seatkid

Ever heard of YELLOW PAGES or THOMSON LOCAL DIRECTORY? You might even try GOOGLE!! Good luck :)

Maybe you plumbed the cooling system into the fuel system....... :)

A very sad story. It appears to be a Zafira and from the damage it looks like it rolled. As people were thrown from the vehicle it looks likely some of the passengers were not wearing their seat belts. Forum members please note: EVERYONE including passegers should wear their seatbelt at all times. Wearing your seatbelt at all times is likely to save your life. I KNOW FROM PERSONAL EXPERIENCE. It has saved me in a head-on.

If anyone is interested, Fords are selling Galaxys....be sure to be quick before they run out.... :P

:lol: Here we go again..... Is it the 990cc twin cylinder model? :wub: Any garage that cant diagnose and repair a non-sparker doesnt deserve to be called a garage.

The ECU abandons throttle readings and the engine will revert to idle. You probably need to switch off ignition to reset this condition. Most likely candidate for reported fault. AFAIK Mk1 Tdi's don't have a limp home mode like the PD Tdi's. Around

Have you tried a new air filter?

I've run mine on (filtered) seawater, it ran Ok, just a little gurgly, but as I only averaged 9.3mpg I won't be using it again.... :ph34r:

try VW Spares or Euro Car Parts or GFS Car Parts Look under VW Sharan or Seat Alhambra for equivalent parts....

:) No half respectable garage would send a car out with "2k" left on the pads..... thats worn out.....you could use 2k's worth in under 100 miles of heavy braking. Probably some more bullshit cos you can't measure a pad as 2k = paper thin New discs and pads.....when were they last changed? About 18 months ago..since then done about 9k miles ago roughly.Possibly more as we moved from scotland down to here....On my service sheet that i was given..it said check brakes in 2k miles. Sounds like the pads were changed when the discs should also have been changed. Worn discs mean the pads wear out ultra quick - 10k instead of 40k.... As I said earlier - brake judder are a sign that the discs are warped / worn badly and so should be changed.

The tone of this thread is slipping again...... :) Brakes are a dirty job, and depending on the maintenance or rather lack of, can be a pig of a job. Good tools are essential, some muscle and patience. You may have to drill out the screw holding the disc, its often rusted away or been butchered. Remember to get plenty of brake cleaner and paper towelling. Don't do it on a pristine driveway and dust masks/gloves are highly recommended.

:) No half respectable garage would send a car out with "2k" left on the pads..... thats worn out.....you could use 2k's worth in under 100 miles of heavy braking. Probably some more bullshit cos you can't measure a pad as 2k = paper thin New discs and pads.....when were they last changed?

If they judder when you brake, then you should change your discs and pads.....do the fronts.....

MM... that looks like an interesting sex toy...... :) :)

I think the easiest way to fix all of MO4's problems is for someone to buy her a new car! :) I think new discs and pads will fix it though..... sounds as if the discs are warped (not unlike my sense of humour) and generally clapped out (not unlike my sense of humour) :)

A little knowledge is a dangerous thing...... MO4, You are confusing multiple pieces of information. Performance (turbo) issues are often caused by MAF problems or vacuum system problems. Vacuum system problems can affect your brakes. But the MAF has nothing to do with your brakes. I doubt that dipping your clutch affects your brakes. You are probably pressing harder on the brakes at the same time as dipping the clutch. Rusty brakes discs? Rust is to be expected on certain parts (e.g. the edges) but not elsewhere. In any case rusty discs dont squeal they grrrate.... Squealing discs are commonly due to 1. Incorrectly fitted or missing springy bits that should come with the pads.... 2. Glazed pads and or discs. 3. Crap/cheap brake pads. Typically brake squeal only occurs at certain (slowish) speeds and with light applied pressure. Slightly more pressure and the squeal will disappear. Try some aggressive braking....otherwise you have to strip, clean and rough up your pads and discs with some sandpaper....and check all the springy bits are there and correctly fitted. P.s. There should not be any copper grease anywhere near your brakes :) .....copper grease belongs up the rectum of those garage mechanics that insist on smearing it all over the battery terminals/door locks/hinges etc. where it has absolutely no effect whatsoever apart from acquiring dust and dirt and then getting all over your clothes....... :)

:D Thank god for that! It must have been a problem with the paint mixing machine...... :D

....erm...no...

I would think the police would be very curious as to why you were watching Eastenders at the same time as driving your 2 ton machine at 70mph+ down the motorway.... :ph34r:

Sounds more like piston slap which tends to disappear under load. That means worn bores..... If its started to burn oil then try a "thicker" grade, if you know what I mean, otherwise just turn the radio up....

There is no to buy anything! ;) The cameras are painted bright yellow. :ph34r: All you need is to open your eyes and look! :D ;)

Sounds like another wire in the tailgate loom is broken. Try a search....

A nice set of wheel trims would finish it off.... :ph34r:

On a 110bhp model that means ....Low oil pressure... could be... 1. Low Oil 2. Oil too thin (should be 5-40W,10-40W or 15-40W not 5-30W) 3. Worn out engine (does it burn oil?) 4. Oil pressure switch dicky 5. Oil filter blocked. Does it have a genuine filter? They have a bypass valve. 6. Oil pump failing 7. Oil pressure relief valve sticking 8. Dicky wiring Driving with a flashing oil light can mean imminent engine destruction (any strange noises?)

Try a new air filter first of all.....