sanjsanj

disconnect the MAF and see if there's any difference while driving.

so I was randomly passing through after god knows how many years and saw this. Happy Belated Birthday Nik! Hope you're keeping well :lol:

maybe try moving the gear lever slowly a few cm before and after the R notch and see if it engages there? Are the reversing lights working?

had same problem - changed the brake light switch, problem still there. In the end, changed relay 109, VAG part number 357906381A which sorted the problem.

problems with the MAF shouldn't make a whine...

IIRC, the glowplugs don't stay on after the engine has started with this engine

thats what i thought! anyway, it could be the brake light switch... very common weak point. failure of mine caused both my brake lights to fuse as the same time :s

sounds like it only happens on a cold engine- try driving it without the MAF connected.

i've looked around but I can't find torque graphs of any petrol engine with and without a turbo, can someone please help me? I need two graphs, one which shows the torque output of an engine without a turbo, and one which shows the torque output of the same engine (or similar in terms of size, manufacturer etc as i am desperate) with a turbo. mods, i don't know if this is the right section but please can you leave it here as this is the most read section, and i am extremely desperate (you can move it after a couple of days if need be). Thank you.

does the same happen in neutral?

hmm, if this were true, surely he would hold his hands up and say it's my fault for the misdiagnosis, i'll fix it for free??? First things first, have the fault codes been read?

Can someone explain why the vast number of electrical sensors combined with an ECU make better engines than the old carburettor systems? How does it lower fuel consumption and emissions?

i'm sure dealers have to give you a three month warranty for free here, isn't this the case in belfast as well?

open the tailgate and look at the top right hand side. Remove the black piece of plastic from the top and inspect for broken wires. Very susceptible to breaking so well worth a check.

if you put the accelerator flat to the floor, it'll think you're trying to kickdown and change down a gear, or stay in that gear as long as possible.

if it's the left hand side fused, switch the engine on, and turn the steering wheel to the right. If RHS, then do the opposite. Now look at the wheel arch, you should see a flap which gives you access to the main headlight bulb. Beware, you might scratch your knuckles, space is limited so try someone with small hands.

Something thats resistance varies according to its temperature. Higher temperatures releases more electrons in the sensor, reducing resistance. Lower temperatures reduces the amount of mobile electrons, increasing its resistance.

why have they designed it to take it's combustion air from the cabin? isn't there enough air underneath the car? :rolleyes:

IIRC, all mk2's have PD engines...

nope, you're quite right rusty- cc is on the other side.

why not start it, stand outside and video it?

get a mallet and make it bigger then! :lol::16::lol::16::16:

are you sure the booster heater wasn't working? the outside temp sensor is different to the sensor used by the booster heater. It could be that the outside air temp sensor thinks it's 10.5degrees whereas the booster heater temp sensor thinks its 9 degrees and so would have turned on. differrent sensors have different sensitivity!

Review of 2007: http://news.bbc.co.uk/player/nol/newsid_71...315&bbcws=1

how about this :D http://www.metacafe.com/watch/501379/remov...with_airduster/