox ?
seatkid replied to manicmanda's topic in Ford Galaxy Technical Section MK I MK II
hmmm.... I wonder what the edit was about....shouldnt you summarise when modding gregs? I wonder if this is damage sustained by the ladys car at the garage she had left it at to "repair" her indicator? Probably a selector cable has popped off - http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/5156-help-needed-gear-cable/page__p__35431#entry35431 http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/16733-gear-selector-cable-fix-without-replacement/ and many more threads - search for "selector cable" -
Look here http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/13640-problems-with-isv/page__p__103773#entry103773
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Speedo Not Working And Dancing Fuel Guage
seatkid replied to farny1206's topic in Ford Galaxy Technical Section MK I MK II
maybe this will help http://www.fordgalax..._hl__fuel gauge Likely a connector or earthing problem. -
13 Years Old And Still Going Strong
seatkid replied to seatkid's topic in General Discussion and Nonsense
14 years old now and flew straight through the MOT. Fast pass on emissions again (Opacity 1.04 :lol: ) Millers ECO Max Diesel additive plus Sainsburys diesel does the job ok and definitely runs a lot quieter with the additive. Just got to get around to straighten the sill lips bent by those bastards at VW Hayselden........ :32: Oh...and I've just noticed a tear in one of the tailgate gaitors - old age? :rolleyes: Wife says she never wants to change the car.....looks like at least another year then...... -
Need Advice From Diagnostic Report
seatkid replied to omar's topic in Ford Galaxy Technical Section MK I MK II
silverbeast, he has a 2001 model which is a PD engine. Lift sensor is on pre 2000 TDi models. After checking with VAGCOM, I would look at the cam sensor (if reported faulty) and its wiring first. Misfiring is likely to be the injector wiring loom or plugs (common problem), the diagnostic suggests look at the loom/plug to no. 2 injector. New looms are available cheaply (search the forum). Overboost can be a number of reasons, but first thing to check is for sticky vanes/actuator on the turbo. Over/underboost triggers limp mode until ignition is reset but limp mode would still take you comfotably over 30 mph - that I think is cam sensor problem. VAGCOM /VCDS as suggested. -
Coolant Leak Please Help (see Piccys)
seatkid replied to ARSENAL79PLACE's topic in Ford Galaxy Technical Section MK I MK II
The highlighted clip and the one above look like brand new clips. Had any work done recently? -
Rear Door/indicator/high Beam Problems
seatkid replied to big_luke's topic in Ford Galaxy Technical Section MK I MK II
on a 99 model the GEM module (that does the central locking and other things) is buried under the fusebox under the dash. The ECU is also somewhere there. No modules under the seat floors which on earlier models used to get flooded. -
1995 Galaxy 2.0l Petrol Rear Heater
seatkid replied to leo311981's topic in Ford Galaxy Technical Section MK I MK II
Check wiring in all door (mainly drivers as that gets opened most) and hatch gaitors. The insulation is prone to cracking/breaking and wires can then break or short together. This is well documented and can lead to all sorts of strange electrical problems. There are topics in the Frequently Asked Questions Section dealing with repairing the wires. I would think the problem is in one of the tailgate gaitors. On my car the majority of wiring damage has been in the rear passenger door gaitors. -
Airbag Light On, Dash Lights Dont Work.
seatkid replied to Stabata's topic in Ford Galaxy Technical Section MK I MK II
Airbag light maybe due the "clock spring" in the steering wheel that provides the connection to the steering wheel airbag. It may also be an intermittent connection. The only way to extinguish the light once it comes on is via a diagnostic. This can be done with a VAGCOM / VCDS cable. Of course if the problem that caused it is still there, the light will come back on, but VAGCOM will give you a better idea where to look with more detail. All dash lights out - check the small wires that are connected directly to the positive terminal of your battery, one of these may have broken off. -
Rear Door/indicator/high Beam Problems
seatkid replied to big_luke's topic in Ford Galaxy Technical Section MK I MK II
First, check the wiring in all the rubber gaitors to all doors and the tailgate. The wiring here breaks and insulation crumbles leaving shorts and breaks. Its all in the Tech FAQs here(31), here(43) and here(44). After you've done that, anything still not working - check the fuses as they may have blown due to a short. Wet passenger footwell is usually, the rear washer pipe has come apart in the footwell Tech FAQ 5 Your car doesnt have the remote locking unit under the drivers seat floor - that was in models 97 and earlier. -
Possibly a strut top bearing. You need someone to turn the wheels and use your ears to track down the side and location of the Squeek.
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Car Wont Run Right Or Idle...
seatkid replied to Simon Burke's topic in Ford Galaxy Technical Section MK I MK II
PATS - Passive Anti Theft System Every Key has a coded PATS chip in it. When you try and start the engine, a reader coil in the ignition barrel, reads the code remotely from the key. If it matches the ECU list of allowed codes, then you can start the car, otherwise it "immobilises" it. Symptoms of immobiliser inhibiting start on a diesel, is the engine will turn over and start but dies after approximately 2 seconds. The LED in the door will also flash fast, from what I can remember. Its a common problem that when people open up a remote key to change the batteries, the PATS chip falls out unnoticed. As you car doesnt start/die in this way, its probably not a PATS fault. You need to sort out the wiring on the needle lift sensor.