sparky Paul

Here you go... http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=13380&st=45&p=109948entry109948 :)

Delphi are decent enough quality factor parts. If you have a look in the FAQ sticky at the top of this section, or perhaps search the forum, I'm sure there is a guide somewhere to replacing front discs/pads, with pics.

Could still be tailgate wiring, the tailgate release is electrically operated. Can you hear the solenoid when you lift the tailgate release? You can also override the electrical release by inserting the key and turning it past the the normal unlock position until you hear the boot latch release, a cam on the back of the lock barrel physically operates the boot release. If that doesn't work, the lock itself is probably faulty, and you may have to gain access into the tailgate panel from inside the car.

If you are sure you have the external thermostat, it is a sealed lump and they are about £30 from the dealer. Part number is 1125023. The dealer may insist that your car is fitted with the insert thermostat fitted to 2.0 and early 2.3 models. If the dealer has difficulty locating the part on the system, tell them to look in the section where the radiator pipework is.

As Chris said, could still be very early signs of HGF, or possibly cracks in the head. The only way to find out what is going on for sure is to remove the head. If the gasket does turn out to be sound, then the head is the next suspect. I have heard of cases where the liquid glass stuff (such as Kalimex Seal-Up or Holts Wondarweld) has been effective for micro-cracks, but K-Seal is, at best, only a temporary fix.

That's good to know, the only info I've seen regarding heated screen costs is from previous posts on here... I've also seen screens at £125+VAT including fitting, but they weren't heated.

Repairs were usually free, but I notice a few companies are now charging £10 excess - still free on mine, but OH's insurance excess is £10 for repair, but £100 for replacement. :angry2: We've had the Galaxy now for nearly 8 years, and it doesn't seems particularly prone to windscreen damage... I've only collected a small star which happened shortly after I got the car.

OP says he hasn't got fully comp. insurance. Out of interest, which company has

Yes, I was also advised that the top mount and lock nuts were seperate, but when the bits arrived, the caps had lock nuts attached... ...so I still have two spare lock nuts.:blush:

As EGR is an engine fault, I guess you have had a OBDII reader on it. Have you had it connected to VAG-COM? - this is the only interface that will communicate with the gearbox. Do you know if the replacement gearbox has ever worked correctly?

IIRC, the central locking module under the passenger seat was done away with from late '98 onwards models, so op shouldn't have that problem. As gregers said above, double check the tailgate wiring, you may have missed some wires that are broken internally - give them all a pull to check. Assuming the tailgate wiring is all correct, next favourite to look at has to be the wiring to the doors - particularly driver's door.

Welcome to the forum! :unsure: This thread might be of some help http://www.fordgalax...showtopic=21136 ...sounds like VW dealer is your best bet.

Unless the bump stops are visibly damaged, I wouldn't change them, they're as tough as old boots. There isn't a lot else up there... top mount, bearing and top cap (the bit you can see under the bonnet). The top mount and bearing comes as a kit, so renew those together if possible. In theory, the top cap should be changed too as it has a locking nut, but if they are in good condition you can reuse and studlock, or knock the nut off and replace. Mine were rusted through. It's possible to change the top mount without removing the struts, but the bearing isn't easy - the springs have to be compressed. Easier and safer with the struts out, but if removing the struts, you have to watch out for the pinch bolt on the hub carrier - they corrode in the gap and are very prone to shearing. Use plenty of heat on the casting, and make sure you have replacement bolts to hand. Alternatively, take the whole lot off, complete with hub carrier. ARB bushes are easy, the bushes are split, just undo the clamps holding them to the front cross member and replace.

If it's really excessive movement in the top mounts you have noticed, that's completely normal when the car's weight is off the suspension.

I'm not sure I can help with part numbers, but the only thing you really have to consider is that there are only two types - the early assembly which has four scuttle mounting bolts, and the later type which has three. The changeover was around 98/99 model year, so yours should be the early type. If you check out the FAQ section (stickied at the top of this Technical section) you will find some useful info regarding repairing your old linkage, might be of some use to you. By the way, welcome to the forum! :blink:

The shockers are the same, but originally the cars were fitted with different spring rates for the different engine, gearbox and equipment combinations. However, aftermarket coil spring suppliers seem to go for a one-size-fits-all strategy, so if the springs look new there's a good chance they will be suitable. Factory fit coil springs can be identified by coloured bands which identify the strength of the spring.

You problem with engaging gears sounds like clutch drag, i.e. clutch not fully disengaging. Likely culprits could be faulty clutch pressure plate or release bearing / slave cylinder, or possibly master cylinder. There's no synchromesh on 1st or reverse, hence you can't get it into gear with the engine running - the gearbox input shaft is turning when declutched and it doesn't like it. Not sure about the other problem, is it normal engine noise but louder, or something abnormal?

Before attempting the shockers, have a good read of the various threads about removing front struts... it can be a job and a half, the top nuts are usually rusted solid and the hub pinch bolts are prone to shearing.

Pretty easy, jack the back a high as you can and support on stands. Remove the bolt from the bottom of the shock absorber and lever the trailing arm down until the spring is slack, remove the spring. The bottom rubber simply pulls off the centre stub. Replace the rubber and the spring, taking car that both are aligned with the stop on the seat and lower the car's weight back onto the spring. Bolt the shocker back onto the hub and tighten. Welcome to the forum! <_<

Actually, you shouldn't need a balljoint splitter - the bottom balljoints are fastened to the bottom arms with capheads (decent allen keys or drive bits required) and it's easiest to undo those and split the balljoint from the bottom arm. As for a trolley jack, you will need to jack up the engine as well as lower the gearbox down, so two jacks are handy. You can drop the engine onto a stand, but the second jack helps if you need to move the engine about a bit when taking the 'box off. The higher lift the better, but you can pack the gap up a bit, of course. The best tip I can give is to let someone else do it, especially when it's this cold outside... Brrrr! <_<

Don't knock the steering arm off the hub casting! <_< I've seen it done!

A whack with the hammer usually works, but you can't beat a good balljoint splitter when you get one that's stuck fast. ;)

Ball joint splitter, and you might need some heat to remove the old ones.

Have you checked the springs? Are they complete and intact? Pay particular attention to the very top coil where it sits in the shocker top seat, as these can snap off. If the car is pitching excessively, the shockers could also be worn.

There are no particular difficulties removing the gearbox from the Galaxy, but this job on any front wheel drive car is not for the faint hearted... especially laid on your back on the driveway, under the car on axle stands. It's much easier, quicker and safer on a proper ramp with some support facilities. An assistant is essential. Basically it's a matter of removing parts for access, supporting the engine, removing the gearbox mounting, splitting both bottom ball joints to allow removal of the driveshafts, then disconnecting all cables, wiring and any other obstacles before removal of the gearbox. There is just enough room to remove the gearbox by rotating it before drawing it off the engine and dropping it out of the bottom of the car. It sounds simple enough, but there's a fair bit of work involved. A clutch aligmnent tool is required to replace the clutch, either purchased or improvised, and if you dare doing it on the driveway, large axle stands and a couple of trolley jacks.