sparky Paul

There's some more information in the FAQ section. 45. unseizing wiper mechanism in pictures For reference, yours will be the three bolt fixing type.

Yes, the problem hasn't come back, so I'm sure it's now fixed. What I would do is get the torch and have a good look at the ABS rings and the sensor gaps, you might be able to pick out the bad one.

The temperature sensors are on the plastic thermostat housing at the end of the cylinder head, gearbox end - the one below is for the temperature gauge, and the one at the rear is for the ECU. Also make sure you check that the idle control valve hasn't stuck open, situated on the top of the inlet manifold. You can clean it out with carb cleaner, or a bit of petrol.

Tyres for the mkI and mkII Galaxy (1995-2006 models) must have a load index of 94 or higher. For the most common Galaxy tyre size of 215/55R16, this means you must fit reinforced (RF) or extra load (XL).

Tailgate gaiter wiring is a common problem, as cyborg says... also check brake light switch. Both have been covered previously in some detail, you should find something with the forum search function.

After a bit more research, the way I read the info on the link to the MOT tester's manual below, the normal car limits apply to the Galaxy... the other stuff only applies to goods vehicles, minibuses, etc.. http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_410.htm The other relevant bit about the remaining 25% of the tread... I believe the 'visible tread' rule was relaxed relatively recently.

No problem with genuine Mintex, they are good quality brake parts in my experience. I fitted Mintex front discs and pads almost 70,000 miles ago... pads have been replaced, but the discs are still wearing flat and even.

The visible tread rule only applies to any vehicle with a gross vehicle weight (GVW) or gross train weight (GTW) over 3500kgs or a motorcycle above 50cc. http://www.etyres.co.uk/uk-tyre-law Now I've gone and typed that, I'm not so sure. Does the Galaxy fall foul of the maximum GTW rule meaning it is classed as a minibus, i.e. 1mm minimum over any 75%, and a visible pattern on the rest? Confused myself now...:( I agree with Mirez, sounds like insufficient tyre load rating, or running under pressure. Never had any problems with the Galaxy wearing tyres unevenly.

As marcostig says above above, there must be a minimum of 1.6mm across the central 75% of the tyre. Contrary to popular belief, there does not need to be a visible tread pattern on the rest of the tyre, but no plys must be exposed.

You need the correct insert for the key, you can often find them on ebay. Make sure the details on the key, particularly the manufacturer and frequency, match your old one. Out of interest, what trim level is your car? The only reason I ask is that my car came supplied with a remote key, however the car does not have remote locking. It was an option on Zetec, and came together with a fitted load area cover - neither of which my car has. This caused some confusion, not least for the dealer I bought it from - they bought a new remote from the Ford dealer, which of course didn't work either. I can vaguely remember a similar response from my car when I attempted to program a remote to it... it went through the motions, but didn't receive the signal from the remote. I presume the original key had been replaced at some point, and the dealer had supplied a remote key in error.

Problem not fixed. :) Although I tried everything, I couldn't make the problem resurface yesterday. However, it did it again today, first touch of the brakes. Anyway, bearing in mind the info from the Audi forum, I had a feel around the sensor. Sure enough, there was a fingernail gap between the sensor shoulder and the hub, and the sensor gap did look a bit wide... took the sensor out, and removed about 1mm thickness of rust scale from the hub, gave the hole another clean and refitted the sensor. Now it's seated properly, it's much closer to the reluctor ring, and the problem seems to be gone... hopefully, this time for good.

Possibly reverse switch on gearbox, or broken wires in the tailgate wiring gaiter.

Sounds promising, good to hear. :)

Of course you are absolutely correct Chris, I was having a brainstorm... The relay is marked 30 and is in position 27, as you say. For some reason I had it the other way round in my head. :)

As said above, your problem is almost certainly main power relay, or possibly fuel pump relay. Ignore the handbook, read the FAQs linked to above. FWIW, there were major changes to the electrical systems for late '98-onwards vehicles, the electrics on these are very similar to the mk.II cars. Your main power relay will probably be marked 27.

Problem fixed. ;) Connected VAG-COM, although ABS light out, fault was still recorded - "Front right sensor - signal outside specifications - Intermittant", or something similar. Reset fault codes, and this didn't come back after driving, so I guess it was a residual from the original problem. More importantly, buzzing/growling has stopped. Just had a bit of a google, found something interesting on an Audi forum. It says you can get this symptom if the air gap is too large between a sensor and the reluctor ring, so that might be something the OP needs to look at. As Chris says, VAG-COM is the first port of call.

By strange coincidence, I have the very same problem. I changed a front ABS ring and sensor today, ABS light went out as expected and all seemed well... however, the car has developed the same issue described above. When braking, there is sometimes a buzzing/growling for a second or two just as the car comes to a stop, together with a the sound of a something whirring. I can feel the buzzing through the brake pedal, and I can hear it coming from the N/S area around the ABS pump. I'm guessing the ABS pump is doing something peculiar. The feel through the pedal is not the normal ABS judder, much lighter and faster - more of a buzz. Braking doesn't seem to be affected, and ABS light stays off. I'll connect VAG-COM and see if I can see anything on there, but any ideas would be gratefully received...

I might be tempted to leave the car out as bait for a few nights, sit in wait, then jump on the **** when he puts the key in the lock! Seriously, as Mirez says, it's tricky. You can get the unique key removed from the immobiliser system with a visit to the dealer, who will of course be able to supply another unique key. It won't stop them getting in the car by unlocking it with the stolen key, but it will prevent it from starting. To prevent entry to the car, you need a complete set of lock barrels and new keys, which would have to be programmed to the PATS immobiliser.

welcome to the forum! :) P0135 is related to the lambda sensor heater circuit, current is outside expected parameters. Check that the connections are clean, the voltages involved are low and a good connection is critical. Also check for any broken or chafed wiring in the loom to the sensor, and check to see if you have any blown fuses affecting the supply to the sensor.

There's an excellent guide with pics here... http://www.fordgalax...48 You should change the pads when you change the discs, regardless of how little they have worn. If you don't then you will encourage the new discs to wear unevenly. If the pads were good they used to re-face them, that is to dress the friction material so it is again flat and parallel to the back. This is also acceptable, but nobody bothers now as the cost of new pads is reasonable, and cheaper in most cases than re-facing.

You can check the official service schedules for your Galaxy here... http://www.etis.ford...ScheduleForm.do If it's been main dealer serviced and stamped up, you should be able to work out where you are in the schedule and take up where they left off. If you are unsure what services the car has had, I would start with a major service, such as is listed for 80,000m. Any change in the car's performance, change in driving patterns, or any work done on the car recently? I noticed a modest but definite drop in MPG when I fitted an aftermarket exhaust - with a corresponding increase in power. What sort of MPG do you estimate you are getting?

The central locking is operated by the two buttons on the actual key. Are you sure the car has got remote locking?

I haven't welded this car, but I know the area you mean, I jack there too. It's probably within 30cm of a front subframe mount, so may need welding for MOT, depending how bad it is and how particular the tester is. That said, it should be very straightforward to plate the bottom of the box section if necessary. One of the problems with trolley jacks at that point is that the round jack cup damages the underseal, allowing corrosion to get a hold. I use a hard rubber pad between the jack and the car to minimise this.

Welcome to the forum! :wacko: You might get a better response in the mk.III section. Mk.III Technical Section

As seatkid replied in your previous thread, you should have more luck asking in the mk.III section - this section is for the older 95-06 model which is a completely different car. http://www.fordgalax...showtopic=22897 Mk.III Technical Section It might have even been covered before, but I would think the front pads & discs would be pretty straightforward.