seatkid

http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/cat/au/au.mycat?SelPg&t=rXSuTmV0rk49dK5O7y7Gd5w192j_LVU0HEeuTpwrLn6tdKwxTVaqQq1C6FatVK7HoCfHcwW9nCas1DsBZSWw6QkOKM28ueNf77THBmbdALWzcHfTwAYGuRw393qtvJZXvamFWpUljTodbbba7l16oePn758RpayDIjHMvbsbHDRGDX_Rd0J34rL5Z60uR0/CrowV3IS2Ksl2oSfW Shows 3 thickness, and 1,2,3 hole Cribbed from elsewhere....

If what you say is correct, then I am surprised you've had problems. However, (please dont take this wrong), Michelin UK website say the only Agilis tyres in the size you claim are the Agilis Alpin Winter tyre and they are T speed rated. All other Agilis tyres (non winter) are higher profile and all Agilis tyres are low speed (max T rated). A very strange choice of tyre for a Galaxy.

Once again I have no idea what you are going on about. The Galaxy requires REINFORCED tyres. These will carry a higher load rating and be marked with XL or RF. Sizes for yours are 195/60 R16 99H, 205/55 R16 98H, 215/55 R16 95H, or 225/45 R17 94V

People who have problems with tyres are invariably driving on standard tyres (load index 94 or less) and not the reinforced tyres that are required for the Shalaxy. The load rating should be 96 minimum IIRC.

Yes and yes.

The speed and parking of the motor is electronically controlled by the module. This is a PCB that is conformally coated (laquered) to protect it from water. Unfortunately its common that the coating is not too good at the edges and corrosion and track breaks occurr around the edge. I think there are some photos on the forum somewhere. Its often possible to clean and repair these PCBs.

Its possibly a timing issue which can be caused by incorrect cambelt installation or more commonly a worn bottom timing pulley (key) or a slipping camshaft timing pulley (not tightened correctly). By disconnecting the temperature sensor, the ecu changes the timing thinking the engine is freezing cold and allows you to start it. But the white smoke is a telltale of timing error. At this time of the year, the glow plug light will only light for a fraction of a second even when cold. Get the timing checked and if out then those pulleys are suspect. Going slowly up hills is probably the MAF sensor but is not related to the difficult starting.

I take it youve changed the arb drop links? What on earth is a phase 2 wga?

Old chesnut rears its head again. All diesel sold throughout Europe must comply with EN590. There should be no lubricity issues with all TDi/PD engines using EN590 compliant fuel. The smoother/quieter running is due to a higher cetane rating. Additives can raise the cetane rating by up to 2 numbers. 2 stroke oil is designed for 2 stroke petrol engines as a lubricant for cylinder walls, not for 4 stroke diesels. Diesels use direct injection so the oil would never make it to the cylinder wall before its burnt off. The 2 classes of engines work on entirely different principles. Although there may be benefits (e.g. higher centane), theres no clear or scientific evidence of benefits and its not approved to use with 4 stroke diesels by anyone - in fact VAG state "do not use fuel additives of any kind" so why risk it? Why not use a more conventional additive which at least is approved by the manufacturer of the product? I personally use and recommend Millers ECOPower products, mainly for their detergent and cetane boosting properties. Of course, ignore the "economy" claims of any additives, any economy gain will solely be due to cleaning of injector nozzles and restoring good spray patterns.

I told you earlier how to apply power, but you seem to ignore my suggestions. You seem to think the lock is physically broken and stuck in the lock position, in which case I cannot see how you will ever be able to open the door. - I personally think this is unlikely I still think you have something stuck in the lock latch and the lock lever is not completely in the correct position - its happened to me before and required a good tug on the door/door handle(opening) or a good proper shove on the door near the lock (shutting) to get the lock lever either correctly closed or in the part latch position before it will work, the motors dont have the power to work against a mechanism jammed in a intermediate position. good luck anyway

Of course DONT apply 12 volts to the Brown Wire - This is hard wired to ground (0 V). Use a fused 12 volt source for safety reasons!

There should be 5 wires to the lock motor. There are actually two motors in these modules - one for deadlock and the other for the conventional lock. Brown - this should be 0v GND Yellow Yellow /Blue Green Green/Blue The Yellow Set is one motor lock/unlock and the the Green set is the other motor lock/unlock. I hazard a guess that the single colour wires lock and the striped /blue wires unlock. Apply 12 volts to each of the wires in turn and you should hear the motors lock/unlock.

