sparky Paul

The errors logged can be highly specific, but on occasions can be misleading and faulty wiring can produce unexpected faults... it is worth checking the wiring. It might also be worth comparing the airgap between the sensor and the reluctor ring on the NSF and OSF, to make sure they are similar, to confirm that the new parts are correct, and correctly fitted. Physically swapping the sensor left to right will prove that the new sensor pickup is functioning correctly. I almost suggested swapping the connections at the ECU but I'm not sure if it's possible. If it is, it would certainly give you some very helpful info... failure of the Ate-Teves ABS ECU are certainly not unheard of in VW circles. Main symptoms of ECU failure seem to be sensor faults, 'pump out of tolerance' fault, and erratic speedo.

The most common 12-point drive bits are the 'spline' type, drive bit sets are available from most motor factors in the UK.

If the problem occured after a bout of full lock, my guess would be wiring under the wheelarch too. It's worth making a good visual inspection of the wiring, particularly around the socket in the wheelarch as serviceforce suggests. If the wiring insulation is split, the resistance of the sensor may still be measured at the ECM unit, however the signal could be being partially grounded to the car chassis. Make sure the wiring is checked carefully around the socket, particularly inside the rubber strain relief. NSF and OSF sensors can be interchanged to prove a faulty (or working) sensor. This may seem a silly suggestion, but has the car been driven on the road since the work was done? An ABS fault will only clear itself when the car is driven over 20mph. Also, is there any particular reason why the whole CV joint has been changed? The CV reluctor ring for the ABS is available separately and can be easily changed without swapping the complete CV joint. Another silly question, but are you certain that the replacement joint came with the ring fitted?

I was in the same boat with my '99 Zetec... made even more confusing by the fact that the previous owner had had a new key cut by Ford, and they had supplied a remote type. Remote locking on the Zetec originally came as a very cheap option bundled with a boot load cover. It's not as easy as just adding a key, there is some hardware missing. I would imagine it would be technically possible to source and replace the missing bits, then the car would probably have to be connected the the Ford diagnostic equipment to enable the facility. I went for an aftermarket solution, much cheaper and works perfectly.

Yes, what a shame. As cyborg says, gearbox oil level is not straightforward to check, but you would think adding oil would have made some difference. The Galaxys do have their weak points which are evident in the common faults described on the forum, but overall they are pretty robust - particularly the engines and manual gearboxes. Sadly, the VW auto units seem particularly weak and prone to failure.

MOT tester sounds a bit nit-picky! Usual failure is deterioration of the reflector, or clouding of the front if polycarbonate. Position lamps are the parking, or side lights, make sure the bulb is not clouded, of the correct wattage and positioned correctly in the headlamp. IIRC, in the unlikely event you need a replacement, you can get the Halogen type for around £70

Depends on tyre size. All RF/XL tyres have a load index 2-4 higher than the standard tyre rating for a given tyre size. For example, if a standard tyre in a particular size is 85 rated, a RF tyre of the same size should be 89 rated. In 215/55R16, all standard tyes are 93 rated, RF/XL are 95-97.

Yes, you shouldn't see much, if anything coming out of the top pipe.

Did you change the seal behind the thermostat too? Sometimes it disintegrates... Cooling system will push out any airlocks, it's pretty good in that respect. Any other strange symptoms? Any bubbling into the expansion bottle, pressurising of the cooling system, or anything else peculiar?

If you are doubting the gauge reading, it is possible for your garage to plug a code reader into the diagnostic socket and read the engine coolant temperature from the other sensor to compare. Personally, as the temperature gauge rises to 'normal' as the engine temperature rises, I would guess that the gauge is correctly reporting a drop in engine temperature when you drive about. Did you change the thermostat?

Temp. gauge works from bottom sender alone, other one is solely for the engine management - they are completely independant. Looking from the front of the engine, the coolant temperature sensor is at the rear of the thermostat housing near the top, the connector points towards the bulkhead. It could be obscured by pipework and/or wiring, you might have to have a feel around. The sensor on the underside of the thermostat housing is the temperature gauge sender, the connector points out towards the gearbox.

