seatkid

Are you sure you don't "ride" the clutch (i.e. use it as a footrest)? Some people do this without realising. 40k is useless and 2 clutches in 25k is disastrous. You need to inspect the worn out clutches to determine the cause, is it friction plate wear - oil contamination from leaking slave cylinders has been reported, this needs to be checked. Also if your model has a Dual Mass Flywheel - this may the subject of a manufacturers recall Use only OEM replacements and a garage you can trust. Has the same garage done all the changes and surely you asked them to investigate/comment on the failures.

damaged diaphram, the sensor is a "differential" type, one side measures the boost pressure wrt to the other side - atmosphere. If you can read the numbers on the sensor you might find a supplier (car or electronics).

That's nowt...heres a pic of my town...... There's still a hosepipe ban though.... :lol:

Don't know what chicanery this is, R134A is a colourless gas, Might be dye he put in. His gauges doesn't sound like any setup I've seen. On the evidence, I would say that the problem lies in the electromagnetic clutch. It may have worn out, or have an electrical problem, or be contaminated with oil - basically the compressor isn't being driven when engaged - the clue being the quiet click instead of the loud clack! On the other hand the compressor may have seized causing the a/c clutch to burn out. Options: 1. First check the voltage to the compressor, too low a voltage maybe the reason the clutch is working correctly. 2. You could go to kwikfit for an a/con topup @

1. Fit new pipe and new O rings. 2. Have the system flushed by an aircon specialist. 3. Fit a new dryer 4. Using a/c refill machine, evacuate for at least 1 preferably 2 hours 5. Refill gas along with the correct amount of oil required **important unless you want a seized compressor** The Ford TIS Cd has the PAG46 oil quantities, you may want to study this to calculate the correct amount. If you skip point 2 and 3 then you will have to guess how much oil was lost.

18 mpg in a TDi?? I'd be worried about that! :lol: You could have a boost leak.....Check boost piping is all secure. Check the joints for leaks. Also check the intercooler - it may be holed. If the whistling is very loud and pure in tone - the turbo may be damaged (unbalanced vanes). If the whistling is musical then it may be your passenger - trying to contain their anxiety! :18:

Yes

58mpg....Being recovered by a breakdown truck doesn't count BAZ! :lol:

:lol:

Nah...the 1st one is better......delivery miles only (0 miles!) :lol:

I think its quite normal. Oil pressure takes up the play. My 3 yr old Skoda does the same.

Here they go again. These gas leaks turns them into babbling sniffers. :rolleyes: :( show me a diesel that can match my mpg i think not. Yep, he's right! I don't think mines capable of 18mpg no matter how hard I push it.... :D

Which suggests the exhaust is hitting the bodywork. On your pics the downpipe looks close..... Only way to check is to get the car on a ramp, running and swing about on various parts of the cars exhaust and jiggle those heatshields. Someting the kwikfit guys will do glady....for free! You don't have to DIY all the time.... :angry2:

:angry2: I think its a good possibility that the rattle is an exhaust related problem. As I tried to say earlier, things like heat shields can become loose on old cars due to rust. Maybe the exhaust is hitting the bodywork. But if you prefer to crawl under your car........ :P

Their reply is basically "No guarantee given mate, but here is some bulls**t to impress you in the meantime, we also thrown a load of porkies to throw you off the scent..." The PD is the smokiest engine in the world! Is that why it was one of the first EURO IV compliant engines on the market? The units are designed to work within all the preset limits Bosch build into the ecu, it's the best we can get from the maximums - so still in DIY mod safe comfort zone. :angry2: The fact is these boxes override the limits and fool the ECU...... The facts are You will perceive "better" performance, although in reality most of this "improvement" will be at the low to mid end. Your mpg will be worse - the idea it will be better is ludicrous, the box fools the ECU and the mpg reading on the trip computer will be inaccurate. Your engine will no longer comply with EU law Your engine will smoke a lot and your oil will be sooted up in a fraction of the normal service interval leading to long term wear problems. Your engine will potentially be subject to stresses beyond its design limit causing damage such as warped heads. (See overheating posts) Your transmission and brakes are not designed to cope with "extra performance". You will be poisoning old ladies and children and dirtying streets and buildings. You will be invalidating your insurance unless you DECLARE IT. When you sell your car you will be breaking the law if you do not declare your car was modified in this way.

Take it to kwikfit, ask them to have a look, they will lift the car and look with the engine running. In my experience they are very helpful and minor repairs are usually FOC. In any case you can always say I need to think about it......

At Warp Factor 7 the heat shield starts to detach........preceded by a rattling sound...... She canny take much mo of this, Cap'n....

Remember the 1.9 engine is a VW unit - get the engine number and try phoning your local VW and SEAT dealers and barter. Also try www.gsfcarparts.com (listed as

Were the drop links from Ebay? The latest proper Ford part look much better and cost me

PPPPPS Have you changed the engine? Perhaps for a 1.9Tdi? :angry2: Sorry....couldn't resist..... :P

Correct. If the thermostat is OK, the radiator will remain cold/cool until the temperature starts to reach Normal, then you should see top of radiator start to heat. Bottom usually remains cool unless running at full power. Faulty thermostat that is open, you will see whole radiator warm fairly quickly.

Kwikfit usually running a promotion of some sorts, and will always price match Currently Firestone F590 Fuelsaver 195/65T15 Buy 2 of these Firestone tyres for

But he has an old Mk1 probably on 195 15 65 tyres. Each member should check his own vehicle - there are many variables - model, engine, tyre size and even model year

Woah! 50psi sounds way high! :rolleyes: Always refer to your vehicle documentation for tyre pressures. Mine has detailed tyre pressure info on the inside of the fuel filler flap.

I would say it was broken... :rolleyes: