Vanbursta

Or you can do what the Haynes says and use a Garden Spade and a bit of carpet!!! Actually a Royal Mail van helpfully removed the glass for me, I snapped it back in (the mirror not the mail van - and no the glass didn't break) but something is wrong now as it vibrates like mad (and its rattling and driving me barmy!!). So I have got to take it out again and fix whatever is causing the "wobble".

Can somebody please tell me how to remove the passenger side exterior rear view mirror glass (can't seem to find any details anywhere. Thanks

See this thread :- http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=9497 Hope it helps!

See this thread :- http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=9497 Hope it helps!

Hmmm, the red LED should/will flash when the buttons are pressed, this does not affect the way the remote works, it simply is to let you know you have pressed a button. Did Ford test to see if it was outputting an infra red signal, the most common fault with the infra red remotes (after batteries) is that the LED no longer puts out any signal, if you ask the dealer nicely they will probably be able to test it for you for free. If it isn't putting out a signal then you can either 1) Ask a friend who is good with a soldering iron to replace the LED (They are available from Maplin, 4mm, 95nm, Infra red LED, cost approx

when did they do a 2.9 in the Galaxy? Since it was rebored and fitted with hepolites!! OK so I made a small mistake!!

Try replacing the yellow sender on the thermostat, this one tells the ECU what temp the engine is at and if faulty will over / under fuel the engine (which would cause the popping you describe).

I would check the wiring loom between the A post and the passenger door (look inside the rubber boot for broken wire(s)) and the central locking / alarm unit under the passenger seat in the well (is there any sign of water ingress?) Do your interior lights work?

Yes the equivalent Galaxy box is the same. Yes they are expensive new IRO

I would check that BOTH cables are plugged in to the back of the clocks, one takes care of the lighting / warning lights and the other does the speedo rev counter and display. Only takes 2 minutes and costs nothing.

Turn the key to lock position then return to central position, then turn to lock position again, this will lock the car but won't enable deadlocking or the alarm. I think you have to do the 2 turns within 2 seconds. The light in the drivers door will go off but the car will be locked.

When I have the headlights on, my Gals dash lights are flickering badly at idle, doesn't happen unless the lights are on and I think it might be a bad earth (or could be the alternator), has anyone else come across this and were should I start?

Sorry I just noticed you are stuck at step 8, if the light is staying on in the door and it won't accept the remote, then the remote is not putting out a signal, if you go to your local Ford they will test the remote output and it shouldn't cost anything, I bought a new one from eBay for the princely sum of

I do now Cathy, I had exactly the same problem as you when the control module was replaced, it would not go into programming mode no matter what I tried, in the end I had it reprogrammed at Fords (cost

Top man, I can't beleive that they would leave 2 holes open like that - especially if they lead into the car!!

Yes on RHD they would be the other way round, the attached PDF shows exactly this so of course you need to mirro it for LHD

Please bear with me as this post is quite long, but it is the CORRECT method and has been tested and works on a number of cars. As some of you will know I have an early Gal with the infra red remote locking, neither of the instructions supplied in the drivers handbooks worked for me, I just couldn't get it to go into programming mode no matter what I tried. I had to have the central locking / alarm control module under the passenger seat replaced because of water ingress and whilst everything else was working, there was NO WAY to program the remote control. In desperation I finally went to the local VW garage and asked them to have a look for me, the service manager (by chance) had been the service manager for our local Ford garage a couple of years previously and was instantly able to SHOW me what was wrong, new units are programmed with a default setting of 0 and with a setting of 0000 for the last access (last access is a code for the garage that last accessed the unit for programming), sure enough as soon as he accessed the module from the VW machine the code was proven to be 0, this means that the Ford garage did NOT even attempt to program it when fitted. I went back to the local Ford and spoke to the service manager, neither he nor his master tech had ever heard of programming the module "we just bung em in and they work", they would not even connect it up to WDS to have a look! they insisted that I was wrong and they were right. I went to another Ford garage and they told me the same, but they would connect the car to WDS to double check, sure enough when they connect it, it said on the screen "unprogrammed, would you like to program Y/N", it took all of about 12 seconds and then stated "program complete" and guess what, I can now program the remote with the usual 3 turns in the drivers door trick. The moral here is that it doesn't seem that any Ford garages know the unit has to be programmed so if you have to have a new one fitted INSIST that they do it or you will not be able to program the remote, they will try to make you feel small and say that you are talking rubbish, but I promise you it is necessary. Further to all this I spoke to Ford's technical hotline and they confirmed that any unit fitted as a replacement to the original MUST be programmed or it will default to limited operation. I also manged to CONFIRM the programming procedure for the remote controls and I have attached them below, I have tried and tested BOTH methods and they BOTH work for their respective vehicles. A ) Vehicles from 08 95 to 05 96, the programming procedure is as below:- Hold the remote control in the direction of the vehicle, press the UNLOCKING button 3 times within 5 seconds, the control light on the drivers door will then illuminate (the system is in programming mode), within this period press and hold the unlocking button, then press the locking button 3 times, if the control light in the drivers door flashes then the system accepted the remote, you can program all further remotes within 20 seconds. B ) Vehicles from 05 96 onwards 1. Close all the vehicle doors. 2. Note: Make sure the door lock cylinder is held in the unlock position for more than 0.5 seconds. Insert the key into the driver door lock cylinder and turn the key from the rest position to the unlock position three times within five seconds. 3. The door lock light emitting diodes (LED)s will illuminate for 15 seconds during the remote transmitter programming mode, allowing the remote transmitter to be programmed. 4. Remove the key from the driver door lock cylinder and aim the remote transmitter at the interior rear view mirror. 5. Press and hold the LOCK button on the remote transmitter. 6. While holding the LOCK button down, press the UNLOCK button three times on the remote transmitter. 7. Release both buttons simultaneously. 8. Make sure the door lock LEDs flash five times, confirming that the remote transmitter has been programmed. 9. After a remote transmitter has been successfully programmed, the GEM will reset the programming mode, allowing a further 15 seconds to program the next remote transmitter. 10. To program additional remote transmitters, repeat steps 4 to 8. NOTE There is some "overlap between the dates that the procedure changed, if your vehicle was built between these dates, then "one or the other" method will work according to Ford Tech, basically dependant on where your Gal was built, it may have the old system they carried over from other VW vehicles or the later system that Ford co designed. I really hope this helps someone else out and that they don't have to go through the same hassle I as have for the last 4 months trying to get my local Ford garage to realise that they were wrong. I did get an apology when I took the receipt for the work in, not that it really helps as they could have solved it a LONG time ago if only they had plugged the Gal into their WDS! and I wonder how many more they have done incorrectly (bearing in mind they didn't know that it had to be programmed and in fact insisted it didn't need it). Course it could just be because I have an old car and they can' be bothered.

