sparky Paul

Just search that well known auction site for "vag-com usb", select the 'buy it now' tab, and order by cheapest plus P&P. The cheapest are from HK/China, you should find one in the UK for a few more quid. Note that VAG-COM will work with all the VW components on the car, that excludes the engine which is a Ford unit on 2.0 and 2.3 models. To read engine codes and live data, you will need an ELM327 based OBD2 cable, again check out fleabay.

Welcome to the forum! :) There's lots of useful information like this in the FAQ Section, it's always worth checking out for the more common problems which arise. You will find the remote key fob procedure already listed, number 7 on the list, as well as the PATS immobiliser programming procedure, number 10 on the list.

The external thermostat fitted to 98-on 2.3 engines is a metal tee piece in the top radiator hose. In theory, the 2.0 shouldn't have the external thermostat... not impossible though, I guess. To help identify if it is a thermostat, there are some pics of the 2.3 thermostat and further info in this thread... http://www.fordgalax...showtopic=13563 If the object you refer to is actually attached to the head and has the two sensors below, then Chris is right that it is the thermostat housing... which makes more sense. You should be able to obtain one from the dealer without any problem.

The fixing on the door pillar is a plug and socket, the convoluted rubber gaiter can be removed once the plug is disconnected. It's usually easier to repair the wiring in situ, the fractured wires will be behind the plug, inside the gaiter. IIRC it isn't a straightforward job to remove the loom from the door completely, without some significant disassembly.

5W-30 engine oil should be used, but in an emergency, any reasonable quality engine oil is better than nothing. Not sure what they meant by 'special oil', the correct grade is 5W-30 regardless.

Sounds about right on charge... it's worth checking again after a long run, make sure there's no overcharging when the battery is full up. Not knowing what the intended external wiring should be to the new alternator, it's hard to say what might go wrong. However, if it appears to be working, and there's no evidence of overcharging, it could well be fine. If you do see the charging voltage go over 14.7V or so, you've got problems.

If your compression figures are right, sounds like head gasket gone between 3 & 4.

I presume it is the bendix gear on the starter that is being chewed up. If this has only started after the gearbox was fitted, my first suspicion would be that someone damaged the starter ring gear on the flywheel during the work. It's not going to be easy to confirm, but you may be able to see the damage if you remove the starter motor and examine the ring gear carefully. You will need a torch or lead lamp and a mirror, position yourself so you can see the surface of the gear whilst someone slowly turns the crank with a spanner or ratchet on the bottom pulley. If that proves inconclusive, then the only other option I can think of is to split the gearbox from the engine again and examine it more carefully.

First things first, you need to get yourself a VAG-COM interface cable and software to read any codes from the gearbox, or find a friend with one. :wacko: You also need to ensure that the fluid level in the gearbox is correct, this is critical and can cause all sorts of problems... and preferably fix the leak. You will need the VAG-COM to do the fluid level correctly.

Yes, the bolt is a stretch bolt, they are designed for one use only and must be replaced. An area of the bolt actually stretched during tightening, reducing in diameter slightly. If the bolt is reused, this pre-stretched bolt will not hold the same torque if applied again. It will also be weakened and could subsequently loosen or even fracture.

I wouldn't worry about age, but once it's opened it starts to absorb moisture and deteriorates. It may be okay, but I would prefer using an unopened bottle. The Carlube stuff should be fine if it's the correct specification.

OBDII will only access engine related DTCs and data on the Galaxy/Sharan, it's not able to access DTCs or data from any other modules - there is no alternative to VAG-COM for ABS, gearbox, airbags, etc.. Likewise, VAG-COM is unable to access the Ford engines in the Galaxy, and you have to use OBDII or Ford's WDS. That said, the OBDII interface is a very useful tool for engine diagnostics, and of course works with virtually all vehicles of that era.

The alternator will not charge the battery unless the charge warning light is connected. The warning light circuit provides a voltage reference to the regulator which provides rotor winding excitation. I do agree with the other posters though, you would be far better off with the right alternator.

Forgive me for butting in, but it's an oldish thread and I'm not sure if traff will be about. Removing the balljoint bolts disconnects it from the bottom arm, so it then does not need to be split. Once disconnected, the strut is free to swing about, allowing you to remove the driveshaft easily... the track rod and droplink can remain attached, fiddle with the steering if the track rod is restricting movement of the hub. Apparently, if you jack the car so the suspension is at full extension, and apply full lock, there's just enough movement on the driveshaft to allow you to pull it out of the hub end without splitting the bottom balljoint. I haven't tried this, but another member on here say they have successfully removed driveshafts this way. Of course, you still have to remove the driveshaft end bolt, and these must be renewed upon reassembly.

