seatkid

Did anyone post this? TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN No.118/2000 Car and Light/Medium Commercial 19.10.2000 Section: 412-02 (34) Model: Galaxy with 1.9 TDI engine with booster heater or auxiliary heater, built from 27.06.1997 to 10.09.1999 (build code VR to XJ) Markets: All Subject: Dense black smoke coming from the exhaust pipe of the booster heater Summary Should a customer exprtess concern about black smoke coming from the booster heater. the probable cause may be: 1. Brief, light emission of smoke during start-up and after run of the booster heater (approx. 10-20s). Cause: One off emission of black smoke resulting from the design of the booster heater. No further action required. 2. Light emission of smoke at low ambient temperatures and high humidity. Cause: If white smoke appears at the exhaust pipe when the vehicle engine is running, then water vapour is the cause. No further action required. 3. Thick, continuous emission of grey smoke. Cause: Booster heater metering pump is faulty. Excessive deposits in the burner of the additional heater. Burner is over saturated with unburned fuel. Remedy: Install a new booster heater metering pump and, if necessary, a new booster heater.

Thats not wot I meant! :) Taxi work is classed as by ford as "severe duty" - due to extended periods of idling - causes engine lubrication problems and wear outside their normal mileage/timing criterea

Lifetime warranty on aircon

Wifes names for cars? Alhambra = duzego auta Golf = maly wus

There was a lot in the press and some legal cases a few years ago about cambelt breakages (Citroen I think) . If you have a FSH (they might insist on dealer FSH though that is no longer a legal getout) then I dont think you have a problem. Only exception is if there was evidence you abused it e.g racing, taxi work etc.

I'm inclined to ignore your mates :) Why have tiptronic if its not safe to use? Why would the seals go? Are we talking about 60's motors here? Modern auto gearboxes are reliable and the computer control ensures operation with safe mechanical limits. Just don't do the handbrake thingy (Ivorecelleration - just a joke Ivor!)

I was most :D surprised when the MOT report told me my rear pads were likely to require changing soon. The front pads were still very healthy. I took SA's word for it that this is common. :) Here's a few things I dug up from the TIS.. Front disc 288mm x 25mm ventilated, caliper piston dia 57mm Rear disc 268mm x 10mm plain, caliper piston dia 36mm Front pads appear very roughly 2 x area of rear pads (guestimate) No mention of pressure balance valve in TIS - is there one? (do they need one with ABS?) So by my rough calcs braking effort is split approx. 80% front 20% rear Possible technical explanations for this apparent heavy rear wear? 1. Rear pads might be thinner (I think they probably are) 2. Rear pads might be softer and/or the disc harder 3. Rear pads/discs (as factory fit) might be made by a different OEM to the front The handbrake cable is attached to a lever on the caliper (i.e. directly operates the rear disc brakes) Other possibilities are 4. For some time I suspected my handbrake was adjusted too tight (1 click to normally park, 2 clicks to firmly apply, 3 is a struggle), Ford TIS confirms this - should be between 3 to 6 clicks full on. Those useless twats at the dealers have overtightened.....so maybe I get a lot of wear driving after a service!! 5. Maybe the lever mechanism design on the handbrake tends not to fully release the pads. 6. Sticky calipers, I've never seen a vehicle where the inner/outer pads have worn at the same rate - its usually one side worn and other side only half worn. The floating calipers dont float that well when clogged up with brake dust and you only brake lightly! Or a combination of all of these.... :D When I get around to inspecting them properly myself, I'll report back. **Caveat! :D Concerning "OEM" brake pads sourced from alternative suppliers - I found out in my mindless trawling that manfacturers often claim their products (e.g. brake pads) are OEM when, for example, they only really supplied 1996 model Ford fiesta 1.1 popular pads as OEM. So they might not really be supplying you with genuine OEM Galaxy pads! This doesn't mean to say their products are no good, but perhaps someone can tell us who genuinely OEM's Galaxy pads (and which models?)

EVSS, your 98 model Tdi is 60,000 mile change (see previous post) I wonder how many cambelt failures there really are? (and at what mileages) - I know that manufacturer nowadays cover their backs following lack of advice years ago that led to loads of failures then.. Any member/guest had a tdi/pd cambelt go?

Just to clarify to others reading this - The Ford TIS service checksheets state cambelt/tensioner/idler renewal is due at: 60,000 ml / 5 years for Tdi manual/auto (11/1994-03/2000) 40,000 ml / 5 years for PD manual/auto (04/2000 -) Looks like the PD costs a lot more to service in the long run than the old Tdi!

Sorry, I was wrong again. For your YY 1.9 PD auto it comes up with: Extended period maintenance Camshaft drive belt, tensioner and idler - Every 40,000 miles or five years renew (LTS 21 304 9) So it looks as if it should have been changed. Naughty - not a FSH? <_<

Yup, just looked at it... Unfortunately all I can see is an optional tick box for cambelt change against every service interval going. In other words - pick a number - can we do this customer? Please consult my dealer and his workshop manager ..... © JHI

Doesnt seem to work for SEAT VIN - my letters would be V and no.5 - any idea Fredt?

