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NikpV

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Everything posted by NikpV

  1. this was an expensive 4 bike (bought the 4th option at the time of purchase) fits on tail gate -, bikes are individually lockable all bits present it doesnt use straps - was extremly secure and sits just above the number plate as before needs collecting - I dont know if it fits mk1 collection between huntingdon and peterborough - Im not going to box for courier collection you need to email me on nikpv at nasuwt dot net
  2. Compressor and glowplug gone
  3. If you have 2 keys already programmed to the PATS then you can program a third yourself
  4. yes thanks mate - busy :34: and :4: my new Sharan
  5. Sold my galaxy and so I have for the Mk2 Air compressor for air con - new boxed (without the clutch assembly) Tonneau cover - dusty :-) New glow plug for aux heater need picking up from east midlands email me on nikpv at nasuwt dot net (I dont check back on this forum very often)
  6. from the suggestion thread
  7. bloody hell 'HE'S ALIVE' :rolleyes: Well yes but the poor old gal is dying - looking to replace with mk3 sharan :41:
  8. Had exactly these symptoms - turned out to be the injector wiring loom - get the codes read it should show up (Im assuming its one of the last Mk2s
  9. moved to mkIII section :-)
  10. Hiya Just a note about the fuel gauge - early 2001 models had an incompatability between fuel sensor and instrument cluster - after many trip to the deal;er in 2002 they replaced the instrument cluster and the problem went away and I also got the indicator for the Cruise control which was absent on the previous unit :-) details hazy it was 10 yeears ago but the symptoms were the same as you describe
  11. well I have had exactly the same symptoms as you - had everything checked finally bit the bullet and had the head gasket replaced and head pressure tested etc head was skimmed as well - now it drives beautifully :-) I have had spent 3 years topping up water - sometimers a lot sometimes hardly any oh and it never has overheated beyond 100 and that only twice until about 2 months ago
  12. Yeah sorry SEATKID I saw the 2010 date and moved it, then went off and did something else before I read your replies
  13. yes start posting them and put links here and I will try and make some sense by moving the posts to one thread ... over to you ....
  14. Its all in the manual and it is easier to explain with pictures but here goes.... 1. Push all the rear passenger headrests down - you need to squeeze the release button located on the n/s plastic trim where the n/s headrest steel mount goes into the top of the seat back at the same time as pushing the headrest down. 2. put all the rear passenger seat backs down - middle and back rows - by lifting the small lever located between the back and base on the side opposite the seat belt clip - alternately these same levers stick out rear of the seat and can be pushed downwards when behind the seats to release the backs. 3. starting with the middle row, flip the base of each seat up and forward by either pulling up the large lever located on the side of the base at floor level, or alternatively pulling the red loop located under the seat from behind toward the rear of the vehicle. If you look under the rear seats from the rear hatch you will see the red fabric loops and can try it out. 4. with all seats standing on end, work from the back and hold the top of the seat with one hand and with the other hand squeeze together the two horizontal metal bars which were under the seat but should now be facing you. This will release the latches holding the seat in the floor. At the same time push the top forward to lift the latches clear of the floor and release the bars. 5. Carefully lift the seats out the car - the seats are very heavy so dont try to remove the rear row of seats through the side doors unless you are strong enough to hold these seats and juggle them at arms length otherwise you will likely do some expensive damage to the paintwork.. Women and weak men will probably require assistance to lift these seats out of the car (No offence intended but they are pretty heavy) so its the same for a mk3 galaxy then ??? assuming that a 2010 galaxy is a mk3 :-)
  15. Thank you very much for the quick reply - i entered my serial code from the book into an online keycode place, but it came up with the same code, so must be a different radio. Have just ordered keys to take out the radio and see what serial is actually on it and hopefully get it up and running again. Thanks again.Lee couple of bent bits of metal coat hanger is enough to get radio out :-)
  16. check the connections from the pads
  17. how many layers of fuses have you looked through :rolleyes:
  18. email it as an attachment to" nikpv AT nasuwt DOT net" and I will try
  19. Hi Chris I read through these posts I cant see where he says its fixed .... . I woud have thought that this would be very unsusal for a car of this age and assumed its the freee wheel type??? . I saw your post looking for a photo of the alternator so guessedyou were on this track as well. I wonder if in the past its been changed to a fixed pulley and they slackened the tension on the belt because of this problem, if its now been put back on tight would the problem now shows -
  20. have you tested the lternator pulley for freewheel ?
  21. if guess he used "10k boost power restorer" :unsure:
  22. "you're going the wrong way ...." tell her to walk :rolleyes:
  23. Thanks for a super speedy response! :) I assume that the air con wont be working at the moment then?! I didn't find any bolt in the undertray - do I need to source one and then just bolt it back on? Any pointers on where it goes and how easy it is to fix? :( Thanks. well it depends on whether the splines inside have been worn away - usually they have and so its time for an new clutch plate, whole clutch or whole compressor assembly depending on whats avalable (ford sell the clutch assemply or the compressor with the clutch assembly - but not the plate IIRC). The shaft of the compressor is hard and usually as the bolt has come undone slowly the splines on the shaft have worn away the splines inside the clutch plate except o the outside end which has pulled off the shaft first (as on your photo) . Location of compressor - face the engine, look down LHS just under the alternator.
  24. aha your air con clutch plate has fallen off after the retaining bolt has come undone- usually the hardened spline shaft wears the splines away on one side (turn it over do the slines show on both sides) you should also have a retaining bolt
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