I can't really help much with a mk.III, but it doesn't seem to have lasted very long to me. You might have a better chance posting this in the mk.III section, but I can't see many owners having to have a regas at that age without some sort of mechanical failure. The only advice I can offer is the usual thing with aircon, make sure you run the system regularly, even in winter, this distributes oil around the system minimising gas losses past seals.

Bugger... that'll teach me to go wandering around the forum not paying full attention. :) That said, it could be a similar issue on the mk.III... I've seen the same problem with other vehicles, and more cars are fitted with aerial amps these days. It could be worth looking to see if an adaptor cable is available for the newer Fords. Sorry about the confusion. :D

IIRC, driveshaft to auto gearbox flange bolts are spline head. Torque to 59 ft lbf (80Nm). The driveshaft to hub end bolts are normal hex head. However, you must use stretch (yielding) bolts, and they must be renewed on reassembly... new driveshafts, CV joints and wheel bearing sets often come complete with new bolts, I obtained some from the dealer when I needed them. Torque to 111 ft lbf (150 Nm), then angle tighten a further 90°

I notice this old thread had been ressurrected recently, and thought I would have a read through. I notice that a problem was mentioned some time ago regarding radio reception on aftermarket units... If anyone has this issue, the problem is that the antenna at the rear of the car has a signal amplifier which requires a power feed to it via the antenna lead, and aftermarket units do not provide this. FM reception is reduced, and MW is almost non existant. However, if you fit a VW Sharan (also other VW models) ISO to ISO cable adaptor lead to the end of the vehicles radio wiring connector, it feeds the necessary power to the antenna and MW function is restored. :)

Another vote for diesel, best interior spec you can find. 2.3 is nice to drive, but mid to high 20s mpg knocking about, 30mpg if you are very feather footed. 35mpg is the norm on a run. The best I've ever achieved is about 38mpg on a very steady, careful drive... but nudge the speed much over 70mph and mpg suffers badly. Diesel will easily do 40mpg plus without trying, more on a run. Official figures say approx. 50% more mpg out of the diesel over the 2.3 petrol, so as a rough guide you would expect to use 2/3 the fuel in the diesel.

If you have a search of the forum, you should be able to find quite a few threads regarding problems with the auto box. The main reason for this is that the VW automatic 'box fitted to the Galaxy is prone to failure, and a full overhaul at an auto gearbox specialist is not cheap. Because of these factors, good secondhand units are not easy to find, and invariably expensive. Unfortunately, remedial work is usually limited to replacing the gearbox fluid, there is some information regarding the procedure for this in the FAQ section. Some members have found problems with the wiring to the gearbox, and also problems with the ECU, these are also worth looking into... If fluid levels are okay, the next step should be to connect the car up to VAG-COM to see what's going on in the gearbox ECU.

From the symptoms you describe, my first guess would be that it's overcharged with gas. Double check with whoever did the work that it hasn't been charged with the quantity for the double A/C system. On the manual A/C system, the indicator on the switch will illuminate regardless of whether it's working or not. Faulty pressure switch, pump clutch or associated wiring is also possibility.

Welcome to the forum! :) Are you absolutely sure it's the motor? The most common problem with the front wipers is the wiper post shafts seizing. Watch the wiper assembly as the wipers are working. If you can see the main support arms that go out to the wiper posts flexing as the wipers change direction, that's a sure sign that you have this problem. There's some information regarding fixing this in the FAQ section, link number 45. If it is the motor, you may be able to find one secondhand. If you find that they only want to sell you the linkage complete, they are expensive as they are prone to failure.

The black lump hanging down in front of the offside wheel is the receiver/dryer. The port is directly above this, below the offside indicator - which you have to remove for access.

If it's the passenger footwell, there's a joint in the rear wash wipe pipe that runs inside the trim at the bottom of the door and it is common for this joint to come apart. Number 5 on the FAQ list.

It would be difficult, the joint needs a pretty firm thump to disengage the circlip which holds it on. With the weight of the strut and hub attached, I don't think this would be easy, and you would risk damaging the wheel bearing. As you would have to disconnect the bottom ball joint anyway to split the joint from the driveshaft, it's not much more of a job to remove the driveshaft bolt and pull the driveshaft from the hub too. Remember to use a new driveshaft bolt on reassembly as they should not be reused.