sparky Paul

AFAIK, the cold start sensing is derived from the coolant temperature sensor which feeds back to the ECU. The only way I know to test is to connect EOBD scanner to the diagnostic port and read the temperature, the only other option is to substitute a new sensor. It's also worth checking that the Idle Control Valve is not sticking, this is bolted to the top of the inlet manifold... if necessary, you can trying cleaning out with a bit of petrol - a replacement valve isn't cheap.

I would have thought the caliper mounting bracket and new guide pins should be available separately, but Willie Krashitt is your man for availability and Ford part numbers. That said, you should be able to free the old one off. Remove the bracket and get it into a vice if possible, with the pins pointing upwards. Peel back the rubber gaiter, and flood with penetrating oil... you may need to leave it for half an hour or so, and repeat several times. Keep trying to wiggle the pin with a ring spanner inbetween oilings, you may need to give the spanner a small tap each way at first but try not to rush it - give the penetrating oil chance to work, it should come out eventually. Once the rubbers are detached, the pins should come out - they should rotate freely and there's nothing retaining them, so there's nothing to break only the pin itself. I did a front caliper on another car a few months ago which had one pin siezed. It was absolutely solid, and even I was doubtful... but it eventually came out using the method above. As a last resort, you could apply a bit of heat to the bracket, but this is obviously not going to do the rubbers any favours. Once you get the pins out, make sure the pin and the bore are as clean as possible, before greasing liberally and reassembling. Hope this helps!

What a pig of a job when they are rusted solid. I ended up using a small gas cutting torch to blow through the top mounts - they were so rotten they had holes in, and had to be replaced anyway. It is possible to cut the lip off the top mounts with a cutting disc in a small angle grinder, jacking the strut back up into the suspension turret just gives you enough clearance - but you have to take care not to damage the turrets. With the lip removed from the top mount, it just passes through the hole in the turret, and you can tackle the rest of the job on the bench. If you are scrapping the front shockers, it makes life a whole lot easier - mole grips, or better still, stillsons on the strut shaft are the way to go. From memory, I think the nut is 21mm - I found a 21mm spark plug socket in the toolbox with 24mm flats on it... so that, a 24mm spanner and a 7mm allen key down the middle worked for me to replace the (new) top mounts.

mikej is right, if you swap the coils and the problem moves with it, it's pretty conclusive evidence that the coil is kaput. These coils are prone to failure, but it would normally affect two cylinders as you suspect - however, the plug below the coil relies on a spring contact and that can give trouble. If the problem stays on the same cylinder, then possible culprits could be a partially blocked injector, faulty injector wiring, or a compression issue. A compression test should tell you if there is a valve or bore problem.

Not tried it on Win 7, but I guess you should still be able to change the com port in the driver properties. Find the driver in Control Panel - System - Hardware - Device Manager (or equivalent in Win 7), the USB Serial Port driver should be listed under Ports (COM & LPT). Right click on the driver and select [Properties], select the [Port Settings] tab and click on [Advanced] - there should be an option to change the COM port there.

A common problem causing intermittant starting is the main power relay, relay 30/27. Check the FAQs for more information... http://www.fordgalax...indpost&p=68423

Are you sure about that 195/60 R16 tyre size? It's not a standard fit tyre, and reinforced tyres in this size are only 91 rated. Tyres need to be 95 rated or better.

Good to hear it's sorted! :) As ACD says, wobble through the steering around 60-70mph is very likely to be an out of balance front wheel. Any decent tyre fitting depot should be able to check your balancing, without you having to part with too much cash. If the steering wheel wheel only wobbles under braking, then warped brake discs is favourite.

It all depends on the tyre size fitted. As you have 215/55R16 fitted, I guess your car is still fitted with it's original wheels and tyres... I would go with the figures stated on the door or petrol flap sticker, or in your owner's manual.

More precisely, does the vibration change as you actually apply power or lift off the throttle? That could point towards a gearbox problem, or possibly a driveshaft... if the throttle has no effect, I would be looking more at the hub components, road wheels and suspension. Not sure if this has already been asked, but are you feeling vibration through the steering, or is it coming through the car body? Front balance issues tends to show themselves around 60-70mph, but rear balance problems show at higher speeds - and they are normally felt through the car body.

Does the vibration alter when accelerating and/or braking?

