sepulchrave

You're going to PX the car because it needs a new water pump and you can't find the thermostat (which will probably be fine BTW)? This seems like a disproportionately expensive response to a small and common problem. Just take it to the garage and get a new water pump fitted. And try breathing slowly and evenly!

I found it easiest to drop the fan assembly out through the bottom. :D You need the car on ramps really to give adequate clearance and also for if you need to remove the undertray.

I apologise, those leads are excellent. I just can't believe the price! Hats off to you robbeaumont, you have just found the de facto best buy for VR6 plug leads anywhere. In fact this thread should have glue applied. :D

Yes, those leads sound horrifically cheap and nasty. Hmmmm. ;)

The timing chain makes a ghastly racket for ages before it goes bang, so I doubt it's that. I bought my CPS from my local factors, it was an intermotor part and cost about

Bingo, now help yourself carl 'cos I'm done here. Byeee. ;)

Crank Position Sensor is the most likely candidate for this dead stop. Edit: The mechanic sounds like a chancer to me, I just bet the compression is fine.

You definitely have an immobiliser issue, if you put a temporary 12v feed to the solenoid and crank the engine you should get fuel after a while and it should definitely run, suggest you take it for a drag rather than flatten the battery to do this.

Sorry, but I got that your car is a '99 TDi, but if it's a PD engine then you ain't gonna have much luck finding the diesel pump and cut off valve! The fuel system is completely electronically controlled on PD lumps, have you checked the connections to the unit injectors and the multiplug to the head loom? If yours is a late non-PD engine then you're looking for a small solenoid on the fuel pump with a single wire connected to it, this energises when the ignition is switched on and allows fuel into the pump from the LP line. Check you have 12v at this connection.

Clutch slave cylinder seal failure is the most likely candidate, check for any fluid escape around the slave cylinder.

Does the engine tick over at a higher speed than when warm? If not then there is a problem with the cold start circuit somewhere. Actually I suspect the cold start circuit anyway since it is timed and not dependant on engine temperature once activated, the ECU only checks the temperature to decide whether to activate the cold start sequence or not, this is a feature of modern lean burn engines which can be difficult to start even when still warm. The lambda probe is not referenced until normal running is resumed so I doubt it's this.

Well that maybe what the service manager told you, but it wasn't the filter causing the problem, only the tech who fixed it would know what he did to fix it. :)

No, it isn't the fuel filter. If I had a fiver for every time some buffoon suggested changing the fuel filter as a solution to a problem I wouldn't have to work half as hard as I do. The fuel filter is a service item much like the oil filter or the air filter, it is designed to protect the delicate injection system from damage caused by possible particulate contamination in the fuel. In practice the fuel pumped in this country is pretty clean and the fuel filter doesn't have to do that much work, nevertheless it has a minimum service interval so that the manufacturer can guarantee the longevity of the fuel system in all the countries where the vehicle is sold or can be used. Your 1800 TDCi is a modern common rail diesel and as such has two fuel circuits, one low pressure mechanical (where the filter is situated) and a high pressure unit injection system which is electronically controlled by the ECU. Your fault sounds distinctly electronic to me, you'll need a diagnostic scan to find out exactly what is wrong.

A new coil pack is best since it's only a matter of time before you get more problems with the old one, you can fix it by 'cooking' it in a low oven then recoating the insulator in epoxy lacquer. A new one is only about

It's not vital, stop worrying. It's probably a bracket for a loom clip for a length of wiring on the back of the head somewhere, maybe a knock sensor or somesuch. Crap garage though, I wouldn't go back there if I were you. :lol:

It's just about the only part which will produce the symptoms you describe, I bought mine from a motor factors as well and it was an intermotor part which works just fine, my only concern is that you may have the wrong part, try checking with the factors for the part number for a 1996 VW Sharan VR6 Carat crank sensor and make sure yours is exactly the same part number. And stop calling it a Ford, 'cos it's not!

Check the looms either side of the multiplug in the door jamb for broken wires, this is a common fault.

Because they had absolutely no money at all and improvised to keep the car running?

I strongly suspect the crank sensor or the wiring to it. The engine is a VW VR6 engine and so is the crank sensor, what was fitted to it? Don't take it to Ford, they don't know what they're doing with them any more. Take the car to an independant VW specialist if you're clueless.

It'll be a wheel sensor, do a search this has been covered a billion times before.

/\ | | | Search Button :D

big kev means that your ECU has just logged a fault (hence the EPC light, Electronic Problem Code) and you'll need to read the fault memory using VAG-COM or somesuch to find out what is actually wrong.

Why? It'll only be the usual leaking pipe issue covered a trillion times before elsewhere in this forum.

I know it's difficult when English is your second language, but if you could try and expand your description of the fault(s) it would help us to help you better. :D

Are you sure there are no other broken wires? the conductor can easily fray or snap inside the insulation rendering a visual inspection useless, you have to bell 'em out to be sure.