Heres a Photo of the revised pollen filter on the passenger side - note the extra plastic added to where the pollen filter touches the drain channel on the plastic engine cover. And this is a pollen filter that HASN'T had the modified cover:- And here is the new foam filter for the Driver side:- And here is the complete fitting procedure including the modification that must be made to the Carbon canister:- Pollen_Filter_renewal_to_stop_water_ingress.pdf

I had exactly the same problem, eventually cruise control came back but it was very intermittent, I reseated the hose as per the many other posts and it made no difference, I started chasing wiring and found no fault with it, it turned out to be the cruise control module which is located on the passenger side of the dash to the left of the radio. In answer to your questions I never heard any clicking or other noises from the control box, and I don't now even though it works perfectly (some people say you can hear the realy click, but mine never has been audible on the new box). The canister is a push fit, there are 3 rubber mountings and you just pull the metal bracket out of the holes, when you put it back it is a LOT easier if you use some fairy liquid on the mounting rubbers, you can get away without removing the gearbox control unit (mounted on the inner wing the other side of the pump) If you remove the top of the steering column shroud (the black plastic bit held in with 2 screws with the hazard flasher switch sticking out through it), you can disconnect the 5 pin connector from the back of the cruise control switch, with the ignition on you should get 12 volts if you earth one side of a multimeter and put the other probe on one of the wires on the very end of the connector (I can't remember which end so try both). If you don't get 12 volts you either have a wiring fault or more likely your cruise control module is broken. The ford part number for the cruise control box is Finis Number 7203353 and it retails at about

I recently replaced the central locking / alarm control box, everything now works as it should with the exception of the infra red remote locking (which cannot be programmed as the control box does not know the car has it), I finally discovered thet the new box has to be "coded" to tell it what functions the car has, by default this is set to 0 on a new box (a sort of basic setting), Ford can't reprogram the unit without the original code which tells it how to work as the car is more than 5 years old and they don't keep the records. My question is, does anyone have the same model as me and if so can they PLEASE read the code from this unit (I think it can be done with VAG com as I saw it done to my car today in a VW garage and the code was DEF set to 0 as I saw it myself), as this will allow the VW guys to re-enable the missing feature(s). If you replace this box with a NEW one this HAS to be done, if you use a scrap one then it is already programmed with the code and therefore does NOT need to be done. Please help if you can as I am now completely stuck.

I would be REALLY happy if I could get even close to your MPG, 14-20mpg round town, 25-27mpg on a run!!! Luckily I have a friend who follows me everywhere with his tanker :-)

Can someone please tell me how to remove the spark plug leads, they won't pull off and the local Fords say I need a special tool, anybody know what this tool is and where to get one please? Fords want to charge me

I did find the instructions, but it turns out the infra red LED on the remote was duff, replaced it now and it is working OK, BUT the manual says that if you use a new remote, or the buttons are pressed too many times out of range, the remote has to be resyncronised with the car (also I have fitted a new central locking / alarm box and apparently it has to be resynced by Ford), to do so the dealer has to connect the car to VAG COM or FDS2000, I don't want to pay sixty five quid for the privelege though. You can only reprogram the remote if it hasn't gone out of sync and the 3 turns in the drivers door lock does NOT work with the infra red version, it only works with the radio one. Basically I would rather give the cash to someone on the forums who can reprogram it.

Do you have the revised pollen filter cover fitted? if not water can still get in through the pollen filter.

Please excuse my ignorance but where do you get the lead and software for the VAG COM, I am asking because I have an early Gal with the Infra-red remote and apparently if you renew the fob, it needs to be reprogrammed to the car by Ford, I assume this is done within the software somewhere? As they want