Obviously. Different wiper arms Mk1 wiper arms 7M2 955 409 / 7M2 955 409 Aero wiper arms 7M3 955 409 / 7M3 955 410 Mk1: http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/cat/au/au.mycat?SelPg&t=tximLH0Ypiw4GKYs9ULOFYZZ/wrkQfUGq9qmLJhHJhy3GKRTVzqiILcu4DS3OKamukxaY51XgbgtKaGEg9I4_a0Ypj3VraI6pChbYimkCCpPsp3OHnWxZV5FJsCHHKC9gBH0Su7IrjalCyDLbkzMLrEQiLn0qQt0b9NhVTJ78QDxmV5NeDZ9IzToEF6n8MENyA/UaY9INn_dBGQ= Mk2: http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/cat/au/au.mycat?SelPg&t=zGs3WQZrN1lcazdZjjFfYP0qbn_fMrgX0hs3Wf20t2nMazUmLEkzVcxdcUHMSzfTwTj_7W_6okD9bJ9tHC9TiGxqUXZEG99/oNamsk_j6XNCmBBNHIeJR9xmNAXIYV8UAG21iw4H8Tns0Rv707xgcf1Hddtpij7r1tEhd3qpm43_BrK8yzYdINNs14AEGu_Xj5QgK4lTZ8lDJSkp

I can still remember when the standard dynamo was 17 amps and the "heavy duty" fitted to large cars was 22 amps - both gave no output at idle speeds (and batteries were lucky to last 2 years...)

Ouch! Dont know, but I guess it involves removing wheel liner (easy), possibly bumper (not so easy), internal plastic trim on A pillar, maybe other trim (anybodys guess) and undoing a load of bolts.... good luck....

The 1st photo looks like a new water pump fitted - the jubilee clip is not a standard VAG clip. Oil could be from sloppy oil filter change/spillage, leakage from turbo area (oil supply pipe - they can split/crack) or oil from blowing boost pipework/intercooler - in which case I would be a bit concerned as that indicates a failing turbo (bearing) - in theory there should be very little oil in the intercooler. The tywraps show a bodge to stop the i/c pipework blowing apart - which sometimes it does if there is an underlying problem again associated with the turbo.

PD engines (i.e. Mk2 diesels) can suffer from faulty injector loom wiring/connectors. These make injectors operate intermittently usually when there is significant movement of the engine block and lead to a period of rough running /loss of power. The solution is a new (around £60 IIRC) or sometimes just removing the connectors to the injectors, then cleaning and tightening up the connector receptacles with some long nose pliers does the trick. The wiring loom is under the rocker cover - photos etc are on the forum - search

Did this problem manifest itself before the water pump change? If not - it could well be a warranty job. I've known on my previous galaxy to have a thermostat that wouldnt close due to some black sealing gunge (from the factory) that got lodged in it. (i.e. running cold). Yes I think if it was gasket/head problem it would show up regularly - but it also sounds as if you maybe be losing coolant.

I'd go with the clutch dragging when cold theory......when it is difficult, switch off engine and try selecting gears then - is it easy?

First check nothing is jammed in the door/body latch, usually the seatbelt - if so, the door latch may not actually be fully closed and you may need either to push the door hard in to click the latch shut or give it a yank to pull it back to the first latch position. Otherwise, the deadlock may be engaged and the wire in the door gaitor is broken and so unable to release the deadlock. If you have the door panel off then the two options would be to release the deadlock manually (not sure this can be done as I think they are motor driven) or applying power directly to the deadlock motor. If I have time I'll look it up later on the TIS cd.

Whoops! Sorry. But I'm sure the MK2 must have a similar button or button sequence to select "program mode"..

Disconnected plug is for the booster or auxialliary heater - possibly disconnected because it has a problem - usually the glowplug - and would belch out white smoke if reconnected (in cold weather) - see FAQs for information on fixing the booster heater. Eurrgh! those brake pipes are very badly corroded and I'm not surprised they failed the MOT! Disturbing amount of corrosion for a 2006 model - has it been driven around in the sea or something?

Posted in the the wrong section, repost in the MkIII Technical section to get help.

Its the small round button sandwiched between left temp control set and the right fan speed set. You need a pen or small screwdriver to operate it. The F<->C should only be enabled when this small button is depressed.

Check the PAS belt is tight.