Driveshaft failures are rare on the mk.1 cars, but for some reason, the later cars seem to suffer from a few failures. If the noise is distinctly coming from the nearside front, I would say gearbox is unlikely...much more likely is wheel bearing or driveshaft. Bad bearings can be difficult to diagnose on the front with the drivetrain attached, and as gordon says, the usual problem with modern front wheel bearings (dual race angular contact) is noise - play is often not evident.

Déjà vu... http://www.fordgalax...showtopic=21048 Take note of the bit I added at the end, the diagram shown from TIS is incorrect. Hey, add attachments is working again! Try this...

Glad you got it sorted out, fingers crossed that's it. :( Thanks for the choc offer, as tempting as it is, there's really no need - we're all here to help each other out if we can. After all, the poster of the FAQ did all the hard work. Glad I could be of help.:wacko:

I wouldn't have though it would have been a hose, they sometimes get weak and swell, but I've never had one obstructed. I would be surprised if it was anything else other than the caliper. If it's getting warmer than the others, it's not releasing properly - i.e. it's sticking. If the caliper guide pins are free, then the piston must be extracted and the piston and bore checked for corrosion and/or wear.

Welcome to the forum! :( Presumably, your car is a 2001 on a Y plate, which is a mk.2 model. :wacko: You are thinking along the right lines, the problem you are describing is classic symptoms of a failing main power relay, and that would be my first port of call, once you have eliminated basic problems such as a bad battery or engine earth connection (check all earth straps and battery>starter>alternator cables). The relay you are looking for is behind the fuses, you have to partially dismantle the fusebox to access it. Have a good look at the following thread, it's very helpful... http://www.fordgalax...?showtopic=8810 According to the FAQ, the equivalent of relay 30 on mk.2 models is marked up relay 27. Hope this helps!

I would have to agree with BJ here, many members here are usually looking for DIY solutions, as far as is reasonably possible, including the OP. A lot of repairs to aircon systems can be performed by someone with reasonable competence. In most cases the discharging, gassing and to some extent leak detection would be entrusted to a specialist - whether that 'specialist' is a local aircon specialist, or KwikFit, is up to the individual. Whilst a proper aircon engineer is always going to be preferable, don't write KwikFit off completely - the regassing stations they use are very good, and so long as the correct vehicle is selected from the machine's database, they are pretty idiot-proof. All that is required is to show an interest and keep an eye on what they are doing, anyone who is not confident doing that, or doesn't fully understand the process, should really go to a specialist.

Well, it sounds like classic brake binding symptoms to me. The problem might not be manifesting itself before heavy and/or continuous use of the brakes. Personally, I would strip the pads out of the offending caliper, check the guide pins and piston, clean, regrease and refit. Running with a hot hub risks losing the grease from the wheel bearing, and subsequent bearing failure in future.

If the vacuum noises have now gone, another possibility for the erratic idle could be the Idle Control Valve sticking. It is located on the top of the plastic inlet manifold, fixed with two bolts. Unbolt, remove the wiring connector, then remove the valve and clean out with a bit of petrol. If that doesn't fix it completely, the only other option is to replace it. However, if cleaning makes no difference, the problem probably lies elsewhere.

As marinabrid says, the bits aren't available and most people make a makeshift repair of some sort. Alternatively, you could look on fleabay for a secondhand wiper assembly for replacement, or donor parts. Your car should have the early wiper assembly with four mounting holes, which is easier to find secondhand - a quick check shows several selling for

it looks like to me the sat has gone but i didn't know the coolant could run around it ive not done much on thermo stats since my RS2000 Mk2 days What Chris is referring to is leakage around the rubber gasket between the thermostat insert and the thermostat housing. This arrangement is only fitted to the early 2.3i Galaxys, it was replaced on 98-on cars by an external thermostat to correct some issue with the cooling. To confuse matters, your 1998 car may have either arrangement, and you will need to determine which it is. The thermostat housing on 98-on 2.3i engines is empty. On 98-on cars, the thermostat is the lump with three pipes attached to it, on the pipework between the original thermostat housing and the radiator. If you need one, they are (unfortunately) around

Yes, condensor leak is favourite spot on the mk.2 - there's a cap over the leakage point which hides the dye. There's a very useful thread on here somewhere with pics.

Tried to upload a pic for you, but keep getting 'This upload failed' :P

This had me scratching my head a few years ago, the picture above is from Ford TIS, and it is wrong. The belt goes around the outside of the power steering pump, and inside the top idler, everything else it correct. You will probably find that the belt you have will then fit. :P