There are two coolant temperature sensors, on the petrol models both are located on the thermostat housing. The bottom one is the temperature gauge sender, and the top one is the engine management system coolant temperature sensor (ETC sensor). Problem still not resolved?

CV (constant velocity) joints are the universal joints on the driveshafts which allow the wheels to move in all directions whilst still transferring power from the gearbox. The outer CV joint is immediately behind the centre of the wheel hub, and is a MOT testable item - so any leakage of grease from the rubber boot would need attending to anyway. I can't say I've ever experienced the symptoms you describe from a dry CV joint, but it's certainly a tip worth bearing in mind in future. Clicking noises on full lock is the more common symptom of a dry (or worn) CV joint, try circles on full lock around a car park. Did they actually check the balance of both rear wheels?

No problem. Being armed with a bit of info can help a great deal when dealing with garages. ;)

I think we cross-posted, thermostat location is as described above in post #14.;) If you start the engine from stone cold, you can check the thermostat by feeling the temperature of the top radiator hose. It should not get warm until the engine reaches operating temperature. If it does, the thermostat is passing. It's not a difficult job, you need the correct torx bit or driver to undo the housing, and be prepared to catch any coolant that runs out. Remove the items from the housing carefully, take note how everything fits... make sure everything goes back in the same position, and with the thermostat facing the right way.You will probably lose some coolant, so you will need to top up afterwards, and make sure you obtain a complete thermostat kit with the seals, not just an insert.

I'm not exactly sure where the coil pack is on the 2 litre, but I think you're in the right area. It's located on the end of the cylinder head at the gearbox end. Just follow the top radiator hose to a black plastic housing bolted to the head with three torx bolts - the thermostat is inside there, held in with a spring clip. IIRC there's a seal on the housing, and a seal under the thermostat.

The symptoms you describe are classic thermostat stuck open... or even missing, which is sometimes done to disguise a coolant leak. Not enough heat is being retained in the engine block, and in this weather, the radiator is the obvious exit point. Thermostat should shut this flow off when engine temperature is low.

Ah, that's a genuine Ross-Tech cable and works with the full version of VCDS. Mine cost

A blocked heater matrix can be difficult to clean out, and there's a fair bit of work removing it from the car. Is the front heater working properly? If it is, the heater matrix is not blocked - and there's two heater matrixes on the Galaxy anyway, so the chances of them both being blocked are slim. In any case, any blockages in the cooling system would tend to force engine temperature up, not down. I would insist that he changes the thermostat and rubber seal. Deterioration of the thermostat seal is not uncommon, and can cause the same symptoms as a stuck open thermostat. Any fault with the thermostat or seal is often obvious once the old one is removed and inspected. I find it odd that he's so reluctant to change the thermostat, it only takes a few minutes and the insert type fitted to the 2 litre petrol is only a few quid - It makes sense to change it regardless, if only to rule it out as a cause of the problems.

Welcome to the forum! ;) Wobbles felt through the seat, or back of your legs, is almost always related to the back axle. Possibly rear wheels need balancing, but that 'wobble' normally occurs at a slightly higher speed - worth checking though as it's a cheap fix. Could also be a damaged wheel rim, faulty tyre or damaged stub axle.

If the engine is running cold, yes.

Could still be the thermostat passing... even with the cardboard, this weather could be pushing some very cold air through to the rad. If the temp. gauge rises up as the engine warms up, I would guess the sender is working correctly.

I can't remember anything else stamped into the old type thermostat, but if it's any help, the VW part number on the new thermostat is 7M5 121 115, and it has the VW logo on it. Ford part no is 1125023. It's worth noting that the standard thermostat housing is still present on models fitted with this external thermostat, but there is nothing fitted in it.

Great post, looks like one for the FAQ section to me.:lol:

You're certainly not on your own with auction failures. OH is currently driving around in a Clio from auction, I wish I had never seen the damn thing... it's been the bane of my life for the last 20-odd months. I still don't think