NikpV

Theorectical: What happens with a rear end shunt not near any junctions etc when there are no witnesses. :blink:

:( :blink: :blink: :(

Oh God ... Do you get burn in with Lcd screens ?????? :blink: :blink: :P :( :( :D

Huh Deja Vu :blink: :blink: Cheers Neil Hi Galaxy99 - your post got posted twice - Neil appears to have combined them

here goes - ......

there is a little jig which locates the spring in the lock until the paddle and clip goes on - the paddle is then rotated until it free te spring - couldn't find anything on tis about it but there are some diagrams (which I have at home) wich I found for another poster - Jim I think in the last couple of days - I will have a look tonight if neil doesnt post anything first. getting lock out his problem is similar there are about 8 diagrams/stages for re-assembling the barrel onto the handle

Make sure you have the radio code before disconnecting the battery :blink:

No - front and rear heater switches on the right, Hazard s and parking sensors on the left

locking the door with the key, keep key turned hard over after locking, hold and all the windows will close as well (and load area windows if electric)

does it ever come open when closing it using 'global closing' from outside the car, just wondered if the 'safety' feature is activating (based on the current in the motor) because of a tight runner for the window, may be marginal so only happens sometimes (this safety interlock is disabled when using global closing)

Probably the Bendix bearing need greasing although I think you have to take the starter out to do it, one recent poster had it doing this for a year before failing.

Sounds like it could be the wires in the loom between the door and a-pillar (drivers side)

Ah - you didn't say without the key, with the doorcard off you may be able to unclip the paddle to allow the handle and barrel to rotate out, you need to be able to push the paddle in to release the clip holding it. To remove the barrel entirely you need to rotate the key by 90 degrees to release the free wheel sleeve - I reckon this is the bit he has to break and replace.

Having another go - front door this time :D Fit key in door handle lock cylinder. Loosen tolerance screw -6- on door lock. Remove torx screw -3-. Push door handle forwards, turn key through 45

I'm gobsmacked it Passed :blink: :D :D :D :D

we had this see brake pad saga eventually ford changed the instrument cluster - three times now it works fine :blink:

I would haved added it to the faq :blink: but there is already a few waiting to be added - not sure the pm system is working

='Lowest-observed effect level' :The lowest dose of substance in a study or group of studies that produces biologically significant increases in frequency or severity of any effects in the exposed humans or animals. Huh - not seen that one before :blink: :D

Ive just watched the way you levered my brother out - you thug - you'll get nowt out of me :D :D :D :D :D

Metal Coathangers.... now theres a blast from the past. When did you last see a metal one ? All the modern ones seem to be plastic. Not only do they break VERY easily but you cant use them as replacement radio aerials or unwind them to create a useful drain poking tool. I darent even think about the fire risk when using plastic coathangers for the "Blue Peter Advent (candle thingy)" Sorry, cant remember the proper word :huh: After I posted I wondered if they were still around - I've always got a couple in the shed for just such tasks as wire threading and drain unblocking :lol: ;) :lol:

Usually you can use two bits of metal coathanger - each about 6 inches long bent into a 'U' shape with about 40mm between the ends - insert into holes - push apart (I think) and pull head unit out - Ps no broken nails ;) :lol: :huh:

Thanks MM I couldn't work out when they changed from infra-red to wireless See this link for Seatkids - Ford procedure Probably worth trying first - dealer can test the strength of the wireless output :huh: ;)

I have a mkII but I seen to recall from other posts that the sensors were little domes but may be completely off track here, from the age of the vehicle I am assuming that its an infra red remote - if its not there is a slightly different procedure I think. Sorry no Idea about the service number - I'm at work and no references here

Sorry Having read your post this morning I've just realised that you wanted the front door - doh :huh: - I will have another look tonight when I'm at home !!! sorry got it into my head it was a rear door ;)

Is there another sensor for the remote locking at the back of the car, if you point at this click unlock 3 times during the programming period - does the door led flash?