OK, my mistake complety missed that one! :huh: Thanks Fredt! :o If only I had these when my cars went into service! I noticed straight away: "Disc Brakes: With wheels off, check brake pads and discs for wear..." Those bastards (SEAT and FORD dealers) both repeatedly swore they don't need to remove the wheels to check the brakes. (thats 7 services) <_< :huh: Another reason to DIY!

Regular servicing is not covered on the TIS - just major workshop jobs (e.g. changing a cambelt) and Tech service bulletins

Approx 5 to 8A (when cooling thermostat demands) depending on size. A lot of cool boxes (not mine) will automatically cut off if the battery voltage drops below a certain level. My Alhambra will automatically cutoff certain electrics after a while (e.g the boot/door lights if left open) and I've a feeling it could do the same for the 12v socket on low battery voltage - anybody know?

Don't take it personally Ivor - we're all guilty of some "bad" driving habits (as defined by "advanced"? drivers). I myself am guilty of one or two. :huh: I love to freewheel well in advance (half a mile) up to junctions and try to get across without stopping. I'm absolutely certain I save a few cc of fuel this way. :D Yes, I occasionally cross my hands on the steering wheel when turning or sometimes Ieven drive with one hand :P Most of all, I just ignore all other motorists - let them wait or get out of the way is wot I say! :P One advantage of having a big MPV! :P But decelerating (or stopping natural acceleration) using handbrake? :o Remember you're dissapting all that energy in the pair of brakes that would normally only do ~30% <_< of the braking and are designed as such - smaller and non vented. In a short time you could get really hot brakes! :huh: True story: my mum took her new Astra out without disengaging handbrake fully, brakes failed (fluid boiled in both circuits) and only found out as she was leaving the motorway and couldn't slow down or stop! She was very lucky not have a serious accident.. :P ... Of course she couldn't understand when half an hour later the brakes seemed to work.. And Galaxy rear pads wear faster than front ones anyway. And ABS wouldnt work... and....

I prefer to flip up my sunroof (air brake) and throw out the anchor :huh: SEATs don't have chimes - they have a pair of castanets hung from the drivers mirror. <_<

And finally this

And this

As promised I crawled under <_< for your benefit and took some amateur snaps. I used the thinner foam (wall thickness about 1cm) from Focus DIY, the thicker stuff is too big to fit. It came in a pack 5 one metre lengths pre slit. It doesnt quite cover the rubber hoses which are about 25 mm but the metal pipework is smaller. On the long runs underneath I just snapped it on (with the partly open slit uppermost sitting against the floor) On the kinky bits used a couple of small tyraps. You can do most of the pipework if you try hard enough but keep it away from that aux heater exhaust, (might be a fire hazard). Even without tyraps most of it stays on - Used for seven years on 2 vehicles without probs. tech info: Climaflex 22-9 ODP-ZERO Right, how do I post these jpg files then? :huh: Lets try this...

(I think) there was a new design introduced during 2000 using new belt - this coincides with the introduction of VW's "WIV" option (Variable service interval - not available in UK?) which allows servicing intervals to be extended up to 50,000km! (diesel models) dependent on the service indicator. SEAT inspection and maintenance plan (service book) for my 98 Tdi clearly states 60,000 miles/90,000 km for Cambelt and Tension roller replacement required. Best way to clear up your confusion is to phone Ford customer care.

if its bothering you, do what elj did (see his earlier post)

The LCD connector strips are called zebra strips and are designed so that absolute alignment is relatively unimportant. If you do strip it down, the most likely cause for your missing segments are tarnished or dirty pcb contacts (under the zebra strip) - clean these gently with a pencil rubber and some alcohol type cleaner on a Qtip. When reassassembling, there must be sufficient pressure between LCD/zebra strip/pcb to ensure good contact. Dont know if this is accomplished by screws or by clips (in this case be v careful not to break any)

As far as I can see, the ticking noise is quite normal and is caused by some electrical quirk of the design. (I thought it might have been a spark plug) However, because of the number of complaints by customers concerned about this noise, various modifications are available. Unless your car is under warranty though , it will cost you a lot to have these modifications done. My (TDi) cars have always "ticked", its only really noticeable when idling without the radio on etc. (It tells me when the aux heater is turning on.) I dont worry about it. To boost the effectiveness of and to avoid excessive use of the aux heater, and particularly because I regularly travel to climates where -15deg C or less is not uncommon, what I have always done is to lag the underbody coolant pipes using central heating 22mm pipe foam insulation (the thinner variety ). This stops the large area of pipework losing a lot of heat in the airflow under the car, (and even worse when its wet). I find that even in the coldest weather in the UK, the aux heater will only come on for a few minutes. It also stops them get grubby and perished from the salt. Perhaps I will post a few pictures if I can get around to crawling under the car.. :rolleyes:

The white smoke as everyone calls it, is just steam (albeit with a dash of diesel fume to give it a smell when it first starts up). It the same as comes out your exhaust (more noticeable on petrol models) - formaed from condensation in the cold air which turns to steam in the engine. Because it comes out at the side of the vehicle - most people think something is wrong - it is normal. The aux heater only works in cold weather - read the thread to understand the aux heater fully.